Drive Axle and Head Gasket Replacements
 

My 2001 Boxster S (30K miles) has some needs and I'd appreciate hearing from those with experience.

Left Rear Drive Axle: I had the right rear drive axle replaced last year, as the rubber boot had torn and allowed dirt in, and it was cheaper to replace it than rebuild. I didn't realize until recently, that the PCA-recommended mechanic had used a non-Porsche replacement ($300 vs $800) but its been fine. Now the left one needs to be replaced. I'll need a "Special Tool 9560 (ball joint press)" which is new to me. Has anyone here with modest skills done a successful replacement? Any thoughts on the non-stock part?

Valve Cover Gaskets: While I have the car up, and apart, I'm planning to replace the valve cover gaskets. Do I need more than the parts and the Bentley manual? Anyone here try this and wish they hadn't?

Exhaust: I have to remove my stock exhaust system to do this work above. I'd like to hear back from someone who has installed a Borla Cat Back exhaust.

You might want to do the spark plug tubes whiles your in there. As far as the drive axles I replaced both of mine with out to much trouble and I didn't have the special tool. It wasn't nearly as bad as a BMW axle. Good luck. And definitly go for the exhaust.

If your cam covers are leaking and you want to remove, clean, and reseal (there is no gasket- its a sealant) you will need a cam holding tool to hold the camshafts to the head as you remove the cover. The cam cover holds the cams down and as you remove it the valve spring pressure will try to push the cams out of the head and you could risk snapping them.

Do a search for "cam holding tool" and you will see the Porsche tool, and several home made tools. I made a tool myself following some specs I found on this site and it worked perfect.

Also, like truegear said I would definitely replace the spark plug tubes while you are in there.

Not sure why you would need a ball joint press. To remove the axle you need to loosen the axle nut (while car is on ground), jack up car, remove wheel, remove caliper, take off rotor, remove axle nut, undo the 14 nuts and bolts holding the aluminum pan and longitudinals (probably not correct name). Remove the part of the exhaust from the cat to the muffler. Remove 6 cv bolts at the transaxle and then remove axle. The axle nut is torqued down to 320 foot lbs. The nut is a 32 mm. You will need a long breaker bar or cheater bar to break it loose.

what they said. I did axles without removing the bearing or brakes. I did have to drop the exhaust mid-pipe about 1" on the left side. here's a good diy:

Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Boxster CV Joints and Boots / Axle Replacement - 986 / 987

ps, be careful using aftermarket axles - I had issues with mine - cv didn't have the same range of motion, used poor quality boots, was unfinished and prone to rust, and dust shield didn't fit transmission flange. I had much better luck buying a used, low-mileage oem axle from a wrecker.

regarding cam covers - don't remove, just retorque to spec (follow bentley to torque in appropriate order) as well as change spark plug tubes. 99% chance will fix any leaks.

I think resealing a cam cover is about a 4 hour job, no? It's not just like a typicle valve cover job as the cover is machined to fit that head and is an integral part of the head assembly. I haven't done it and don't intend to discourage you, just a heads up you know. There is such a wide range of abilities on this forum- easy to one is 'oh no what have I done':eek: to another. Having said that there's tons of help here if you need it.:D

I replaced all of my CV boots earlier this year. I used a basic press for fwd or irs vehicles to separate the half shafts from the carrier this way I didn't have to bother with unbolting the carrier. Overall it was a pretty easy job.

The tool I described works by being bolted on to 3 of the lug nuts. Then a large center bolt/punch is tightened which pushes the driveshaft out. I did have to drop the exhaust manifold on one side. It was the drivers side iirc.

The shafts are pretty easy to rebuild. Has one of the joints failed or just the boot torn?

Thanks!
 

I do appreciate this forum's member's depth of knowledge and willingness to share it. After being offered a discounted price of $2500 to change the front rotors, left drive axle and eliminate the leakage on the valve covers, I ordered $700 of parts from Pelican and will bust out tools and skills I put away 30 years ago to:
1. change the front rotors , pads and wear sensors myself (seems pretty straightforward),
2. change the spark plug tubes and re-torque the valve cover bolts (and see if that eliminates the minimal leakage before I go to another DE event), and
3. remove the drive axle and assess the condition. The rubber boot was not torn 6 months ago when I last had it up on a lift, so I may be able to avoid replacement of the entire assembly and just replace the boots and anything damaged inside.

I'll let you know how it goes. It's often a challenge to start taking apart things that have been together and untouched for a dozen years, but I want to enjoy the next 70K miles of use in this very capable and smile-inducing car.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1371031084.jpg

I didn't even know they made a tool for this! All I have ever done is just leave the axle nut on so the top of the nut is flush with the end of the axle threads and using a block of wood and a hammer, just tap it out.

When I changed out my rear wheel bearing last weekend I can report that none of the bolts or nuts were rusted in place. Of course I live in an area that doesn't see a lot of salt on the roads in winter!