2004 986S preventative maintenance - input please
Hello everyone! Suggestions welcome:
I'm getting ready to take my 2004 S into an independent shop for RMS, IMSB retrofit, Clutch and possibly flywheel depending on what they find "while in there." The car only has 73K kms (45K miles) on it and runs like a top, I picked it up in Germany in April and promptly drove the long way to Spain through 5 countries over 2000 miles plus another 1000 miles since. Not a hint of anything wrong other then a driveline clunk on clutch engagement at low rpms, especially from a stop or on in-town 1st - 2nd shifts. Thinking flywheel/front motor mount/tranny mounts but we'll see what the shop finds. So, since its going on the lift with tranny out, are there any other must-do items, or at least some to order parts for and inspect just in case? Spending more money then planned is one thing, spending it twice on labor is something else entirely! Thanks in advance for any input. |
CV joints and boots. They should be fine with only 45K miles, but worth checking.
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And the Boots and thus CVs are a weak point on 6 speeds, different angle than the older 5 speeds.
Motor mounts particularly the front. |
While the car is apart for the RMS/IMS/clutch, the AOS is right out in the open and can be changed in about 5 min. I would also look at the oil fill tube as they are a common problem, and are also exposed while the car is apart.
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I also have a 2004 Boxster S and did the IMS retro, RMS, clutch, throwout bearing, water pump, and thermostat in 2012. The car had 42,000 mile when the work was done. The fly wheel was in fine shape. Did the water pump at the adivse of the garage doing the work. The pump has a plastic fin impeller. They have a tendancy to crack. Did all of this as a precationary measure. Now I can sleep better. The USD4,000, which included an oil & filter change was worht the money.
Glad to see you are doind the motor mounts. I did not do this and just had the front replaced a few days ago. Good luck! |
When the engine is out there will be the opportunity to see some things like motor mounts, belt, etc that really can't be easily accessed in the car. Some of them will obviously need to be replaced and some others like water pump, aos, etc will be necessary just on time or milage alone. better to do it when it is easy rather than on the side of the road in 3 months. so many of the small things have to have basicly the same labor to get to them that I'd change anything that is questionable.
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Usually it is a given with a new clutch but make sure they put in a new pilot bearing. Just did some of what I would consider routine maintenance on my 2002S. The motor mount rubber was broken at 45 k mi. Also replaced transmission mounts due to age but they were actually in good condition and did not need replacement. There is no end to what you can do to keep your baby at peak performance other than time and your wallet.
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If your headers are off replace your spark plugs. This is another job cut in half time wise with some parts out of the bottom.
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Thanks for the responses everyone! Some new questions:
There was a mention of the serpentine belt, whats the normal life for one? Also, spark plugs were replaced twice during the first years as far as I can see in the service book, again what is the normal replacement interval for these? Sounds like the AOS is a no-brainer with the transmission out. The engine is staying in the car, its just a tranny drop planned. Motor mount is probably a must-do anyway. Water pump sounds like a good item to change too. Any remarks on the oil pump shaft I've read about or the oil pump itself? Are the pilot bearing/throwout bearing the same thing, and isn't this normally addressed during a clutch replacement? Finally, any thoughts about sump baffles and other plastic parts in the sump causing issues? |
Pilot bearing is for the front main shaft of transmission where it inserts into flywheel and in my opinion should be changed with a new clutch. It is cheap and you already have access. Throwout bearing rests against the pressure plate of the clutch and disengages the clutch when pedal is depressed.
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Thanks everyone for the responses! Would anyone bother dropping the sump just to inspect what might be laying in it, or would that decision depend on how the IMSB looks when removed? The car will also be getting a magnetic drain plug and spin-on filter adapter.
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Be sure to clean the oil pickup tube also. Standard Ultra Grey sealant works well for sealing the oil sump cover as long as the sealing surfaces of the engine & sump cover are spotlessly clean. |
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Oil pumps rarely have problems unless anything other than oil passes thru it. Same for the oil pump drive shaft. Definitely upgrade to the LN billet shaft when convenient, but that requires removing the waterpump/oilpump/engine mount/coolant manifold housing so I wouldn't bother now. You can see the rubber doors to the left of the baffle in the pic below http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1375472678.jpg |
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