Anyone who's ever played with magnets knows this is complete BS. A magnet will only magnetize a ferrous metal for a limited amount of time.
You can use the damn magnet and just wait a while before you start the engine. :rolleyes:
Nothing is going to be permanently magnetized, drama queen. I missed; did you decide to quit posting on rennlist when you saw that no one cared if you stayed or went? What kind of narcissistic person posts something like that in the first place? That was a funny thread! Drama!

Been reading, interesting situation.

So I will throw this out for the heck of it.

You are able to get contact to the set screw with a small thin object and touch it, so how about build a cheap electromagnet?

Use some strong insulated wire and at one end attach two wires which go to the +/- of a battery?

Sort of like what we used to do in science class way back when :-)
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[QUOTE=tonichristi;432972]Anyone who's ever played with magnets knows this is complete BS. A magnet will only magnetize a ferrous metal for a limited amount of time.
You can use the damn magnet and just wait a while before you start the engine. :rolleyes:
Nothing is going to be permanently magnetized, drama queen. I missed; did you decide to quit posting on rennlist when you saw that no one cared if you stayed or went? What kind of narcissistic person posts something like that in the first place? That was a funny thread! Drama![/QUOTE]

This is your current status Newbie! Cease immediately! :mad:

^^^^ +1 ^^^^
Well said BY.

There's always one isn't there - no wonder people like Raby & JFPinPA turn their backs in disgust on crap like this........

If you can get the screw into the "almost" position with a magnet from the outside, maybe you could grab it with a peice of flexible plastic rod with a lump of sticky wax on the end. Something the consistency of "Magicians Wax". If you can put enough pressure onto the screw it may grab the threads enough to pull out. If a small pea size peice of wax falls into the engine, it should just melt away and do no damage.

What an absolute and utter *ssclown.

And since I got a chance to check out Tonichriti's page since posting the above obvious, I'll add this............do you ever have anything to say that actually POSITIVELY CONTRIBUTES to the discussion?

The reason I ask is that I went to your profile and looked up your other posts and read them, let's just say I already know the answer to the above question.........what a troll.

The tensioner linking the IMS to the camshafts for cycls 1-3? So far no luck through this hole because of the chain tensioner really restricts access. I might be able to get a vacuum hose in there.

I'll need to do more research on the engine to visualize what you're describing. How I'm interpreting this is
1) drop out the engine
2) lock the bank 1 cams in place (left side of car when looking at it from the back) after removing the sprocket on the exhaust camshaft. (not sure why removing the sprocket is necessary if that bank will stay intact)
3) [additional steps?]
4) end up with the piece pictured in Jamesp's post below detached--half of the block--allowing easy access to the IMS area.

I'm going to attempt the strategy above and report back. New magnets arrived last night. I should be able to demagnetize the IMS bearing at least if I end up accidentally magnetizing it.

Dropping the engine out sounds like a recipe for even greater calamity/expense/fun, so I'm holding off on that until need be.

I really did not consider magnetizing the engine parts in my suggestion. Jake is, not surprisingly, right that ferrous metal may remain slightly magnetized after exposure to a DC magnetic field. I once saw an edit in a repair manual that struck using magnets for removing lifters, presumably for this reason. The question to me is if you are working on your own, not a customers engine is this a risk worth taking? The magnetic field in this case is a long way from the IMSB with lots of ferrous metal between it and the bearing so magnetizing that seems remote. It's reasonable to imagine a link or two in the drive chain may pick up a little residual magnetism, but then again, all ferrous metal has a little. Me personally, on my engine, if I could get the screw out with magnets I'd swallow the risk of magnetizing a part in the engine and jump on getting the screw out.

And one other item, I for one very much value and appreciate the opinions of those who have actual experience on this engine, even if I might respectfully hold another opinion. The experts don't have to share their experience, they are literally giving their merchandise away for free to help folks out. The carpet munchers out there can think what they want about the motivation, but unless they want to get justifiably flamed, they really ought to keep their ill considered opinions to themselves.

Oh crap. On my last oil change I put in a magnetized drain plug. :(

Never found any metal in my filters yet though. I'll be putting the original plug back in.

Sorry no help to the op, but Thank You Jake!

KRAM, relax, that is shipping the plug next to the IMSB. Your fine, keep the magnetic drain plug.

Thanks for the education Jake, I too did not consider the magnetization of the ferrous parts. I have noticed that anything that comes in contact with this super magnet does become magnetized. Luckily I have a video tape eraser that I use to degauss them.

Ok I see, misread what he was saying. He was saying don't ship them together as it will magnetize the IMSB.

Thanks!

When doing a "half shell repair" you must remove the bolts holding the bank 1 exhaust sprocket.This allows you to turn the engine to facilitate bank 2 disassembly without spinning the bank 1 cams. If you lock the cams at TDC 1, then the valves all stay closed enough to clear all the pistons.

You can leave all of bank 1 assembled, even leave the intake manifold in place on that bank.Just remove the spark plugs.

Magnetized engine parts are a big deal. I was referring to shipping mag drain plugs with IMSBs, which is a huge deal.

I am liking the idea of a small vacuum pump and 1/4" vinyl tubing to fish out the set screw. It may require some time and a bit of luck but probably less time than a half-shell dis-assembly.

certainly worth a try and a hell of a lot simpler than disassembly

We have all had moments where we feel we are running up against a brick wall of impossibility. Such moments can be tough and despairing. Many people spend the entirety of their mature lives fighting for justice, searching for scientific breakthroughs, looking after loved ones, only to have their hearts broken by an unyielding universe. “This is the story of life,” as MLK said.

So I was thinking to myself as I fished around in my engine case for the set screw. David set out to build a great temple but died with the temple unfinished. We all have our temples. There may even be a literal Porsche temple out there. Well, my personal Porsche temple, it is unfinished, it is up on jack stands in the backyard, covered by a blue tarp, causing me troubles with my landlord. It will likely be there for many more months, or until I am evicted. This is the story of life. Damage, repair, incidental damage, repair, death. The natural cycle, waves pounding the beach.

And then I pulled the set screw out of the IMS-crankshaft tensioner hole.

It is amazing to me how gratifying it was to pull that screw out. It was as if I had been dreaming of pulling the screw out my whole life, and then there it was in front of me, stuck to my magnetic wand, covered in motor oil. My girlfriend came running through the living room when she heard me shouting triumphantly. Those of us who are lucky enough know what a good feeling that is. My housemates, also proud, prepared a celebratory feast. What an evening, one for the books. The books for my life this year, anyway.

Thank you all for your contributions. Ultimately I unscrewed all three chain tensioners all the way and used a bungee cord to hold the IMS up and towards the passenger’s side of the car. This I believe created enough clearance for the screw to pass beneath the IMS-crankshaft chain as I guided it from the outside with a 1”x1” cylindrical neodymium magnet. Meanwhile, I maneuvered another magnet on a telescoping rod through the tensioner hole, where it was able to make contact with the screw. The sound of the screw scraping the case was the main sensing signal for the final removal. It helped to have a spatial understanding of the interior, thanks to the endoscope and the photos.

That night I fell asleep thinking of King’s sermon and the conclusion: “Oh this morning, if I can leave anything with you, let me urge you to be sure that you have a strong boat of faith. The winds are going to blow. The storms of disappointment are coming. The agonies and the anguishes of life are coming. And be sure that your boat is strong, and also be very sure that you have an anchor. In times like these, you need an anchor. And be very sure that your anchor holds.”

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Congrats buddy! That's the best feeling ever. Glad there was a happy ending to this story.

:cheers: !!!

This thread should be 'stickied'.

Congrats for sticking with it. I hope the balance of your project goes smoothly!!!

YIPPIE you did it!

Really pleased it all worked out for you.

Chain
 

As may of us watched in interest we are glad it all worked out. And as always Jakes suggestion to enter from the chain tens. hole was correct! What Tenacity !!

You got it!

Yippee! The journey is good and with the struggle, "let desire do the work". The longing and its conclusion pull us forward through the path of darkness, we only need to keep going. And then-- the rebirth!:dance:

Bravo! Brick wall overcome. Now button her down real nice, add some fluids and take her for a long satisfying drive. It is amazing what can be accomplished with patience and determination.

Let the celebrations begin! :cheers:

You ARE da' man! Hell ya. Congratulations!

Best of all, this thread did not just 'die' inconclusively.

Not quite yet; while it is an accomplishment to fish the screw out, he still has an engine that is not at TDC, the cams are not locked, the tensioner's are out, and the IMS flange cover is off. There is still a lot of tricky work yet to be done..........

Woo Hoo! Looks like you used several ideas from several sources to get it done congratulations! We all together are smarter than any one of us alone! Way to go! And next time someone drops a screw there, they have you and your tenacity to thank for the process to get it out!

and you didn't magnetize the IMSB

Great Job... I did not expect that.

Good to see it's out.

I love your eloquent and insightful follow up to fishing out the screw.

When I was 19 I rebuilt a golf gti engine and transmission on my folks drive. Got it all bolted back in. I placed an m6 nut on the front strut top mount.

I knocked it off and you couldn't make it up.....but it fell straight....and I mean didn't touch the sides.....straight in the speedometer drive hole in the top of the trans!

I know your woes, although yours had costlier consequences

Well done

Congrats! That's a Cialis grin if I ever saw one. On to the next challenge!

Congratulations! That made for thoroughly enjoyable reading.

Very good and great "closure" post.

Many times I have got to a seeming impasse when working on my car, saying F this, I'll flatbed it to a shop! Then I calm down and give it another shot and finally: success! Congratulations on your tenacity! Success feels so good, doesn't it? :dance: