Why don't My Secondary Air Injection Components Look Like This?
 

My 2003 Boxster S Secondary Air Injection Components look nothing like this.

http://i59.tinypic.com/1076v11.gif

The area circled in red is of concern right now. I have a broken line and I have no idea where it goes to.

http://i61.tinypic.com/4g0mrt.jpg

Now where the canister is I have a + type plug that connects directly to the canister then the other three connections go off to other points. The connection I have circled in red is broken off from somewhere, but I don't know where it goes to.

HELP!

http://i61.tinypic.com/14doos5.jpg

Sorry the picture is so blurry. Had to use my daughters camera, that I don't know how to use lol. The batteries in my camera are dead.

Thanks!

See where mine broke on my 2001 Boxster, it's item #25 in the drawing you attached.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1425527393.jpg

The broken line goes a different direction. #25 on my car goes to the same unit, but it's located next to the throttle body. #26 goes to my plenum distribution T rubber coupler.

Daughter just got home and I have better pictures now.

http://i59.tinypic.com/wwlrsz.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/1zh1ag4.jpg

Looks more similar to a 996 secondary air injection setup at the canister.

http://rennlist.com/forums/attachmen...96-diagram.jpg

Automatic? Coolant shutoff valve solenoid feed, mounted up by the rear lifting eye?

Maybe because you have a tiptronic transmission. ;)

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1425550848.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1425550864.jpg

It seems to be pointing to something under the plenum on that side.

Ok, so that explains why it has the + vs the Y on part #21, but where does that tube go to?

This system changed a lot over the years. Make sure you know which version you have. A forum member posted the parts diagram for the 2003 and that's the only way I found it.

Got this off a Pelican vacuum hose write up.

air intake/vacuum line routing - Pelican Parts Technical BBS

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...mall/Pic07.jpg

It looks like it goes to E.

So where do I buy the vacuum line from?

When I replaced my engine that tubing was so brittle, that every time I replaced one section another would break. I ended up using generic flexible vacuum tubing (rubber hose) and connected it with a few pieces of the old tubing that still had some flex without breaking.
Replace it all while you are in there, or you may be back soon.

Thanks, found some on eBay. :cheers:

Man I can't see that Electronic vacuum solenoid valve at all. Please someone tell me I don't have to remove the Plenum. http://forums.pcpitstop.com/public/s...lt/worship.gif

http://i61.tinypic.com/1zh1ag4.jpg

the silver tube in the top left of the above pic travels into a sai fitting fastened to the engine on the top right of the pic. on the right side of that (ie, behind the vacuum tank in the forefront of the pic on the right side) the solenoid should be fastened to that fitting, as is shown in the pet below:

http://rennlist.com/forums/attachmen...96-diagram.jpg[/QUOTE]

+1 Excellent advice. Now, I just replace it all at once.

I can see the the hose from the sai fitting fastened to the engine on the top going to the Electronic vacuum solenoid valve, but the hose disappears before I see it connect into the Electronic vacuum solenoid valve.

Removing the canister I could probably see the Electronic vacuum solenoid valve.

You were right on where it attaches to. I actually have three of these Electronic vacuum solenoids valve on my car.

perhaps just remove the plenum and crossover tube for better access?

Crossover tubes are already out and the starter is out. The canister is blocking my view and reach to it. Removing the plenum would be a pain in the rear.


.

I had to attack it from the passenger compartment and remove the alternator... Not easy but I got there. I also loosened the plenum but did not remove it.

I have gotten better at removing and reinstalling the alternator since this job (I have done it a few times on my friends Boxsters). The trick is to spray the bracket interfaces with penetrating oil and then work the alternator up and down while applying upward pressure to get it off the bracket.

I ended up moving the canister and right there it was.

JOB DONE! :)