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Got some meat on it? Me thinks you replaced it at the exact right time.
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maybe i should have used the word "skin" instead of "meat":D |
LNE retrofit kit is doing its way in (ordered from pelican parts), and will get here by Friday.
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Just seeing your house is making me sick, I have to leave NY! I don't care if I sell at a loss I'm sick of freezing and paying the highest taxes to do it...
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you should see my neighbors faces when they cross my garage.:eek: they all think i'm crazy. you are always welcome to come for a visit. we do have a guest room, and guests are always welcome :D |
Thanks dude but I'm as serious as a heart attack about leaving NY. I currently live in my rental, if I can sell my other house when the renter is out in April that will get me started. I'm so motivated I'm willing to eat some of the 50K I put into the house simply because in some areas of NY you just can't expect sweat equity returns. Most other states you own a house 23 years and you would be looking at a substantial windfall, not good ol NY!!
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What oil filter are you using and did you do a delete on the oil "cooler"?
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If you are upside down we can help you out with the bank to do a Short Sale, Ghosty. It is kind of my thing. Been doing them for a long time. PM me for details.
Anything to get you outta there! You are too nice to be a NYer! :confused: All things being equal….Selling, even at a loss may take a back seat (if we had one), to the amount you will continue to pay in taxes, higher utility costs, food, etc. |
I own them both homeboy, the issue is I need to get reasonable return from them for my future. After a while, when you age, you see that sometimes the smaller amount of profit you make is the price of freedom to move forward.
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i'm using Wix 51042 withe the LN spin on adapter. i just replaced the O-Rings on the oil cooler as preventive maintenance. didn't know there is a mod for "oil cooler" delete. please, educate me on that. |
last night i completed the replacement of the AOS and the coolant tank.
all together toke me 3 hours, and wasn't that bad (i will post some pics and tips later on). i did most of the job from under the car, and no doubt that when the trans is removed, the AOS is a piece of cake. the coolant tank is another story. i would like to take this opportunity, and salute each and every one of you, that replaced one of them from the top. again, it wasn't that bad for me, but even with the transmission out the coolant tank is a pain. i can only imagine how it would be with the trans installed. |
No matter how many words are written, till you are under the car with everything removed do you truly understand why it is far better to do this now! It's a great feeling when you keep knocking these things out isn't it? Looking forward to seeing the pictures.
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wanted to update about the progress i made this week. but most of the pics i took of the AOS and coolant tank, came out blurry. so ill show what i got and give some tips.
i started with the coolant tank, and as i mentioned earlier it wasn't easy, even when the transmission is removed. took me sometime to figure where to disconnect the lines and to actually disconnect them. basically the lines should be disconnected from the clamps that are closer to the engine side, including the oil filler tube. then i pooled the coolant tank into the trunk (as much as i could), and disconnected the other clamp of the oil tube. once i removed the oil tube, i was able to take the coolant tank out of the car. this is a pic with the new tank in, but you can see the gap you can work with to remove the oil filler tube. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1355776450.jpg with the tank placed it on a bench i removed all the hoses from the old tank to the new one. obviousness, i inspected each one of them to make sure they are not showing any signs of cracking. also moved the coolant level sensor to the new. at this point you must remember to make a hole for the dipstick in the new coolant tank. i forgot and had to do that with the tank in the car, which make it a bit difficult. i just used a utility knife to carve the hole. when the tank was out, i moved to the AOS. wasn't difficult at all to remove the lines, but i struggled a bit with disconnecting the lower bellow. after few minutes of trying, i decided its a waist of time and just cut it off. i suggest doing that, especially if working from the top. the new AOS comes with a new bellow, so no point of spending time and blood on the old one. looking back at it, this is probably the most difficult part. the upper hose of the AOS is very easy to disconnect and the lower one is not that bad ether. this is not the best picture, but you can see the bellow you need to cut. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/AOS1355777334.jpg i was thinking to replace all relevant parts of the AOS, but i had to Change my plans. just as a reference for you who will think about doing it in the future. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1355777694.jpg part #5, is the lower hose of the AOS. goes to good knows where. spent 10 minutes to figure it out with the new parts in my hand (also got part 6), where the hell it suppose to go. looks like the whole intake manifold needs to be remove in order to replace these parts. i'm going to keep them, and hope ill never get to use them :D looks like a real PITA to do. edit: the decision to use a new oil filler tube was smart though. hate to think of doing this job all over again in the future just for that. |
Sunday morning. change of plans.
my neighbor called me and tells me he cannot get into his car (box99). looks like the door lever is broken. disconnected his battery and removed the door cover. found out the lever itself is disconnects from the mechanism. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/door1355779975.jpg took a magnet, and swiped it on the bottom of the door from the inside. this is what i found: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1355780191.jpg put every thing back in place, and sent my neighbor to buy a lottery ticket. :D |
I need a neighbor like you! Nice work:cheers:
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it has been almost 3 weeks since i finished my project, but couldn't find the time to update the thread.
i will post some impressions, to help those who follow. so i will pick up where i left. ;) less then a week after my last post, i received my new bearing. i put it in the freezer, connected to the installation tool (in a Ziploc bag) next morning i jumped back in, put the engine at TDC and locked the pulley. removed the lower cam plug on both banks and made sure the "groove" on the cam is seating vertically. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359731097.jpg bank 1 http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359731119.jpg bank2 http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359731167.jpg just for additional reference, i marked the cam on bank 2 with a Sharpie, but i don't think it is necessary. i installed the cam look tool on bank one, using a 6X10mm bolt i got from Ace. this step is very crucial. i can definitely see how the tool can be installed without locking the cam. MAKE SURE THE TOOL IS FULLY SEATED IN THE GROOVE. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359731329.jpg |
Once again ! Why aren't there any good DIY'ers up here in New England ?? :mad:
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after checking myself 5 times, and making sure all is in place, i was ready to remove the old bearing.
started by removing the 2 tensioners. the one that holds the IMS chain (seats horizontally next to bank 2): http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359733270.jpg http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359733865.jpg second tensioner, from bank 1: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359733933.jpg http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359733954.jpg remove the center nut of the IMS cover, using a large screwdriver and 13 mm wrench: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359734043.jpg |
removed 3 bolts from IMS cover:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359734160.jpg twisted the cover clockwise, and used small pray bar to remove cover. take your time and be gentle with it. it will come out. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359734303.jpg once the cover is removed, remove the circle clip. put you finger in the center, to prevent it from falling inside the engine. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359734426.jpg the bearing is ready to receive the removing tool. i played with the center stud to check for play. non what so ever. |
at this point, i wasn't sure if i was doing it right, but it worked, so i dont care.:D
the extraction tools comes with two studs. i installed the short one on the bearing. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359734835.jpg then the long one on top of it. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359734893.jpg slide the removal tool with the washer and nut (hand tight). http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359734946.jpg as recommended by LN, i sprayed the surface between the washer and the tool with WD-40 http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359735189.jpg |
for extracting the bearing, i wanted to have the best grip and torque i can get.
so i slide a 16mm wrench on the nut, and held the center bolt with a 13 mm socket. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359736214.jpg holding the ratchet in my left hand and turning the socket clockwise, extracted the bearing with no effort at all. in fact, i was a littel bit sorpraised how easy it came out. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359736365.jpg one of my fears, was to find out the IMS is not centered (based on other posts i read). i was happy to see it was perfectly centered, and i do not need to remove the third tensioner (a true PITA to remove). http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359736573.jpg |
here are some pics of the bearing on and off the tool.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359736818.jpg http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359736836.jpg http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359736868.jpg removed the plastic seal. no grease, but also no play in the bearing. in fact, it looks brand new after 77K. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359737266.jpg |
O.K.
so now is the big moment. after cleaning the bearing area, with some alcohol and lint free cloth, i went to the freezer and took the bearing out. at this point some parts of my body started shaking and as i mentioned in other posts, i'm not talking about my hands :chicken: i took the bearing (connected to the installation tool) and placed it as square as i could in the shaft. i decided to start with a rubber hammer and move from there. started with light taps, and the bearing went right in. in some point (after 10 taps more or less) it didn't move no more. i removed the installation tool and inspected the bearing. i noticed that most of the bearing is in. put the tool back on, taped it twice with a metal hammer, and that's it. it was all the way in. removed the tool and installed the new clip.(again. put your finger in center of clip to prevent falling inside the engine). http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359738402.jpg once the clip was in, i rotated it 360 degrees to confirm it is fully seated. i think the key to complete this step in the most easy and smooth way, is to install the bearing as soon as it gets out of the freezer. i didn't rush myself during the bearing installation, but i defiantly didn't spent time (that is why i don't have pics of the installation). bottom line, it was way easy then i expected. |
need to go now.
more updates later ;) |
installing the new IMS cover using 3 6X25mm bolts from Ace.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359756016.jpg using the bolts will help you drive the cover gradually to its exact location. i turned each bolt one turn at a time until the cover was flush with the case. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359756211.jpg removed the bolts, and installed the encapsulated ones, supplied with the LN kit. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359756306.jpg some CurilT and the center nut. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359756429.jpg |
the tensioners got new O-Rings and washers, and re installed.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359756580.jpg for the IMS chain tensioner, i found it more easy if you push it with a screwdriver and then tighten it by hand. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359756719.jpg i then removed the locking tools (camshaft and pulley) and turned the engine couple of times to make sure both camshafts return to the same position at TDC. once it was confirmed, i installed new cam plugs. the whole process took me 40-45 minutes to complete. not bad at all. |
so far my winter project was going great, and didn't have any special issues, except the broken bolts that was easy to remove.
but then i got to the RMS. man, just looking back at it makes me furious again. i thought that will be the easy part, especially after completing the IMSB under an hour. i was wrong. first i had hard time removing it. the technique with the screw and pliers didn't work well, i ended up filing on of my prey bars to fit and the screw head, and used a piece of wood as a pivot. i highly recommend using one of these to make it easy on you: SG Tool Aid 81500 Junior Slugger Slide Hammer Dent Puller : Amazon.com : Automotive putting the new one was even worst. i have to admit i was not mentally prepared for the job. i was sure it will go easy, so i pounded it with a hammer using a 3" PVC tube. the RMS went in crooked. that was the end of the day for me. i found myself on Saturday 12PM, with nothing to do. i was hoping the finis the car that weekend. was so frustrated since i work on the cars during weekends, and now i wasted half of Saturday, and all of Sunday. :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: Monday morning i made my firs encounter with my local dealership. paid 24$ for the RMS, and realized why they are called stillerships. Tuesday was a day off, so i gave it another try. i messed it up again. you really need patience with that thing.(which i don't have) for the first time i gave up. started searching the web for the SIR RMS tool, with no success. placed an order for new seal and some other parts i needed, and waited for the following weekend. when i got the new seal, i meditated for half an hour, and promised myself to take the time and not to get upset.:D i started pounding on it real slow with very light taps over the seal, with a piece of flat plastic bar. every time i started loosing my patience, i walked away, smoked a sig, drank some cold water, and got back. the most difficult part is to drive the seal up to the point where is flush with the case. then i took the PVC pipe and drove it to the correct depth. the whole thing took me over an hour :( next time, i get the tool :cool: i would like to take this opportunity to thank Heiko and Hal (AKA whipE350) for the support and the good advise. |
next step.
installing new flywheel and clutch kit. used a home made tool to lock the flywheel and torque the bolts to spec. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359761555.jpg if you are installing a new flywheel, look at the whit dot. this will help you locate the hole in the flywheel, that goes over the pin in the crankshaft. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359761677.jpg after torquing the bolts in star pattern, and in two stages , i used the template from the pelican website to tighten the additional 90 degrees. what i did, was marking the bolt on the top, and torquing it to the 90 degrees mark. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359762238.jpg http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359762266.jpg since i have a memory of a fish, that also helped me to see which bolt i already tighten. clutch disk and pressure plat was installed. using the centering tool and the same method of star pattern and several stages of torquing . http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359762458.jpg |
next day, i installed the transmission that got new
Clutch Release Lever Retaining Spring Clamp for Clutch Release Lever Ball Pin for Clutch Release Lever Throw Out Bearing Guide Tube and rubber o ring (for clutch guide sleeve) greased the needed parts and installed the transmission. the transmission jack i got from HF, helped a lot, since it can be adjusted to any direction. i had to turn the engine bit by bit to get the flywheel to align with the transmission shaft, but after all it wasn't that bad, and i was able to drive it in myself. i installed the transmission bolts and used them to drive the transmission for the remaining 1 cm gap. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1359763191.jpg |
once transmission was in, i installed the mounts, half shafts and exhaust.
put some coolant in the reservoir, and oil in the engine. now this is the important part. i removed the fuel pump relay, and cranked the engine 3 times for 10 seconds at a time, to allow oil pressure to build up in the tenssioners, and to get to the other parts of the engine. i replaced the relay, and cranked the engine. success! the engine started right up and no parts was flying out of it :dance: i started bleeding the coolant system and added more oil to the engine. at one point, i started hearing a faint squeaking noise coming from the clutch area. the noise disappeared when i pressed the clutch, or raved the engine :confused: i decided to take the car for a run. when i got back the noise was gone, and never came back since. i put 350 mile on the car since and so far (touch woo) it looks great. the car with the new clutch is twice the fun to drive. the firs time i pressed it, i almost made a hole in the floor :D :cheers: edit: THE END. |
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Can pack up the tools and jump on a plane. Never been to massachusetts before :D Disclaimer: ambient temperature must be at 70 degrees farenhite or above, for selected dates. |
I can't believe that I missed this entire thread! Great write up and excellent pictures. I have to say one of the funniest parts was your fact of being nervous about the install of the IMS bearing! I remember having Robin in the garage and through the whole process, I kept telling her, if this fails the whole project was a wash! Nothing more satisfying on seeing it back in place and the clean cover plate buttoned up!
A really nice write up again. |
Thanks Meir!
You have done more than inspire me to do it myself! Great write up, excellent pictures, great timing. I have the Bentley Manual, LN Engineering instructions, Pelican instructions, & the "Meir Manual"…do I need anything else? Getting started this week. As soon as Pelican delivers. Thanks again for the confidence. ;) |
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couldn't describe it better myself. thanks for the inspiration by the way. i remember showing your original thread to my wife. when Robin tells you she don't like to see you working under the car with the jack stands. guess what, it got me a scissor lift :D so, thank you Robin. |
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don't use the pelican instructions. it is more confusing then helping (in my case at least). follow the LN instructions step by step, and you will be fine. use the Bentley manual to get the torque values, and writ it down. it will save you a lot of time during assembly (you will not have to go to the book every minute). in fact, here is a link to the table i made. https://www.dropbox.com/s/853n51vzy8fqnlm/Torque%20values.docx just get a good pair of latex underwear, to keep everything is place while assembling the bearing. JD sales them for 10$ on his website, but they only come in speed yellow :D |
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Here it is, first part of friday evening, and I'm broke down cuz I destroyed the RMS trying to install it. So frustrated. My machinist finished my flywheel, so I'm ready..... just to be foiled by the RMS. Do any of you have any tips for the installation? I went and bought the abs pipe to drive it, but I cannot get it to go in straight. No matter what I do. Tried it a dozen times before I finally decided the new seal was no longer useable. Then I tried it a dozen more to see if I could devise a technique for the next one.... didn't work. I'm so frustrated with this right now. Any help is appreciated. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk |
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I have the Porsche tool, and I can let you borrow it. |
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Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk |
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