Yet another Accusump Install - but different
 

Ok guys this is to cover the overall installation of the 3 quart high pressure 22 inch long "tall boy" Accusump in the tunnell of the Boxster. There is a similar installation guide over on Planet 9, but that guy did a few things different than I did.

First, my goals with this project, which may be different than your goals,were:
1- I only intend to use the Accusump for track and autocross events. I am not to interested in pre-oiling due to the very few number of starts that I do (it's not a DD).
2- I like the simplicity of the manual valve for track day events, though the EPC version does have some advantages.
3- I was determined not to drill any permanent holes in the car, in case I or a future owner want to take it back to stock.
4- I wanted to get the air pressure gauge inside the car along with the air fill connection using a -4 AN hose, and then in the future it will be easy to add a dash mounted pressure gauge, with nothing to do under the car.

So, with that in mind, I made a frame for the Accusump to bolt to, that attaches above the stock supports for the water lines down the tunnell. This is a view of how it actually sits up inside the car. The black brackets in this photo are the OEM supports for the water lines.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330262209.jpg

The oil line route to a sandwich adapter at the oil filter is pretty short, and needs only a 45 degree -10 AN hose fitting on the Accusump end, and a straight fitting at the sandwich plate.

]http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330263657.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330262761.jpg


I ran the manual valve actuator cable through the same penetration that the gear shift cables, after trimming the rubber grommet where they go through. The only hole that I had to drill was in the aluminum cover plate to bring the pressure gauge and air fill connection in behind the drivers seat. To return the car to stock, I figure this cover plate can be easily sourced from all the future dead Boxsters out there.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330264195.jpg

With this install, if you wanted to do the EPC valve instead, the aluminum support frame would need to be modified to move the Accusump more forward in the car, as those EPC valve trains look pretty long.

If anyone else decides to go this route, please post any improvements.

Thanks

Very nice write up, nice and clean under there as well. Thanks!

Nice work!!! I like the location. I am considering the manual handle when I do this. I would like to the handle under the dash though

I suppose the even the switch conrolled solenoid valve is too slow to fill.

Thanks guys.

Regarding the manual valve handle, I tried and tried to find a path to get it under the dash, but the only way I saw to do that was to drill a hole below the center console. If you do that, please post where you drill through - I might decide to try that some day.

Oh, by the way, I started the Accusump up for the first time today, and found I was making about 45 psi pressure at idle with warm oil (about 200 F water temp). This was way more than I expected at idle. I had one slight oil leak - it turns out the Canton guys had not installed the safety relief valve with any teflon tape, and had not tightened it very well.

How about following the route of the shifter cables and then the drivers side under consol ,exit out the back of the centre consol; loop up and around to under the steering wheel....perhaps mounting on the crazy bracket there.....for manuals I think

Just an idea haven't tried it myself

This would work if the cable was long enough. The one that Canton makes would only reach to about where the shifter is. Perhaps I can get a special long one made in the future.

Thanks,

Bumping up an older thread, I was checking this out and it looks like the oil filter barely hangs down below the bottom of the oil pan. Is it just the angle of this photo? How far down does it hang?

Thanks

Steve

Hey Steve, yes, in that view the oil filter did project slightly below the pan. As I recall, I was using the large version of the NAPA Gold filter at the time that L&N was recommending (actually a Corvette oil filter I believe).

I never had any problem with the long filter, but have since changed to using the L&N aluminum filter housing with the washable filter. That filter does not project below the oil pan.

Awesome, thank you!

So are you able to tell the is an improvement on the track?

Pedro had an Accusump fitted to his Track Boxster.
He replaced it with a Technosump. You can read about it on his site:
Make it your own Technical Article by Pedro

I also have a TechnoSump waiting to be installed in my Spec Boxster (planned for a Thanksgiving weekend installation). I chose the TechnoSump over the Accusump for several reasons that I'll discuss in the post for the install.

I'm interested to see that - I have a 3 QT accusump that I haven't installed yet - I wanted to see what my oil pressure was like first. I had my first track weekend with the oil pressure gauge and saw it dropping in the sweepers. To me that means some air was getting sucked in (unless there is another explanation for oil pressure dropping? Can oil pooling in the heads "block" the oil flow somehow and drop pressure?)

It stayed above 20 but it still dropped.

If it is from sucking air, then I wonder if a deeper sump can provide oil and prevent/postpone this.

Not original ideas of mine - just re-hashed for a speed read.
When the oil 'sloshes' around in turns it climbs vertical surfaces.The oil gets foamy because of the whirring mechanicals it collides with.Think whisk? The oil climbs high enough to leave the oil pickup sucking oil foam. So the pressure drops. The liquid-oil level also drops even after the engine sits for a while. All those bubbles need to coalesce and burst before the level is restored.
Having a deep sump+extended pickup + a well designed horizontal and vertical baffle keeps the pickup submerged.It should also reduce the 'climbing' problem.
Why does the oil foam so much? because it has way too much detergent in it for the M96. There are low foam oils which may be better suited to this driving situation than the usually recommended oil. This has been discussed at length before.
If you run a +2qt. deep sump and the oil 1/2 way between max/min that should also prevent the AOS becoming 'swamped'.
disclaimer- I am not an expert in this subject but have already made all the mods I mentioned to my M96.

Bumping this thread again (I have been here before, this is one of my favorite threads :) ) I saw a car recently that had the accusump mounted, and it had the manual valve lever like this coming through in about the same place, but they had the handle stick up just about where the passenger seat belt was. I wish I would have gotten a picture but when I am on a track weekend I never take many pictures for some odd reason, which is bad because there are always lots of cars :) So routing the handle up by the passenger seatbelt might be an alternative if someone was considering this approach.

Steve

Hey Steve - ironically, I just changed the location of my manual valve lever a few weeks ago, and brought it up next to the drivers side seat belt latch. I got tired of reaching around behind the seat to pull the valve handle, which was especially difficult if I forgot to open the valve before getting belted in the car.

I had to fabricate a small aluminum bracket which uses two small sheet metal screw into the center console to hold the lever in place. I hated drilling in holes in the console for that, but they are down very low, and covered by the seat belt latch.

I'll try to take a photo when I have time.

Sweet! Looking forward to the pictures.

OK, perpetuating my zombie thread, here are the shots of my relocated Accusump valve handle. I didn't change anything other than rotating the cable inside the cockpit toward the front of the car in and drilling a couple of holes in the side of the center console for mounting.

I was previously thinking that I had fabbed a special bracket for this, but when I took these photos, I remembered that I ended up just buying a couple of 1/2" cable tie anchors they sell in the electrical dept. at Home Depot:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1458174694.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1458174749.jpg

That looks pretty good and not obtrusive at all.

I just had a thought... What year is your car? I have a 2000 and my fuel filter is in that tunnel... Were you able to fit around it, or do you have the fuel filter integrated into your fuel.pump?

Steve, I have my 2000 s up on the lift and there's 27 inches between the fuel tank And the filter hose.

Ps your cam lock is on its way

Are you worried the additional "height" of the pan will cause it to catch on curbing or in an off?

Lap1

If you choose the Accusump electric valve instead of the mechanical handle, would the cylinder be re-charging by itself when the engine is running, and release the oil when you open the switch? Do you know if this would be a reliable option for a daily driver? just curious..

Thank you in advance

I'm not him, but if you choose the EPC valve the operation of it is like this:

When the valve is off, oil can still flow into the accusump but not out. I believe it flows in faster or slower depending on if you are above or below the target pressure, but I'm not sure which.

When your oil pressure drops below the target threshold for the switch, the valve automatically opens up and lets oil out of the accusump in order to restore oil pressure back to the system.

One use case would be like this:

1. Turn the key to on, and then flip the switch to enable the pressure sensing switch of the accusump.
2. The pressure switch would be below the threshold, so it would open the valve and oil from the accusump would flow and pressurize the system, to provide some oil pressure and prevent a dry start
3. Once you crank the car, oil pressure would quickly rise to above the threshold (if the car is cold) and oil would go into the accusump, stored at the current oil pressure of the car.
4. If you leave the switch enabled, and then go driving, anytime the pressure falls below the threshold (our cars typically use the 35-40 switch), the valve opens and oil flows out to restore pressure
5. Once the oil heats up, if you are driving around town, you will be below the threshold everytime you go to idle, and possibly even during low rev driving. It is not really needed in this case. But if you were on the track zipping along, you would want this behavior when you hit a long sweeper at high G and oil pressure starts to drop.
6. When you get done driving, rev up the engine to around 3000 or so for a moment (if you have an oil pressure gauge, rev up to your desired pressure and hold for a moment) and then turn off the switch that enable the electronic valve, and then shut the car off, thus storing pressurized oil for the next start

Thanks Steve,

I believe that my question was mostly related to your No. 6

"When you get done driving, rev up the engine to around 3000 or so for a moment (if you have an oil pressure gauge, rev up to your desired pressure and hold for a moment) and then turn off the switch that enable the electronic valve, and then shut the car off, thus storing pressurized oil for the next start"

If you forget to shut off the electronic valve switch, when you turn off the engine (closing the valve through the switch) the Accusump should be already charged, this way as long as you remember to flip the switch when you turn on the ingnition (but before engaging the starter), you would be avoiding a dry start.

Is mi assumption correct?

If you forget to shut off the switch manually but shut the car off, the valve will close when the power is cut and will hold pressure. The pressure will depend on the oil.pressure at the time the car was shut off.