Paint Care for Black S
 

Just bought my first Boxster. I love this thing. Had a 1987 Carrera and I like the Boxster better for many reasons. Anyone willing to share their secrets on removing the spider webs and microscopic pits in the clear coat I inherited from the former owner would be greatly appreciated. This is my first black car. I have already got it looking a lot better by using a Maguire’s 3 step product (Wax Cleaner, polish and Carnauba wax) I am also using another Maguire’s product called Showtime that you spray on and wipe off with a micro fiber towel. Next step is to find a good detailer that will use some professional polishing products to really get into the clear coat (I am assuming thre car has a clear coat) and get the scratches out. Car looks great in the right light. Look at it closely at high noon on a sunny day and the imperfections seem to jump out at you. tiny pits that are only in the clear coat? and spider webs mostly. Anyone ever had the whole clear coat re-shot?. This may be necessary. Since I purchased te car I have been looking closely at a lot of different high end black cars ( BMR,s, Mercedes, Porsches ect) and I have determined that almost all of them suffer from this problem as well. Since the car is a driver for me I guess I have to realize that these things are inevitable. Suggestions on treatment are very welcome.

www.sportscarcare.com is a great place to see what Menzerna products and a Porter Cable buffer can do for spyder and swirl marks. The Meguire's three step system one can buy in retail stores does come as a recommendation from others on this list, but I'm thinking the Menzerna stuff is going to be better.

I too have a black boxster and I've bought a PC buffer, the buffing pads sportscarcare.com sells and the Menzerna products, which come highly recommended and are evidently used quite a bit in detail shops.

I'll post before and after pics of my cars after giving them the full treatment of claybar, then the Menzerna final polish II, then Klasse all in one and finally, a nice carnauba wax to keep it all shiny and provide more depth.

Very Good, Thanks for the response. I will look forward to the pics.....

I just glanced at your FAQ page - Thanks for all that info as well.

On a comletely different subject - What are the details surroundoing the new engine and trans at 92K Miles?? I was hoping to get 150 to 200K out of both..... Forgive me if its on your FAQ page. I have not read the whole thing.

The new engine was installed a few days before the wholesaler bought the car at the Miami auction, evidently. When I picked it up the engine was pristine, and two mechanics told me it was a brand new engine installed a matter of days before. No road grime, grease, oil leaks, etc.

My mechanic estimated the new engine went in at 81k, I bought it with 82k on it. I put in a tranny with approximately 40k or less on it from a salvage yard here in Texas. The originally tranny developed a "brraaaap" sound in first gear that I suspected would become far more than a sound with the amount of torque the new engine produced, so I spent the 2,500 to buy it and have my mechanic install it (that's the total price).

My car was one of those horror stories from the beginning. I bought it cheap off ebay ($15k) sight unseen and flew to Miami to drive it back home to Houston. Made the trip home just fine, but the AC went out along the way (crushed O rings from the engine install), and I discovered the car had been spun out into a curb (cheap replacement rims, a bent rear strut and front sub frame damage). I found pot in the car (flakes-o-plenty in the cracks of both seats), numerous rusty lighters under the seats, and both the trunks had been overfilled with luggage and the driver or passenger just jammed down the lids, creating "reverse dings" in the hood and trunk lids (from the inside out, as it were.) One or more of the three previous owners were party animals and neglected the care and maintenance the car requires. I'm guessing the first owner babied his new car and got tired of it. The second enjoyed it and got tired of it. The third one bought it and beat on it good!

I've put about 6k in repairs into the car and now it's very dependable, drives great and I can sleep at night. That page on my web site (and the other one that gives my top ten things to check for when buying a Boxster, accessed through the front page) are all a result of my "learn as you replace and repair stuff" on the car.

Had I had the ability to go back in time a year, I would have saved my money and saved far more and just now be buying a 2000 S in far better shape with no damage and hopefully, find a garage queen. I just got ants in my pants and bought the cheapest 97 I could find. But, with that said I'd have to also say that the last year has been filled with learning experiences and the challenge has been fun... sort of!

But God has a sense of humor... other boxster owners here, with far younger cars and with far fewer miles have had problems and breakdowns I have yet to have with the same original equipment installed. Go figure.

Thanks for the story. I have had few nightmare cars of my own. Sounds like you are doing OK if you only have $21K in it, excluding the aggravation factor. especially since you got a brand new power plant. There is some value there! Thank God the car found its way to someone who would take care of it. Thanks again for making public your gained knowledge. This is the stuff you cannot get anywhere else. There are allot of people out these who don't get that sharing of knowledge concept.

My new car seems to be OK for the most part. Runs extremely strong. Needed brake pads which I have replaced. Also needed 30K Maintenance which I had the dealer do some of (never again) and I did the rest. Rear window was separating from the top. This was also a Warrantee issue. Coolant bottle had a crack (done under warrantee as well) Like this tread got started, car needs TLC for the paint. Also needs the windshield trim replaced due to oxidation of same. I have another local dealer who says he will do this under warrantee am also looking into repairs for the scratches on the rims. I take a lot of pride in bringing my cars back to life. I have had many including an 2001 BMW M5, 87 Carerra and a 1970 914. This 2002 Boxster S is my favorite out off all of them. I am looking forward to taking care of it as well as driving it!

I had a black daily driver four five years. here's my advice.

1. Get the Porter Cable like RandallNeighbohnr says. Swirling can be removed.

2. To avoid future swirls STOP using Microfiber towels. You want to use a towel
with tufted loop end and not a split fiber like MF. Those towel are intended for cleaning interiors, plastic, rubber but not painted surfaces. Its overkill for a well maintained paint surface. The big downfall is that while MF is good at trapping debris unfortunately its also a pain to get the debris out of the towel. I've washed several times and still see bits of it in the split fibers. You DON'T want that rubbing against your paint. Get a dedicated concourse buffing towel for final buffing, this and washing/drying is where most people swirl up their paint.

3. Try the ever popular Klasse twins. Meguiars NXT is good at hiding the remaining swirls. Wax your wheels weekly and use Raggtopp on your softop.

I have ordered the following items from Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies;

http://www.topoftheline.com/index.html

Porter Cable Polisher Package #EQ-PC7424P
Auto Detailing Clay #TOL-CA308 (8 oz. bar)
Cotton Baby Diapers: #TL-DIAPS12 (Pkg. of 12)
Klasse All-In-One: Klasse #Kl-AIO16
Swirl Remover Light Cut: #HT-61QT 32oz
Scratch Remover Medium #HT-300PT (16oz)
Cut

This should do the trick. Of course the last treatment will be plenty of coats of pure carnauba wax.

As always I will post the results.

I think you will be pleased with the Klasse's effect on Black. I use the All in One and the Sealent, multiple coasts on Black.

Never disappoints.

Good luck.

:cheers:

Porsche FAQ
 

Randall, thank you that is the best and most informative information I have every received regarding my Porsche. I did not know about the Fog lamps.










2000 S Black/Beige

100% disagree. I've been using MF towels for years and still have never seen a swirl mark. Maybe it's the quality of towel. Or, you could get the best of both worlds and get an AlpineFiber MF towel - loops AND MF.
100% agree. Klasse is awesome. Waxing weekly though? What is the point of that? Klasse (or Wheel Wax, or RejeX) on the wheels 2x a year is more than sufficient.

I've been using Klasse all-in-one and High Gloss sealant glaze... both are excellent... A good friend of mine suggested I try Menzerna FMJ (also a polymer sealant). Yesterday, after a good washing and drying on Friday evening, I used my Porter Cable to polish the finish with a white pad and Menzerna Final Polish II... next a black finnese pad with Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze ... followed by a hand application of FMJ... I am very impressed!... It really produced a brilliant, yet deep shine, I also found it easier to apply and remove as compared to Klasse... Of course longevity still needs to be determined, but I really think it looks better than my up till now favorite P21S carnauba over klasse finish... If you give it a try I don't think you'll be dissapointed.

good carpet recommendation:

I couldn't find my bottle of Einmann Fabrik carpet cleaner so I used the Sonus Wunder Wasche instead. It's intended for washing Microfiber and Concours buffing towels but did an excellent job cleaning my red carpets. I used the Meguiars Gold Class carpet brush and a cap ful for both carpets. Soaked the carpets thoroughly to get out the soap and used the brush to squeeze out the excess water. Carpets dried in ten minutes. Looks like new.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...15_41_full.jpg

Will I be able to get good results from the Klasse all-in-one and then the sealant glaze by hand (using good 'ol elbow grease)? Or is the Porter Cable manditory. I'm not too sure I want to take power tools to my baby's surface!

To quote myself:

Process:

Wash; P21S Bodywork shampoo
Dry: The blower that my wife uses to dry our dogs and then Meg's MF towell for few spots remaining
Swirl removal: Meg's #9 with PC and Sonus orange pad, Meg's MF towel for residue
Polish: P21S Paintwork Cleansing Lotion with PC and Sonus blue pad, remove with amother Meg's MF
Wax P21S Concours Carnuba wax by hand and removed with PC and MF bonnet over green pad

I applied the Klasse all in one by hand on a damp microfiber towel and removed it with a damp microfiber towel. No scratches, swirls, etc. Of course, I didn't remove it with a circular pattern. I apply it up and down and take it of left to right.

Feels silky smooth after it's applied. :)

Depends very much on how badly damaged (scratches and water spots) your existing finish is. Use as little force as possible. I've been busy for the last three days detailing my car. Pics to follow....

Are you folks finding carnauba goes well over the Klasse?

It's very common to apply a carnauba over a synthetic. I know a lot of people that put P21s over Klasse or Zaino.

Carnauba over SG is not always an enhancement.
I layered SG (30 coats) on the Boxster over the course of a month last November.
adding s100 Carnauba didn't really make it better. Ditto when I only did 6 layers.
Carnauba reflects light off a black surface in a very different way vs. SG alone.
And once you add Carnauba to the mix you can't use SG anymore, you can only use Carnauba as a topper. Sonus Carnauba spritz (pinkish liquid) works well for weekly use.

SG alone, layered heavily gives black a candied look. Kinda of like if you added ten coats of clear coat. Some people think this looks too bling bling. But SG layered heavily will give your car very good protection. Carnauba over the bare paint is just more of a dressing.

Btw, apply All in One with a foam pad. Its very thick and doesn't need to be spread heavily. All though liberaly applying it doesn't hurt, jus more to remove and more little bits of dried powder to brush away.
SG should be applied using a loop end microfiber towel or pad. Sonus Acrylic SPritz is a god day after spray to remove streaking (consequence of applying too much SG)
I HIGHLY recommend staying clear of split end microfiber pads/towel on paint. You'll know by the prickly feeling when you run hand over it. Sonus makes nice waffle weave towels. Carnauba should be removed ONLY with a concourse grade buffing towel.
Actually all buffing should be done with a dedicated buffing towel. Keep it in a Zip lock bag to keep it dirt free.

Thanks to all for the advice. I put on the first 2 coats of SG last night. Results were awesome. I was beginning to wonder if I would ever get my paint the way I wanted it. It looks like it will be comming out just fine, and that's great as the former owner of my car put lots of small scratches in the clear. I don't see the need for the carnauba over the SG at this time. I don't think I will be going for 30 coats of SG, probably 5 or so.