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Old 12-29-2005, 06:38 PM   #1
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What Rotors and Pads

I installed Zimmerman Cadium drilled rotors and Pagid "Blue" pads about 8 months ago.

After 10k miles, I really dont think they are going to make it another 4 months!

What kinds of combinations of Rotors and Pads by Mfg do any of you use?

The Pagid "Blue" pads are a little squeaky for me when rolling to a stop and hope to here a success story with another type or mfg.

Regards

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Old 12-29-2005, 07:35 PM   #2
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While on the topic, where can one get the Boxster S OEM pads and rotors? I'm talking the exact one's that came on my car.
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Old 12-29-2005, 08:47 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
While on the topic, where can one get the Boxster S OEM pads and rotors? I'm talking the exact one's that came on my car.
Look on eBay for Suncoast Porsche in Fla, they are selling OEM rotors and pads

This one is for the non S, but check his store.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-BOXSTER-986-OEM-FRONT-BRAKE-ROTORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQitemZ8026 248685QQrdZ1

Pagid is the supplier of pads to Porsche, just have to find the correct stifness which eludes me.

Unless someone pipes up with good info, I am switching back to orginals!
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1983 911 SC Coupe 3.0 Gaurds Red (restoration, in pieces)
199? 993 Coupe Gaurds Red (lurking for....)
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbennett
... The Pagid "Blue" pads are a little squeaky for me when rolling to a stop and hope to here a success story with another type or mfg.

Regards...
Hi,

I assume you chamfered the edges of the Pad 45°?? If not, this can be the source of your squeaking. Not Chamfering the edges of the Pad with a File can prevent the Pad from perfectly squaring up to the Rotor Face which can cause a vibration, especially at slow speeds. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNBoxster
I assume you chamfered the edges of the Pad 45°??
No I didn't, never thought about it? But thats why I am on this forum, thanks for the tip.

The other problem with drilled rotors is the "Cheese Grading Effect" the holes are chamfered on the rotors, but still adds wear to the pads.

Regards
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2000 2.7 Lapis Blue Boxster, Sports Pkg, Lit, Tip, Exhaust, De amber'fied
1983 911 SC Coupe 3.0 Gaurds Red (restoration, in pieces)
199? 993 Coupe Gaurds Red (lurking for....)
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbennett
...No I didn't, never thought about it? But thats why I am on this forum, thanks for the tip. ...
Regards
Hi,

FYI, a Copy of the Brake Pad Bedding Procedure taken from PAGID's Advert in the 2006 CDOC Performance Catalog:

Brake Bedding Procedure

Why Bedding?

● To Transfer a layer of Friction material onto the Brake Disc faces to achieve maximum performance.

● To stabilize compressible materials to avoid a Spongy Pedal.

● To Boil-Off volatile elements in the Friction Compound in order to have the inital Green fading during Bedding In and not in Actual use.

● To align the Pad surface with the Brake Disc surface to have full contact.

If Pads are not Bedded properly and/or are used hard right out of the box, they will likely become Glazed. Pad Glazing is a condition where the resins in the Pad crystalize on both the Pad Friction surface and the Brake Disc surface, resulting in poor Stopping Performance, Brake Shudder, and Vibrations. Also, rapidly escaping volatile elements and moisture from the resin would seek an immediate escape route out of the Friction Compound, creating small fissures that would lead shortly to cracking and chunking.

1) Basic Bedding In
To initiate some heat in the Brake Discs and Pads

● 4 to 6 stops with Medium Brake Pressure from approximately 150km/h (90MPH) to approximately 80km/h (50MPH) - without allowing Brakes to Lock!

● Distance between each Brake stop approximately 300-400 meters (300-400 yards).

● The Pads should not reach temperatures above 400° C (550° F).

● No Dragging!

● Blocking any Air Ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures more quickly.

2) Immediately after Basic Bedding at High Speed

● One stop with Medium to Heavy Brake Pressure, without allowing the Brakes to Lock from approximately 180 km/h (110MPH) to approximately 80km/h (50MPH).

● No Dragging!

● Recovery Stops with light Brake Pressure 3 to 4 times. (Cleaning Procedure)

● Repeat the High-Speed stops, including Recover Stops, 2 to 3 times.

● Allow a Cool-Off distance of approximately 500m (500 yards) between High Speed Stops.

Brake Discs

If possible, Pads should be bedded on used, but NOT worn-out, Brake Discs. PAGID Brake Pad Material can be used either on Solid, Grooved, or Cross-Drilled Discs. For Disc Bedding, please refer to Disc Manufacturers' own instructions.

Mounting New Pads on Used Discs

Edges of Pad surface should be filed roughly to 45° to ensure that the Pad carries fully and evenly and is not touching the edge of the Disc. Do not use Discs which are Pre-Bedded or have been used with Friction Material other than PAGID.


Now, obviously, at the speeds recommended, an appropriate road should be selected and sufficient caution should be excercised. If such conditions do not exists close to you, consider changing the Pads when you arrive at a suitable location. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 12-31-2005 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 01-02-2006, 01:57 AM   #7
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they recommend that YOU file the pads 45 degrees, this is amazing to me, you would think that it was done at the factory stage if it is better, then sold on to the customers.
just a thought about drill disc marking your pads, can they be fitted the wrong way if this is possible? don't know just a thought!

the other thing about brake pads wear is that since asbestos was removed from the pads for health reasons all pads manufacturer had to change their compound and this sometimes gives a squeaky noise depending on weather conditions, i remember having just had the discs and pads changed I was seating in slow traffic behind 3 old small fiat cars and everytime we had to brake the only car that squeak was ......my Boxster!!

Last edited by olly986; 01-02-2006 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 01-02-2006, 06:58 AM   #8
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Some people recommend dragging the leading edge of the pad on a concrete floor a few feet to chamfer the edge...others say just use some anti-squeal on the rear. I've had good results with anti-squeal and hard break in.

I have seen zimmerman rotors develop cracks must faster than factory ones (yes, I know Zim is an OE supplier, but the rotors are different)...I stick with Porsche rotors.

Love to know if anyone can recommend a low-dust pad that works OK for street and occasional track use??
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Old 01-03-2006, 07:16 AM   #9
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Thanks for all the tips everyone!

I believe I am going back to stock rotors and sticking with Pagid "Blue" pads as they have very low dust.
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1983 911 SC Coupe 3.0 Gaurds Red (restoration, in pieces)
199? 993 Coupe Gaurds Red (lurking for....)
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Old 02-24-2006, 06:06 PM   #10
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Thought I would revive this old thread of mine and see if anyone has any additional input before I purchase rotors and pads???????

Anyone??? Going once,Going twice......
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2000 2.7 Lapis Blue Boxster, Sports Pkg, Lit, Tip, Exhaust, De amber'fied
1983 911 SC Coupe 3.0 Gaurds Red (restoration, in pieces)
199? 993 Coupe Gaurds Red (lurking for....)
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Old 02-24-2006, 07:05 PM   #11
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yeah, where can one purchase the the OEM S rotors with the exact same hole pattern and specs that are on my 03 S? Please don't say Zimmerman. I've checked them out and they don't look like the rotors on my S. If they are in fact the oem supplier what is the part # for the OEM S rotors. I've asked this question a few different places and surprisingly nodbody seems to have an answer.
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Old 02-24-2006, 08:12 PM   #12
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I was informed Zimmerman is the supplier to Porsche on rotors, but seems if you buy after market Zimmermans, they are not the same

I have drilled Zimmermans and after 11 months, they look like crap???

I would not reccomend aftermarket Zimmermans as mine did not last 11 months.

I was hoping someone would pipe up and give a success story on another mfg of rotors, else I am going back to dealer over the counter Porsche rotors. $$$
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2000 2.7 Lapis Blue Boxster, Sports Pkg, Lit, Tip, Exhaust, De amber'fied
1983 911 SC Coupe 3.0 Gaurds Red (restoration, in pieces)
199? 993 Coupe Gaurds Red (lurking for....)
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Old 02-24-2006, 09:13 PM   #13
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I'd rather pay the dealer mucho bucks for the real deal than get some cheap zimmerman knockoffs. just me.
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Old 02-24-2006, 09:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
I'd rather pay the dealer mucho bucks for the real deal than get some cheap zimmerman knockoffs. just me.
I second that one!! from one that went the other way
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"The Rodney Dangerfield of Porsche mods"

2000 2.7 Lapis Blue Boxster, Sports Pkg, Lit, Tip, Exhaust, De amber'fied
1983 911 SC Coupe 3.0 Gaurds Red (restoration, in pieces)
199? 993 Coupe Gaurds Red (lurking for....)
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Old 02-25-2006, 06:40 AM   #15
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Ditto, I have had good experience with the Porsche supplied parts.

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