Pressure bleeding brake fluid
 

I'm planning to pressure bleed my brake fluid soon and thinking of purchasing the following items from Pelican Parts for this job;

- Black Label European Power Bleeder Kit ($69.95)
- ATE Gold Brake Fluid x3 liters ($15/liter)

Questions:
1) In addition to the instructions from PelicanParts do you offer any other tip for this job? Pelican Technical Article: Bleeding Boxster Brakes - 986 / 987

2) Is "ATE Gold Brake Fluid" a good fluid to use? What color is this fluid? Any other good alternatives?

3) I thought I had read somewhere that it only takes 1 liter of the brake fluid to bleed the system but Pelican Parts states a minimum of 3 liters, which is correct?

One liter is more than enough, I have no idea why Pelican thinks you need that much. ATE Gold (also known as ATE 200) is an amber yellow color.

I wish I had gotten the "black label"; I got the regular one, which has a plastic cap, which works well, but the black label has a metal cap, and also a swivel which makes it much easier when you thread the cap on and off. And I think it has a longer hose too.

At first I would put the fluid in the Motive bleeder and do it that way, but lately I have been using something like the following to suction as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C37BB1A/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I put in fresh fluid, and just use the bleeder to provide the pressure to push the fluid through. Since it is a screw adapter (unlike the Toyota ones where you have to use a chain) it is easy to open and add new fluid. In my opinion less messy that way.

I bought some silicone tubing from lowe's that fits over the bleed nipples just right. I used to have a little bleed kit like this:

One Man Brake Bleeder Kit

With little pointy pieces that you stuck inside the bleed nipple, which worked ok, but the bigger tube that slips over the bleeder works better for me.

If no fluid comes out of your bleed nipple (if some debris or something got stuck in there, less likely if the cap has been on) you can have someone press the brake pedal when you open the bleed screw, or you can shoot a little brake cleaner in there.

You also need an 11mm wrench, the closed end of a box wrench will work if you don't have an 11mm flare wrench. I have heard that it is very bad to use pliers or an adjustable wrench and the open end of a box wrench because it is very easy to round the corners of the bleed screw and ruin it.

Steve

Good luck!!

I second this, I have never used more than 1 liter even when doing a full flush on the brakes and clutch. I think I even had enough left over to do the clutch on my son's Miata too (separate system on the Miata, not shared like clutch and brakes on the boxster)

Another interesting thing, the first time I used super blue, I had a mechanic bleed only the brakes. The next time had the car up and the panels etc. off I bled the clutch and it came out totally blue, no trace of amber. But I get an inch or two of amber out of the inner bleed screw on each caliper. Apparently my mechanic bled only the outer screw, and the amber remained there. But the clutch fluid somehow circulated and mixed with the fresh brake fluid. Interesting. I wonder if others have seen that same thing? Getting to the clutch bleed screw is a !@#$%$ and if it gets fresh fluid by mixing with the rest of the fluid then maybe I don't have to do it every time :)

Over time, and with enough usage, the fluids will mix, but you should flush both the inner and outer bleeders every time you flush. You really don't want any trace of the old fluid in the system.

Thanks guys, so there are 2 bleed screws per caliper? doesn't matter if it's front or rear brake? base vs S model?
Mine is tiptronic so I guess I don't have to worry about bleeding the clutch.

The Brembo calipers on these cars have both and inner and outer bleed valve.

Pelican thinks you need that much because they're selling it. :) I bought 3 liters and used 1.

My '02 and PSM
 

Hi,

I guess I am out of luck as my 2002 has the PSM button and thus I cannot bleed the brakes without the special tool Pelican mentions. Apparently it is a very expensive device since they just point you right to the dealer/indi to perform the job.

With all this talk of bleeding brakes, is that on older models or is the PSM a 'special' option that was added?

thanks

PSM uses the ABS system in help control yaw angles in certain situations. That said, you do not need to cycle the ABS/PSM systems while doing a flush unless you have gotten air into the ABS/PSM control network, or have had to replace components of the control network. Dealers do not activate these systems during a flush unless they encounter one of the situations mentioned.

Pentosin SuperDot4
 

Any feedback on using this product on a 986 that never sees any track time. Car is not a daily driver and only used as a toy.

I'm replacing the brake lines with Goodridge SS lines and thought I should flush out the entire brake system while I am at it. Is Pentosin the right product for me? I like that it comes in a bright yellow color so it will be pretty obvious when I have flushed out all the old fluid.

Comments welcomed.

Thanks

An alternate brand pressure bleeder that I've used for several years
Brake Bleeding Made Easier With Speedi-Bleed Brake Bleeder Tool

Anyone anyone, Buehler?

I just bought one yesterday, the black label version with the aluminum cap.

My clutch was suspect from my first test drive of the car and I knew it needed a bleed at the very least (and, hey who is ever lucky all the time?) probably a slave cylinder.

This was my first repair task on the car since bringing it home the other day.

I'm here to tell you the pressure bleeder is the shiz. I got a ton of air out of the clutch line and it now works great.

As for the 1 liter/ 3 liter thing, I used the metal bottle of fluid to catch the discarded fluid from the slave cylinder and filled it completely and was still getting some bubbles. So I need to go buy more and continue the bleeding until I get zero air.

With only one liter in the power bleeder, there is some risk that the pick up tube will start pumping air instead of fluid, which would set you back a ways. Keeping additional fluid in the chamber will preclude that.

was that the K400 ?

Thanks guys, deeply appreciated the help. LOL

If you open the bleed screw too far bubbles can get sucked in through the threads and make it look like you have tons of bubbles which never end. I always open it just a tiny bit by bit until the fluid starts to flow.

Ps that clutch bleed screw is a %$%& to get to :)

Which one ??
 

Which one do you guys use ??

I need to do this with my Boxster and my BMW

Mine is the "109" with the aluminum cap.

Steved,
I considered the possible induction of air at the bleed screw, so I was opening it just enough also. I kept it up until I got zero bubbles.

My clutch functions well, or well enough. Now I'm casting a glance at the shift linkage. Lots of adjustments needed.

Does the pedal return to top on it's own? If not, than you're not done bleeding the system yet.