Engine on the floor. Now what?
 

My motor, with it's friend the tiptronic, is now on a cart on my garage floor.:eek: My Durametric told me to do this due to a cam deviation of -9 on one bank. In fact, the culprit was, which one might expect, the chain tensioner pads were toast. So I ordered new pads as well as the usual paraphernalia of gaskets o-rings etc. to correct this problem. I also ordered a new low temperature thermostat but not the water pump because it looked clean and solid. The front motor-mount looks great. I know the P O had the IMSB done and the RMS as well. The lifters (tappets) look fine and were very firm even after I cooked them up in oil. :cool:
So, while I'm waiting for the parts to make their way from the US of A to the frozen north, what should I be checking out while have access to all the naughty bits of this machine?
Any suggestions?
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1395879850.jpg

You're going this far and NOT replacing the water pump ???

You are in a unique position to change the Tip fluid; because most of the fluid remains in the converter when doing a drain, you could pull the Tip and remove the converter to drain it fully, as well as the trans itself. Just a few bolts.......

Is dropping the engine necessary to replace the chain tensioner guides?

I'm curious because my deviation is -5 and -6 and may also need to take care of them soon.

It would be nice if you take some pictures of the process because I have not really seen it documented photographically perhaps due to the tight areas
for snapping photos and you are in the perfect position to be able to take full context photos of what this looks like, since your engine has been let out to play.

spark plugs/tubes would be easier, give it a nice wash/dusting, and check all the plumbing for pliability, leaks, chaffing, melting etc.

From a previous post:
It's certainly easier when you have room to move around, but dropping the engine is quite a job in itself for a first timer ( like me). Mine's a tip so I dropped the engine with the transmission. You need a bit of space to do this.. ( I didn't). You can do the tensioner rails in the car if you are flexible and patient. Wayne Dempsey's book is good for the tensioner procedure.
Now if I can only get the motor back in the car...

You have access to everything in the engine bay (coolant tank, etc) go sit in the engine bay and look at everything. Identify things that might need replacing, take out and clean the MAF, change the AOS. Essentially carpet bomb maintenance / weak points.

Nice job! Good luck for next steps!

The AOS hasn't given me any grief so far but it is very easy to change it with the motor out. Is this considered a standard maintenance item?

JFP, I'm a little apprehensive about the transmission fluid: can I just drain it all from the drain plug or will I get a bloody mess when I open it up?
Can I use any LT71141 spec. transmission fluid ?

You will only get about 3-4 liters of the total 9+ liters in the transmission by draining the pan; most of the fluid is held in the converter.

You need to use a fluid whose specs match Porsche's for your car.

Man I'd change darn near very week point I could afford. Your are in a great spot to change and replace with probably very little issue doing so.

So what about the remaining 5 litres in the converter? How do I drain this without wearing rubber boots?:confused:

Definitely do the coolant tank while the engine is out if it is still the original.

The converter is like a fat bottle lying on its side, full up to the level of the neck. Once you separate the Tip from the engine, just carefully slide the converter out and turn the "neck" upwards. Take it to an oil collection receptacle of an appropriate size and turn it over so the "neck" is down. Let it sit for a while as the fluid will take a few min to drain. Once empty, put the converter back onto the Tip, being sure it is fully engaged in the front pump. When the car is back together, you will need to do a filter change and the normal bottom fill until the level is correct at temperature.

Cool. Thanks for that information!

Just a thought for you........ The cam chains are single row chains...they stretch worse than the other double row chains. If your pad were that bad the single row chains are questionable. Remember "deviation" is the SUM of all the parts plus your settings you can control. It all adds up!

Made my new order to ECS today. New AOS, new chains ( see, I [U]am[U] listening), and new ATF filter and gasket. I've decided to take JFP's advice and change all the ATF. I need to find the proper fluid here in the northern hinterland (Montreal). Any suggestions are appreciated.
There are so many things that could/should be done, but the shopping list is getting long and I need to practice a bit of austerity!
I will post my experiences and pix if ever I get this mother back in place. ;)

Directly from Porsche Prestige? I mean for your correct fluid...

Oh, I'm sure they have it. Mais à quel prix ?! 9 litres!

Do you realize you need to split the engine case to install new chains? At that point go for new main, thrust, and rod bearings, as well as new rod bolts. Rings would be nice, but at ~$1200 the old ones look pretty good.

Jamesp, No, I'm only replacing the cam chains, the 2 that go between the intake and exhaust cams.

Now, if only I can find some LT71141 at less than 50 bucks a litre! Gack!