Replaced the coolant cap and orings on air bleeder but still get moisture
 

As the title says I'm still getting moisture on the trunk lid. When replacing the orings I could tell moisture was seeping by based on the crusty residue so I assumed with that I was good. What else can it be? My guess is that I need to replace the whole bleeder value. Any recommendations? Thanks everyone.

A simple pressure test done on system will point to where it is leaking...

I assume there is a tool to create pressure in the system beyond just running engine up to temperature? The moisture is pretty minimal. It's basically condensation on the trunk lid where it's moist to the touch.

I have just experienced the same exact thing last week. I was going to just replace the whole valve. I did read another thread where the problem was diagnosed as to the new o ring not properly seated. So I guess we can check the new o ring, replace the entire valve or do the pressure test? and go from there. Next question ....pressure test?

http://ww2.stant.com/repository/imag...et_testers.jpg

I used the cone adapter from my airlift with a basic air nozzle for blowing away dust and stuff. Set my compressor at 15 lbs and stuffed it in the filler opening. Using some soapy water with a brush, I immediately found the problem leak in my relief valve.

A test kit similar to this one can be borrowed for free at autozone.

On second thought. I think the one that I borrowed came from advance auto. Either place is likely to have it available to borrow for free. (Refundable deposit required)

I have an O'Reilly's by the house so I'll check them out. Thanks.