Headlight switch?
 

Does anyone know how to remove the switch for the head lights? I tried the two screws on the side panel, but something else was still holding it on. My head lamps wont turn sometimes and I was told i most likely need a new switch. I found the part for $50, but have no idead whats behing the actual circular knob. Any help or diagrams would be appreciated.

Partial answer:

Here is a recent post on changing the ignition switch. The removal of the left side dash piece is the same. Once the dash piece is dangling, you can access the light switch from both sides. I think it is held in place by a couple of retaining rings: the top one is threaded and comes off with pliers. The second one looks maybe like a spring clip of some type. I didn't actually remove that one for the ignition.
As always - carefully note and mark all wires before unplugging them. Digital camera is great for this. Not all tools are needed for the light switch. Good luck - and let us know how it turns out.

Tools needed:
#15 torx screwdriver
#15 bit for ratchet
set of jeweler's screwdrivers
pliers
dental pick (to remove the red screw sealant)
threadlock (red)

1. No. 15 torx screwdriver: the 3rd screw, the one in the lower right of the black plastic ring on the light switch where the lighted positions are indicated, can only be reached with a screwdriver since the screw is down inside a short tube. A rachet or nutdriver with tip will not go in it.
2. No. 15 torx bit with ratchet handle: the 2 screws on the left side of the wrap-around plastic cover (which holds the light switch and left side air vent) can only be reached with something shorter (the screwdriver above wouldn't fit).
3. To remove the left dash cover: a. remove the 2 screws on the left side using a ratchet. b. remove the light switch knob by pulling it out away from the dash, hold it out, and insert a jeweler's screwdriver up the little slot on the bottom to release the knob. c. using the #15 torx screwdriver, remove the 3rd screw from the lower right side of the black ring on the light switch where the light positions are marked. d. pull the cover out at the botttom first, giving a firm tug to dislodge the friction clamps. Lift the bottom away, then pull the top away. Lay the cover down, it will hang on the wiring harness. Do NOT disconnect the light switch.
4. Remove the left vent duct from under the dash. It is an accordian affair. Compress the accordian, remove the end closet to the center console first, then pull the unit down and out. There are no screws or fasteners!
5. Look in the hole left by the removal of the vent cover. There is a short curved section of air duct held in place by one philips head screw. Remove the screw, and pull out the duct section.
6. Place a shop light on the floor facing up.
7. When I got to this stage - the switch is wide open and I changed it in 2 minutes.
8. Pull the wiring harness off the back of the switch. Scrape the red glue out of the 2 screw holes. A dental pick does this easily. Use a jewelers screwdriver (2nd to largest) and un-tighten the 2 screws. Do NOT remove the screws, it isn't necessary. Just back them out enough to remove the switch. Pull the switch off. I found it useful to use a flathead screwdiver to separate the switch from the ignition tumbler. My technique was one hand in through the hole made by removeing the cover, and the other hand reaching up from below the dash.
9. Plug the new switch in. It can only fit one way. There are 3 plastic positioning tits - one square and 2 round. Line up the square tit first, and you're done. Re-connect the wiring harness.
10. Tighten the 2 set screws firmly. Put a couple of drops of thread sealer on top. I used red to match OEM. Blue and green are available if you're into fen shui.
11. Replace the short curved duct with the one phillips screw.
12. Re-insert the left dash cover, top first then bottom. Test the key at this stage. I did an oil level test since I was inside a garage and didn't want to get asphixiated.
13. Replace the 3 torx screws.
14. Press on the light switch knob. You're done.
Once you get it apart the first time and see how it works, it's easy. Have the right tools on hand the first time. I didn't, took 3 trips to Advance Auto.

Hope this helps a little too. It's sideways so it will fit within the restrictions of uploaded files. Just print it landscape.

It was hurting my head trying to read it sideways :)

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/2...tswitch9rm.jpg

This is EXACTLY what i was in need of, thank you. I'll take a couple pics and let you know how it goes!

How did you do that? It would not let me upload it with it being over 768 pixels in height? :confused:

I took your image, rotated it, uploaded it to http://imageshack.us/, and sent up a picture link in my previous post. Only restriction at imageshack is stored files are 1024 kilobytes or less. Image files 3 Mb or less are automatically resized for storage.

I'm not sure where the 768 pixel restriction occurs. How'd you upload the original? :confused:

I didn't want to link it from my website so I used the attach files at the bottom. I will probably be putting it on my site later, but I'll knock the size down first.

Okay, I see now. If you use Windows XP, you can use the imageresizer power toy to get you photos to fit for uploading:

http://www.steve.maurer.net/tutorials/XP_tutorials/xp_resize_pics.htm

Or, you can always use your favorite image software. Sometimes converting the format to jpg will compress the image enough.