heater won't get warm in the car
 

heater won't get warm or hot in the car! its not the climate control head. had it checked out. not sure where to look now! Coolant is full car isn't running hot

Bad heater core, or air in the line?

Warm the car up and pull the plastic battery cover in the Frunk - check the two rubber lines behind the battery - if both good and hot then heater core functioning. If not bleed the air out of the cooling system.

If both hot, a mechanical failure in the mixing valve / door is likely.

It most likely depends on bad mixing valves. Find the exchanger valve (hot/cold) and check if it moves as long as you increase/decrease temperature. If the valve's arm moves smoothly but no warm/hot air comes out from the grids, take it down and replace it. You can even try to repair it if you have will and skill.

I know this is an old thread, but I am resurrecting it for a good reason. I too suffered from the issue many of the older Boxsters are having with no heat. I did all the burping/flushing/checking coolant stuff, and I was convinced that lack of flow to my heater core was not the issue.

Now this was all back in September when it really wasn't cold yet, so like many of us would do I procrastinated. Plus I had another car to drive, so the lack of heat in my Boxster really wasn't a big deal. Anyway, now it is January, and I've sold my other car. The Boxster needs to be back in daily use for the time being, so damn it, heat must be found!

Back in September, I had found a tutorial online that indicated that if you had these two symptoms, then there may be a really creative fix. The two telltale symptoms are:

• Little or no heat, even after the car has reached normal operating temps.
• Tiny little bits of foam blowing out of your vents.

If you have these two then the following link may be the fix for you. I'm posting this here in this thread to document it, since it has disappeared from it's original website, and is only online in PDF format here:

Link to PDF

Basically it involves doing some surgery to the heater box under the front bonnet. No need to pull the dash etc. At first what is being proposed here may seem too good to be true. let me assure you, it works. After about 3 hours of following the instructions, I now have all the heat I could possibly want.

When you read the instructions, at one point the instructions mention using electrical tape to cover the door with, it will make sense when you read the process. I have an improvement to offer. I used this stuff, which is available for about $5 at any home improvement store. Worked great, and I think will hold up to the heat better.

Thanks for posting this. I too have noticed this problem recently with my 01 S. Not really sure if it's the 160 degree recent tstat change or not. I notice on mine when the heat stops coming out if I increase the temp on the controller then the heat come out again. I recently changed my anti freeze and upgrade tstat so to many changes to rule things out. I thought I properly burped the system following Pelican site instructions then even drove around for a couple of days with the bleeder open.

My problem is too much heat. I have the temp set at the lowest setting and its hotter than hell in the car. Turning the heat up doesn't do anything. Not sure if my problem is the valve is stuck in the full on position.