2001 Boxster S Engine Noise - Page 3 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

BYprodriver · 06-12-2013, 03:41 PM

Yes, rotate clockwise only, 1 full 360* & pin at TDC. Now bank 1-3 timing marks will flip upside down from prior position & now the smaller segment of the cam timing mark will face down. Install cams like you said, making sure to have all cam holding parts in place & torqued before releasing tension from Vario-Cam to cam chain. Then install gear sprocket with chain on exhaust cam with the special 10.9 grade bolts HANDTIGHT in the middle of the adjustment range.

Now install cam cover leaving oil pump & green cam plugs out. Next adjust cam timing with proper tool. Once timing is set slightly tighten exhaust cam gear sprocket bolts to hold timing in place & remove 1 bolt at a time, apply blue medium loctite & torque to 10.5 ft/lbs. Once all bolts are torqued rotate engine clockwise ONLY 1 revolution to TDC to check cam timing again. Repeat 1 revolution again to put 4-6 bank at TDC & verify correct cam timing for 4-6 cams. Install oil pump in head with 4-6 facing crankcase & coolant temp sensor.
New updated 4-6 chain tensioner will be a lower profile, perhaps for heat dispersion for A/C compressor. Tensioner installs with 11mm allenhead & has zero id rings unlike the others.

Wilson01S · 06-12-2013, 04:16 PM

Awesome! Thanks for all that! I haven't tried yet, but does the cam timing tool actually have an adjustment? It seems like it would just go into the slot on the exhaust cam, and then bolt to the head? I will have to recompress the vario-cam tensioner as I released it as soon as I figured out how to snake in in between the cams keeping everything lined up.

Wilson01S · 06-19-2013, 06:28 PM

Finally got all my parts from Pelican! She will be going back together tomorrow night Friday on my day off and I hope to hear it running (quietly) Friday afternoon! One last question is there any certain way to install the lifters? What I mean is do they oil orifices on the sides need to be all aligned facing a certain way, or can the lifter just be plopped into the holes?

Thanks!

BYprodriver · 06-20-2013, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

Finally got all my parts from Pelican! She will be going back together tomorrow night Friday on my day off and I hope to hear it running (quietly) Friday afternoon! One last question is there any certain way to install the lifters? What I mean is do they oil orifices on the sides need to be all aligned facing a certain way, or can the lifter just be plopped into the holes?

Thanks!

Pre fill the new lifters with new hot engine oil to test & then just install on top of the valve springs no particular orientation. The cams are hollow, tubular, so you can pre fill them with oil also once installed.

Wilson01S · 06-20-2013, 01:33 PM

OK thanks!

I received the rest of my parts and when I was checking out the IMS retrofit kit from LN I have a question about some of the included pieces. In all the videos I have seen with the IMS bearing being replaced the bearing is installed with the installer tool and light taps from a mallet. What are the two hexagonal tools that are threaded inside and the allen bolt used for? I wish I had a picture but hopefully someone knows what I am talking about haha

Also can I time this engine with the 5 chain tool they supplied? Since I know the cams will be timed together via the cam-to-cam chain will holding just one cam and making sure the marks are parallel with the cam cover work? Is this to replace the P253 tool?

Also I have read and/or watched just about every write-up and video on the IMS bearing replacement, but none of them show the use of the Pelican kit (I would imagine because the LN kit is superior and more frequently used). Anyway my car has a dual row bearing, and this kit said it can accommodate both, but how is the new bearing installed with the 2 spacers it came with, and with using the flange from my double row bearing?

AKnowles · 06-20-2013, 08:16 PM

Just my two cents worth, and I could be a bit off but here it goes ...

The two hexagonal tools if I understand what you are looking for are used to pull the original bearing. Connec it to the bearing stud, hold one, twist the other, and pop out comes the bearing.

From what I understanf the cam holding tool only holds one cam. It is theoretically possible, but the recommendation is to use a cam tool that holds both cams. Me, I plan to buy a set on eBay when I need it. About $275~$350 from what I've seen. Or ask if I can borrow a set on the forum possibly.

As for the Pelican kit, while it can work it scare me (and some others) with the simple thought of replacing a strong two bearing unit with a single bearing unit and a spacer. Nope, not ever going to happen on my car. It'll have to be a dual row bearing replacement from LN or possibly Casper Labs (heard about, but no other experiance). Mine will be replaced when I rebuilt the clutch some day.

Wilson01S · 06-21-2013, 10:13 AM

Guys did I just confuse myself and go 360 out on timing on one bank? Or is my timing spot on?

Starting with bank 1-3 The two marks on the exhaust cam are perfectly lined with the seam of the cam cover. The index mark on the intake cam is pointing outward.

With bank two the two marks on the exhaust cam are perfectly lined with the seam of the cam cover, but the index mark on the intake cam is also pointing outward.

So at the same time both intake cam index marks are pointing outward. Is that right? Or is one bank 360 off?

Wilson01S · 06-24-2013, 11:42 AM

Bueller...

Wilson01S · 06-25-2013, 09:39 AM

I found an online manual for removing and replacing valve tappets-

In the steps it says "Basic camshaft adjustment of cyl bank 1-3 the groove in the camshaft must face outward toward the cylinder head cover"

I have that done.

Now it says "basic camshaft adjustment for cylinder bank 4-6 groove must face inward toward the crankcase"

Are they referring the marks lining up like that at one time? Or should the mark for 1-3 be facing outward- make your adjustments to timing for bank 1-3. Then when you are ready for bank 4-6 spin the engine 360* relock the crank and check to see if the groove for 4-6 is now inward. If it is then make your adjustments?

If that's the case then I am 360 out on one bank, and would make sense why the exhaust manifold for 4-6 isn't getting warm and its missing on 3 cylinders.

philou320 · 06-25-2013, 09:47 PM

Hello

Have you checked that post?

DIY: Setting Cam Timing on M96

sorry you have, I see you have posted.

Wilson01S · 06-30-2013, 09:07 AM

Well got the timing figured out...stupid me when I set the cam to cam timing I had the cams upside down on my workbench......oh well won't make that mistake again!

Got it all back together and it fired right up beautifully this time....runs smooth as silk!

EXCEPT THE DAMN NOISE IS STILL THERE!

Oh well time to take the engine out and tear it down...

Wilson01S · 07-03-2013, 06:05 AM

Well before I took the engine out I decided I better take the cam cover off for bank 1-3 to inspect.....glad I did.

Upon removal of the cam cover I immediately noticed a tremendous oil build up. It seems like this side of the engine was running a little hotter due to lack of lubrication. I am unsure if it has a clogged oil passage, or just the oil was so gummed up in the oil passages that it caused this side to run warmer. Anyway I checked the lifters for this side and sure enough two of them (one more than the other) could be collapsed almost by hand with a socket extension. I pumped them and dirt and oil came out that did not look healthy.

The cam cover for the 4-6 bank had maybe a slight discoloration. The underside was mostly a nice aluminum finish with maybe a slight golden hue- nothing I would call abnormal.

Now look at the cover for 1-3 and tell me what you think....

BYprodriver · 07-03-2013, 07:09 AM

Wow that is nasty! I would replace all those lifters too. Be sure to clean & blow out the oil passages with compressed air.

Wilson01S · 07-18-2013, 09:46 AM

After a thorough cleaning of the cam cover, and the entire top of the cylinder head, cleaning of oil passages, installation of new lifters on the passenger and drivers side, replacement of the cam-to-cam chain pads and fresh mobil 1 15w50

the noise is still there.

I took a new video...about 3/4 of the way through I held it at 1800rpm and you can hear the noise begin to skip around and become random.

also note that for about 1 minute the noise went away again, and gradually came back.

2001 Boxster S knock - YouTube

enjoy.

side note #2- is this fast enough to be a lower end noise?

woodsman · 07-21-2013, 12:28 PM

I've been watching your 'project' and admire your bravery and thought you had it licked! Not quite yet, but keep up the good fight and here's to a happy end!

Wilson01S · 07-22-2013, 06:04 AM

Thanks woodsman! I will be removing the engine this week and tearing it apart. I have eliminated all other possibilities.

mitchellb · 07-28-2013, 08:05 AM

I believe I had the same problem 3 months ago, 4-6 Cyl, timing went haywire, noise was exactly like yours. I could not diagnose, so I towed it to a friend who has a Porsche Shop here in So. Fla.
Ok, $1800 later it was the Vario Chain Tensioner for 4-6Cyl's, whos Rail Clip broke apart and created that severe knocking. I didn't read everything you have written but it also could be the solonoid attached to the Tensioner that isnt working. I hear thats has been an issue on early models, Just a thought? Also a note on putting the covers back on, be careful as to the amount of Silicon(Loctite 5900, Only two are recommended) as it can jam up the oil return hole next to the bottom Cam and pressure will result in blowing out the Green Cap and leaking oil. We experienced that after and had to redo the the Valve Cover.
Please let us know how you make out of your exhausting deal.

Wilson01S · 08-21-2013, 07:29 AM

Well I found the problem. The number 6 connecting rod bearing failed and destroyed the crankshaft journal. Also the rear most crankshaft carrier bearing has preliminary signs of failure from either metal contamination from the rod bearing, or excessive vibration from the rod bearing. It caused some pretty serious scoring in the piston hole, and ya...it pretty!

My ultimate wish would be a flat6 build, but quite frankly it's way out my budget. Now I am on the fence as to whether I should just sell my car as a roller/part it out, or search for a low mileage 3.2 to swap in.

I have read a couple of conversion threads and articles about swapping a 3.4 into the car, but it appears to be less straightforward than I thought. I didn't know there was much involved in the ways of intake plumbing, MAF, DME, trans mount, etc

Is it really worth the hassle, or should I look for a 3.2?

BYprodriver · 08-21-2013, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

Well I found the problem. The number 6 connecting rod bearing failed and destroyed the crankshaft journal. Also the rear most crankshaft carrier bearing has preliminary signs of failure from either metal contamination from the rod bearing, or excessive vibration from the rod bearing. It caused some pretty serious scoring in the piston hole, and ya...it pretty!

My ultimate wish would be a flat6 build, but quite frankly it's way out my budget. Now I am on the fence as to whether I should just sell my car as a roller/part it out, or search for a low mileage 3.2 to swap in.

I have read a couple of conversion threads and articles about swapping a 3.4 into the car, but it appears to be less straightforward than I thought. I didn't know there was much involved in the ways of intake plumbing, MAF, DME, trans mount, etc

Is it really worth the hassle, or should I look for a 3.2?

2000 or 2001 996 3.4 is the easiest engine to swap. After listening to the engine run, perform a compression &/or leakdown test to check for excessively worn cylinders since the 3.4 engine has the thinnest cylinder walls. If the engine passes you still need to remove the cam covers & replace the VarioCam actuator wear pads. While you have the lifters out clean & test them. Reassemble the cams & covers & set cam timing. Now you are ready to do the LNengineering IMSB retrofit. Now you should have a reliable engine ready to swap. The long blocks are nearly identical so remove original engine & position 3.4 side by side & swap external parts that are different for 996. This swap will run great without reprograming the DME.
There is a rebuilt engine in the classified thread designed for this application.
Yesterday, 07:41 AM I posted this yesterday on Pelican in a simuler thread for a 02.

Wilson01S · 12-05-2013, 10:26 AM

Well after a very, very long time searching I finally found a nice low mileage (51K) 3.2 for my boxster!!!

I finally got it in and its running great! Upgraded the IMS, replaced spark plug tubes, AOS, and a few other maintenance items, but I am finally able to drive the car!!

Now its time for a little body work, and to finish the restore project