Covnertible Top Won't Go Down (during top switch)
 

Hi All,

I have been in the process of changing the convertible top on my 98 due to the typical rear window crack. I started two weekends ago and got through taking the top off.

However, when I went to the car this past weekend to continue and pushed the switch on the dash to lower the frame, nothing happened.

The microswitch that the latch above the windshield attaches to seems to be fine as the windows roll down when the latch is released. And the parking brake light is on.

Does anyone have any ideas of what could have happened? Seems odd that it was working perfectly one weekend and suddenly not the next.

Thanks!

Did you check the Fuse for the top's motor?

I checked both fuses and unfortunately that was not it either...

just fixed same issue in my buddy's 99 last week.
turned out to be the top relay.
i removed it, cleaned the contacts and placed it back. to top came to life for 10 seconds and died again. problem solved with a new one.

on the 97-00 models there is another micro switch at the back. right on top of the top motor.check that as well.
if you can reach it.

Viagra :dance::dance::dance::dance::dance::dance:

it was the relay! Thanks everyone.

Hello everyone. I have an issue with my 98 boxster top. It is in the closed position and it is not opening anymore. The mechanic had told me its the microswitch but with the top closed cant get to it. Does anyone have any experience in replacing it with the top down or is there another way of getting to it to replacing it. Also when I put the top in the opening position the window go down 2 inches and there is a knocking noise coming from convertible top motor but not opening.
Thanks

From your last comment, it sounds like (one or both of) your V-levers may have over-rotated. The knocking noise is the result of the half-moon gear going past the 50th tooth and then being pulled sharply back by the very large spring that is inside the "hydraulic" rear pushrod.

The mechanic may be referring to the B-Pillar microswitch, which is located behind the cylindrical carpet-covered trim panel behind and below your left shoulder (as you sit in the driver's seat). It may be that the small silver lever on that microswitch has to be adjusted to initiate the stop sequence a fraction of a second earlier.

Follow these instructions to open the top if the top is still stuck in the closed position:

The easiest way I have found to access the 'works' if the top is stuck in the closed position is to partially and gradually open the top by using a cordless drill. Since you described the power drain and the loud cracking sound, your drive cables are probably intact and thus you can use this method after unlatching the top latch.
First, reach under or through one of the roll bar hoops so that you can grab the thin metal bar that runs from left to right and that is attached to the rearmost edge of the black vinyl apron under the rear bow of the convertible top frame. That long bar (flat metal bar with a 90 degree bend, about 2 1/2 feet long) is attached to the rear firewall in the convertible top well by means of two small plastic brackets or receptacles, one on each side, about 1 foot to each side of center, 8 to 10 inches from the level of the clamshell when it is in the closed position. Reach for one side at a time and twist it off the brackets by turning it down and rotating it towards you. That will free the vinyl apron from the firewall and give you access to the sides of the electric motor.

The electric motor is located exactly in the center of that rear firewall and, in a '98 also has a small lever mounted on the top of it. You will see the black vinyl sheath of each of the two drive cables going into the sides of the electric motor. There is a brass colored upside down U-shaped clip preventing each cable from being pulled out of the side of the electric motor. The U-shaped clip has a little tiny shelf at its top surface and that is what you should push upwards on to remove the clip. Once you have pushed the clip up and off, grab the cable where it goes into the side of the electric motor and pull it in an outboard direction. Do that on each side.

Once you have pulled the vinyl sheath off, you will see the inner steel (speedometer-type) cable sticking out by about 3/4 of an inch.

Put one of the inner cables into the drill chuck and set the power drill on a LOW TORQUE setting. Now operate the drill while observing the direction of rotation of the V-lever on that side. The V-lever is located just behind the base of the B-pillar, below the level of the top surface of the rear-quarter panel. If you are spinning the drill in the wrong direction, you will hear that loud cracking noise again as the black "hydraulic" pushrod pulls the half-moon gear past its last (50th) tooth and the top will NOT start to open. In that case, spin the drill in the opposite direction and you will see the top start to open slowly.

Just spin that side for a few seconds, then disconnect the drill from that side and insert the other drive cable into the chuck. Repeat the same procedure as above until the other side of the front edge of the top has reached the same spot at the side you did first. Then go a little further with that side.

Now just repeat, alternating each side and that will allow you to open the top until you get the clamshell in the 45 degree position. That will give you clear access to the electric motor so that you can re-insert the drive cables and then install the U-shaped clips to lock them in.

That should do it.

If you are near Freeport, you can stop by if you are still having difficulties. I'd be glad to give you a hand.

Regards, Maurice.