Replacing the Coolant tank...
 

I have the classic leak in the coolant tank. After reading the DIYs on Pedros site and over at Pelican Parts it looked like something I could do. I got the parts and a cable operated clamp pliers and went for it.

Well, I think I have bitten off more than I can chew. I was able to get the oil filler line removed from the engine bay but thats about as far as I got in 5 hours. After I got it removed I thought that I could get some slack and get access to the rest of the the hoses. No luck, I could only get about an inch or so of slack and I could not get at the clamps. I tried to get at the hoses from the engine but I could not get any of my tools on the clamps. I also tried from under the car but again I had not luck.

I am about to give up, it seems like the lines in the engine compartment are much shorter on my car and I can't figure out how to get the tools on the clamps.

Any one run into this? It seems like I have to cut the lines to get the tank out but that seems a bit rash and I am afraid that it will cause more problems. I am going to give it another shot tomorrow, but I might be in over my head.

Cheers,

Reed

It's a real PITA but don't give up. The coolant tank was my initiation into Boxster repair and it was not pretty. If I remember, I was able to get at the clamps from below, but I had to remove the diagonals and the aluminum plate to get at the clamps. When you get the clamps off, replace them with screw clamps, much easier than dealing with the spring clamps.

It is defenetly not easy, and I did it with the trans removed.
See post 53 here:
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/37984-winter-project-2.html
Hope it helps.
Another tip I can give you, is to remove the rubber grumett of the engine main wires loom (left side of the arrow) it will give you more room to work.
Take your time and don't give up.
Good luck.

I feel your pain. Took me about 3 1/2 hours to get mine out, but I did manage it without removing other parts and with no loss of blood. Worked from the top, mostly by feel, and also by pulling the manifold forward and working from in the trunk. I think next time I would remove the clamshell to improve access. Don't forget to use a fender cover or you will scratch the heck out of your paint. You might want to try removing the aluminum brace and going in from underneath if the topside approach just won't work for you.

Hate to say this, but it's even more of a nasty getting the new one back in. You got a new sender unit and cap too, right?

It's all in how you approach it really.

When reaching into the compartment to remove the two hose clamps first look with flashlight to orient yourself with the two hoses and what position the clamps are at.

Then with your back facing the rear of car reach in with left arm (tool clamp in left hand) and handle of tool in right hand.

You can reach further back this way and with sense of feel you can locate and place tool clamp on and operate handle with right hand.

Give it a try.

Good Luck.

If you have not had a chance to read Pedro's How To on this, it would be a good time:

Replace Coolant Reservoir

i gave up on mine and took it in. i have a tiptronic which makes a hard job even harder. after picking it up, the mechanic showed me the gashes on his hands. he said it was the most PITA job he'd done in a very long time.

there's no shame in paying someone else to do this job... :)

If you don't mind me asking...what did that job set you back, TC? Stealership or Indie?

labor only - $682.50 (local vw dealer)
parts (purchased online when i thought i could do it) - $260.85