Starting issue. Cranks-no start
 

Hi, I could use some help. My Boxster left me stranded at a light. Would crank but not start. After checking fuel pump fuse was ok I had it towed home. I jumpered pins 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay and it started. Ordered relay from Pelican. Installed, it started, drove 5 miles to an appointment, then would not restart. Towed home. Before I hooked up Durametric I tried ignition and it started. Durametric revealed 6 codes. The first one has been ongoing. The last 5 are new.

P0455:
Porsche fault code 94 - Tank vent system (major leak)


P1130:
Porsche fault code 361 - Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 2


P1341:
Porsche fault code 174 - Camshaft adjustment bank 1 below limit value


P1579:
Porsche fault code 111 - Crankshaft sensor


P0336:
Porsche fault code 110 - Engine speed sensor Open circuit


P1124:
Porsche fault code 167 - Fuel pump relay below limit value

Regarding the first ongoing code, I've replaced the gas cap, carbon canister, vacuum canister, secondary air vac valve, 2 check valves. Still got that code but was running fine so I ignored it awaiting more insight.

I did not think to unhook maf during start failure. I did replace it within 10,000 miles though. It was running normal prior to problem. I did detect a very slight miss at idle similar to when I had a hairline crack in a coil pack.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Garry

A cold or a hot engine start?
anyway, you have the crankshaft sensor to change it could induce that kind of problem...

I think it's consistently been a hot start. Once it died at a red light and would not restart. Second time after replacing relay, it was a hot start failure.

First thing I'd suggest is clearing the codes and see if they reoccur. Main reason I suggest that is I've just been through a similar situation and from what I have read/experienced there can be spurious faults.

I'd also suggest a simple MAF test. For my issue with a hot start failure if I disconnected the MAF the car would start. After replacing the MAF, the issue has not reoccurred. And I have a brand new Crankshaft Position Sensor sitting in a plastic bag since I did not use it. :)

FWIW, I thought my problem was a bad CPS which is why I ordered the replacement parts from Pelican, but later error codes indicated a bad MAF (Thank you JD for the suggestion). It was a P0101 or was it P0102. I forget. Different from yours, but still a MAF test will not cost you anything and you might be surprised. I was. Who would have thought a bad MAF could prevent the flow of fuel or an ignition signal?

It will start when cold only. Last night I started it, cleared the codes, and let it run till it died: about 15 min. warmed up to 180 degrees then died abruptly. Then an immobilizer failure code appeared. Will a car start at all if the immobilizer fuse under the drivers seat is blown? I'll test and clean the MAF, too.
Thanks

I had a Mercedes ML350 that was doing the same thing but would only run for 5 minutes before dying and then had to cool down to restart. Turned out to be a crank position sensor. Still learning these cars and know there are cam position sensors, if it has CPS's too, my bet would lay there.

cranks wont start
 

Today I pulled the immobilizer, cleaned with electronics cleaner, checked wires, fuse, and solder joints under magnification. Replaced. Same thing. Since I cleared the codes, immobilizer, and engine speed sensor have appeared on the durametric. I assume its referring to crank position sensor. I also observed today while it was running that if I really stomp hard and fast on the accelerator, there's a hiss, hesitation before it revs. Reminds me of vacuum problems I had on a BMW. Is there a way of isolating vac problems with the durametric. I've done a visual at engine topside and didn't see anything obvious. Can the CPS be cleaned or adjusted or only replaced?
I appreciate any input.
Thanks,
Garry

I think the sensor can only be replaced. I bought one form Pelican for about $130 if I remember correctly. I didn't use it since I did a MAF check before replacing the CPS. I beleive Randal posted a link in one of my "Starting" treads that points to a way to check the resistenace of a good vs. bad CPS sensor. One of the issues that seems to occur with a CPS is the flywheel hitting it and damaging it over time. tghe CPS reads the flywheel via magnetic flux so I'd think the sensor is either working, or needs repalcement, unless the issue is the flywheel and not the sensor.

Thanks guys. Didn't get to tinker w the car today, I'll keep ya posted.

I've ordered a crank position sensor. Can someone tell me where the other end of the purge line goes, the one that is under the left side intake. I assume it goes to either the fuel tank or the carbon canister. I have the canister with 3 inlets on top and 0 on the bottom.
Thanks,
Garry

I installed cps and that did the trick for the starting issue. Now I'm chasing vent line and purge line issues and a rattle near the rear axle. I know its not struts or mounts, sway bar bushings or links, motor mount, or transmission mounts as I have replaced all of those.
Thanks to all who have replied.