986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners - Oil type and timing chain rattle on start-up

- Performance and Technical Chat (http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/)

- - Oil type and timing chain rattle on start-up (http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/55122-oil-type-timing-chain-rattle-start-up.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake Raby (Post 428718)

DT40 has been a continual development since it's conception as "JD Raby's Snake Oil".

The product changed last year, as you are referring to. The new batch is fully developed and is just awaiting blending, and bottling. This newer version improves MPG, helps with tensioner quietness and has proven to pick up a few more ponies in the top end.

Will it be marked in anyway so that the newer blend can be identified?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaykay (Post 428634)

Wow I would like to know how this is accomplished with the engine in the car!

That is a good question. Replacing chains with a master link on other engines is not uncommon, the trick here is finding a chain with a master link! Supposing such a chain was available (or even just the master link really), here are some ramblings on how it might be done:

1) lock the engine at TDC
2) back off the chain tensioner for the chain being replaced (or not? this could be one of the harder things to do with the engine in the car)
3) remove a valve cover to get access to the chain
4) remove the adjustable cam sprocket (the one with 4 screws)
5) remove a pin on the existing chain (grinder and drift punch)
6) connect the new chain via master link to the old chain
7) rotate the engine until the master link re-appears
8) install master link on the new chain
9) rotate to TDC and lock the engine
10) install the cam sprocket(s) and time the valves
11) put back together all the stuff you've taken apart

For 5 chain cars some disassembly of the variocam might be involved

Also, the clearance between the block and cam sprocket/chain are tight, so the remaining cam sprocket may need to come out so your not trying to rotate that cam while installing the new chain.

The chain tensioners will really only be in the way when trying to install the master link so finding a tool to pull the chain together might allow skipping the tensioners.

Thinking about the access to everything it's likely easier to pop the engine out of the car before doing this, but it would still beat the heck out of splitting the case.

So for all those who wrench on motor internals, what's missing in the above 11 steps?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFP in PA (Post 428728)

Will it be marked in anyway so that the newer blend can be identified?

I have no idea.. All mine comes in 55 gallon yellow drums with my name on them. I don't care about marketing or sales, just making things work.

I am sure LN will get word from Lake when they get the new formula, others probably won't ever know that its changed...

And it'll probably change again next year, and the year after that, because I am never, ever satisfied, and neither is Lake. He sends me 5 gallon pails and says "try this, here's the blend #, use on all your drains and data. I'll send you a control next week". That one bucket might cost 1,000 bucks to have made up, and 1/2 the time it doesn't work.