Need long lug nuts
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When I ordered my H&R 23mm spacers, I ordered the appropriate H&R lugs as well. They are very well made and have floating "acorns" for a proper seat. I got mine from Vivid Racing. You need to have 15mm of thread in the hub, I can't remember exactly what size I ordered. If I dig it up, I'll let you know.
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Found it, I used 54mm thread bolts. Vivid part number was 1455407, not sure if that crosses over to H&R as well.
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What some bolt manufacturers will specify is "OEM +XXmm" the XX being the spacer thickness.
This is a good source my Googling turned up: Otis Inc LA RAD USA Direct toll-free 855.OTIS.INC (684.7462) toll-free 888.RAD.BOLT (723.2658) international +01.310.995.8939 fax 310.305.0465 otisincla.com Home Home |
wow - wheel bolts that are +1" (+50%) longer than OEM... sound like you would be better off (safer) w/ a different style of spacer... aka not sandwich style...
I don't know the technical specs but that seems like it would be pushing the limits, no? Good luck :) |
Try this eBay item #130541540457 Nice two piece bolts.$99 for 10
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For future reference, the standard length of the oem lug bolt is 28mm's . Therefore, the following formula can be applied:
28mm + the thickness of the spacer = length of the lug bolt |
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"sandwich" ones which utilize longer wheel bolts to hold them between the wheel & rotor/hub almost like a washer: http://maxcdn.nexternal.com/allsprin...0Spacer864.jpg and bolt on which, as name implies, bolt on to rotor/hub and then (either using studs/lug nuts or a second set of wheel bolts) have wheels mounted to the spacer. http://maxcdn.nexternal.com/allsprin...0Spacer445.jpg Reason being, wheels bolts have a recommended length to thickness ratio for tensile strength. Longer bolts, to maintain this ratio for safety either need to be thicker, made from a stronger material or have more of them. With a longer bolt, the wheel exerts more leverage which can result in bending or snapping of the bolt. :eek: My understanding is pretty much anything over 20mm, for safety, requires bolt on not sandwich style. By your language though, it sounds like you are not concerned about performance but purely cosmetics. Good luck :) |
I agree with Burg, when one starts to get into some really large spacers, the prudent choice would be to utilize the "spacer and stud" design .
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Buy studs...
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interesting I am on the track with 23mm spacers on the rear. I used the H and R bolts. I am not sure of the material they use.
would it be best to install high grade studs in my hubs and use my current "sandwich" spacers? |
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Does anyone here really enjoy hanging a wheel/tire combo up there and trying to thread in a lug bolt?
No thanks. Screw in studs with generic easy to find 911 lug nuts.. So so many people get this wrong.. I have seen PLENTY of cars come into the shop with 4 short lug bolts and 1 long... they switched the wheels tires/out and paid no attention that the long bolts went with the end of the car with the spacers on it... makes me puke.. |
Here is a side by side sample. This is the "track day stud" I use on track/street cars. I use another one with a longer bullet nose on it for GrandAm (makes it faster/easier to do the tire changes)
I am showing this customer the studs, letting him decide which one he wants.. I know what he will choose... http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1330029196.jpg |
I agree that the spacer/stud set-up is very practical; especially when it involves larger spacers that are used in track applications . However, a well designed spacer that is Porsche specific (i.e hub centric) will have an extended collar that will act as the hub . This along with the appropriate length lug bolts will provide an excellent interface .
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