brake fluid
Time to change the brake fluid.
Anyone had some good experience with non-porsche fluid and is cheaper? Thanks |
You can use any DOT4 fluid. I use Valvoline because it's available in the quart containers.
One thing I suggest if you don't have it already is the Power Bleeder. It's beautiful and makes complete brake bleeding/fluid change a 20 minute one-man job once the wheels are off. You can get one at www.928gt.com just search for bleeder. The cap size is the same as the Boxster so it does not matter what year model is listed next to the bleeder. |
You may want to try synthetic brake fluid. Last longer, better for system.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product :cheers: _detail.asp?product=51 |
If track use is involved, ATE Blue seems the most common recommendation for the higher temperatures encountered. If not, you can ignore this reply.
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ATE actually has superior specs compared to the fluid sold by Porsche.
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IMHO factory fill is ATE Gold which is similar to ATE Blue racing but just has a different color.
ATE Blue racing is far more superior than just any DOT4 fluid Mark. |
Brucelee: Sorry, I thought all DOT4 was synthetic.
Tool Pants & markk: Is ATE Super Blue ok for the ABS system? I haven't used it yet, but thought about it. I was told DOT5 was not to be used in an ABS system, so I want to make sure Super Blue is not a similar problem with ABS before I put it in. I'd like to swap to the Super Blue in the Boxster and 928 if it's ok to use. They both call for DOT4 fluid. Thanks! :cheers: |
Ate Super Blue Racing is a very good brake fluid which works great in these cars. Due to the blue color, I'm not sure they can call it "DOT4". Ate Typ 200 is gold in color and is functionally equivalent to Super Blue. Super Blue may be a little easier to find, but you may prefer the Typ 200 because it looks like the stock fluid and won't raise any flags with your dealer.
DOT5 (Silicone) brake fluid should definitely be avoided. |
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Quote:
One pointer: if you are also changing pads when using the power bleeder, be sure to relieve the pressure in the bleeder pressure chamber before pulling the pads out/rotating the caliper away from the disc. The bleeder keeps feeding fluid into the caliper cylinders and is relentless - there's no way to hold it back with mere mortal strength or regular hand tools! You don't want to over extend the calipers past reasonable travel and/or waste a lot of brake fluid in draining them just to retract the pistons... Another tip is to relieve the pressure before you do the last wheel's bleeding and then do a standard "assisted" (pedal-pumping) bleed of the last wheel. This way you don't end up with an overfilled master reservoir that needs to be drained... you pump it down while bleeding the last wheel. |
thanks for the replys guys..i will try some of that super blue
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