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Key hard to turn in ignition
The first time I go to start the car in the morning, it's really difficult to turn the key. It almost feels like I'm going to break it off. After it moves the first time, from then on, it turns very easily.
I've tried jiggling the wheel and I replaced the electrical portion of the switch about a year ago. I've also noticed that the steering wheel lock does not work at all. Any ideas? |
Sounds like your ignition lock cylinder itself is failing internally. Porsche dealerships normally have complete unit with updated switch in stock. Usually costs around $180 and not very difficult to install yourself. Part # 996 347 017 07
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Do I have to re-key after I change the cylinder? My understanding that is big bucks at the dealer.
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See if this older post is any help. Worth a try before spending the big bucks for a new switch assembly.
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/36472-ignition-switch-acting-up.html |
I believe you might find that simply changing the ignition switch for <$15 might be a great first step to see if this fixes the issue. If you search ignition switch you will find many discussions of this part that commonly fails. You likely won't have to replace the whole mechanism if you start with the switch only. Worth the effort first IMO.
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Yes, I read that post, but my problem is the steering wheel lock does not work at all, so I'm thinking it's the Ignition lock cylinder, the mechanical portion, that's failing.
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OK, maybe someone else can comment. I admit, I didn't recall the wheel lock not working in my case....
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Quote:
I'm posting this from my iPad, so I can't show a picture, but if you will look at the part, you will understand what I mean. |
got some pics for you.
the assembly with the key on it. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1362178511.jpg the new assembly without the key portion. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1362178554.jpg looks like you need to lift the two tabs, and move the key portion from old to new assembly. |
My key was difficult to turn and it was the common failed ign switch jamming the works. The $15 part fixed it.
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Adding to an old thread, but I had the same issue. After replacing the electrical portion on the ignition two times and not making a difference; I went another route.
I removed the ignition barrel from the car; this is fairly labor intensive as you have to remove the steering wheel and dash cluster to get access to the barrel. Once you get access, it's not bad removing the part. Once I remove the barrel, there is a square metal piece on the side of the barrel, I was able to remove this with a flat head screw driver and a hammer, by gradually working the screw driver along the seams and popping out this square. Once the square is removed, I doused the whole barrel in degreaser and let it dry out. Then I applied lithium grease to the internals of the barrel. Once this was done, youll notice that the spring loaded piece will extend and retract much easier. This is what was causing the issue. When you remove the key, the barrel was not retracting to tell the car the key was removed which left the aux power (radio, etc) still running. It's also the reason the key is hard to turn in cold weather, the old grease gets gummed up and doesn't allow the bolt to extend. I fixed this about a year ago and it's worked perfectly every since. |
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