06-04-2014, 10:54 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Guelph, ON
Posts: 981
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Remove the cover under the two caps...
The just fold up the wire clip on the pressure valve...
Put the oil cap back on and start it up.....
When its running and you look into coolant reservoir you'll see the water circulate through it... any big amounts of air should flush out....
H
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Previously owned:
2000 Boxster S 3.2 Ocean Blue / 1974 911 Targa Silver
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08-01-2014, 04:20 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: new orleans
Posts: 249
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sometimes it is the expansion valve which gets stuck open (so i have read). i had a similar incident, which i could not duplicate. i also actuated the purge valve quite a few times (pulled on the wire ring opening and closing the valve). i just topped off the reservoir purged the air from the system and it has been fine for the past 3k. i also closely monitor the engine temp and constantly looked in the rearview mirror for the next couple of weeks for the tell tale signs of leakage.
__________________
2005 Porsche Boxster S, 2000 Porsche Boxster 2.7L Base, 2000 Mazda Miata LS Supercharged, 2010 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road
Previous Vehicles: 2005 Ford Mustang GT, 1986 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1971 Alfa Romeo GTV, 1999 Ford Mustang
1977 Toyota Celica GT
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08-06-2014, 08:56 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hamilton, ON
Posts: 27
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I'm having the same coolant leak issues, and they are occurring on a "frequently infrequent" basis -- the car won't leak for a few days, and then it will drain itself of the coolant from a spot near the right rear tire. When it's leaking, you can see the drip trail on the ground when the car has been moving.
Since I'm not having any issues with moisture in the trunk, I would assume (from what I've read) that it's not a leaky tank. Would a problem with the expansion valve cause this type of behavior and, if so, is this an easy fix?
(My mechanic couldn't isolate the issue, and wants to replace the coolant reservoir. I'd prefer not to, especially if this isn't the root cause of the problem.)
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08-07-2014, 04:18 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Guelph, ON
Posts: 981
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I'm only commenting on your note below as I'm not sure why your mechanic wants to change out the coolant reservoir.... If the reservoir itself isn't leaking or has any cracks then there is no point in replacing it... I haven't seen many of the valves fail and they do come as part of the tank assembly when you order a new tank. If any air gets into the system (ie the cap isn't working right) then with less pressure the boiling point of your coolant will drop (meaning the coolant will boil faster)... you may even have some bubbles in the system in result of this..... I would say open the valve and purge the system, fill it to capacity, put a new cap on the reservoir and you should be fine...
H
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacGrad
I'm having the same coolant leak issues, and they are occurring on a "frequently infrequent" basis -- the car won't leak for a few days, and then it will drain itself of the coolant from a spot near the right rear tire. When it's leaking, you can see the drip trail on the ground when the car has been moving.
Since I'm not having any issues with moisture in the trunk, I would assume (from what I've read) that it's not a leaky tank. Would a problem with the expansion valve cause this type of behavior and, if so, is this an easy fix?
(My mechanic couldn't isolate the issue, and wants to replace the coolant reservoir. I'd prefer not to, especially if this isn't the root cause of the problem.)
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__________________
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Previously owned:
2000 Boxster S 3.2 Ocean Blue / 1974 911 Targa Silver
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06-04-2014, 05:41 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,522
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What H said above, but whenever I have burped the system, I've found that leaving the valve in the open position for 3 or 4 complete heat cycles gets rid of all the small air pockets lodged in the cooling system.
In fact, I normally leave the valve open for a few days, topping up little by little every day until the level stabilises before flipping it back.
__________________
2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley.
2001 MV Agusta F4.
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06-04-2014, 06:48 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: California
Posts: 466
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You guys are great thank you so much. Wow, pictures and everything, you guys go above and beyond. I'll keep you posted over the next few days.
__________________
"Blind acceptance is a sign, of stupid fools who stand in line."
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06-05-2014, 03:43 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Guelph, ON
Posts: 981
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Sometimes pictures are easier than explaining 
I hope you get it sorted out.
Cheers,
H
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slate 01
You guys are great thank you so much. Wow, pictures and everything, you guys go above and beyond. I'll keep you posted over the next few days.
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__________________
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Previously owned:
2000 Boxster S 3.2 Ocean Blue / 1974 911 Targa Silver
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06-05-2014, 03:50 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: California
Posts: 466
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Thank you to all of you that were so willing to help. New cap, opened the valve took a drive with it open, got up to temp and shazaam no more leak. Thank you all so much.
I just installed topspeed test pipes and new aftermarket muffler literally just before this leak problem showed up. So anyone want to take a guess what I will be doing this weekend?
Thanks Porsche Brethren!
 to you all!
__________________
"Blind acceptance is a sign, of stupid fools who stand in line."
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06-05-2014, 05:56 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Guelph, ON
Posts: 981
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Glad you got it sorted out...
__________________
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Previously owned:
2000 Boxster S 3.2 Ocean Blue / 1974 911 Targa Silver
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