Ignition problem: No voltage to starter solenoid

[martsink]

Hey guys,
A few hours ago I was trying to start my V8 swapped 986 for the first time, but the starter is not turning over. First let me give you a brief overview of what I'm working with.

I purchased my 986 as a shell with no motor, no ecu, immobilizer, ... I then got a matching ecu, key, and immobilizer from a salvage vehicle. The car now has a Chevy V8 in it, but its in no way connected to the ignition system. Yello Porsche ignition wire is still used to activate the starter solenoid.

When I turn the key over, the gauges and everything seems to work fine and I hear some relays switching. When it crank the key I hear the immobilizer clicking, but there is no sound from the starter relay in the rear trunk. Initially, I thought that I could just jump the relay, but that didn't work. When I check the terminal 30 voltage on the starter relay I get 0V. I thought the relay was hooked up directly to the battery positive, but I guess that's not the case?

Currently my car doesn't have the anti-theft ignition signal transducer that goes by the ignition cylinder, but I was told that it's not required.

Any ideas what this could be? I'm guessing it probably has something to do with the immobilizer...

Thanks

Vlad

[martsink]

I just pulled out the wiring diagrams to see what's going on. It seems like the yellow starter wire is directly hooked up to the battery through the ignition lock. Does this mean that if I jump the starter relay in the trunk and turn over the key the starter should work? And if it doesn't the ignition lock is bad?

What does the immobilizer do? Does it just control the signal to the starter relay?

I could be looking at this whole thing wrong. Any input?

[particlewave]

What I see is that starter power is straight to battery, but the starter solenoid is powered by the "start lock relay", which is powered by the DME.

It looks like the DME is receiving a signal from the CLU (diagnosis lead, AKA "W" lead). My best guess is that this is tied to the anti theft features, including the transponder. Maybe someone with more DME experience can chime in.

You should be able to bypass the start lock relay by jumping pins 3 & 5 (30 & 87 on the relay).

[martsink]

Originally Posted by particlewave

What I see is that starter power is straight to battery, but the starter solenoid is powered by the "start lock relay", which is powered by the DME.

It looks like the DME is receiving a signal from the CLU (diagnosis lead, AKA "W" lead). My best guess is that this is tied to the anti theft features, including the transponder. Maybe someone with more DME experience can chime in.

You should be able to bypass the start lock relay by jumping pins 3 & 5 (30 & 87 on the relay).

Thanks for the input. That's what I'm thinking. I tried jumping the relay today, but I didn't turn the ignition lock. I thought the yellow wire was already hot and the key just sent a signal to the DME. I'll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.

[martsink]

Jumping the relay worked. Does this mean there's something wrong w the immobilizer?

[particlewave]

I would think that it means that you do need the transponder pill and coil.