This is not necessarily true. A friend and I made several carbon and carbon/kevlar belly pans for the B5 chassis Audi. We sold them for around $350 each and couldn't keep up with demand. I laid the first one we ever made out in the street and ran over it a few times, with nothing more than a minor scratch on it. Also, I hit an armadillo going ~70 mph with no consequence to the belly pan or car.
To say the skid plate would shatter is an overgeneralization IMO. It depends on the design and materials used. Ours proved to be exceptionally durable and units a few years old have sold in the secondary market for more than we charged.

That's worthy of some kudos, Pat, pretty impressive item...why not do the same for the Boxsters? ;)

...what was the consequence for the armadillo? :dance:

I responded to Rayner's PM about using my car for measurements but never heard back. Let me know if you're interested and where/when we can meet. I don't have much spare time but am willing to help.

if a pan could be made from carbon fiber strong enough not to break, I think it would be price too high.
I feel that the cost would price it out of my hands. From my point of view, a sheet of material on the bottom of my car, that no one can see, that is designed to get hit and scratched, should be as cheap and practical as possible. A press formed sheet of stainless, I would think, cost less and would sell more.

I agree that a carbon fiber skid plate is not a good idea. That's a way too expensive material for a part that is supposed to absorb impact. A carbon underbelly could be useful on the race track, but not on the street. Someone mentioned a metal skid plate to a carbon diffuser. That is the only reason carbon fiber was brought into the discussion.

I like the stainless idea, but stainless is also expensive. Not only the material cost, but there is added machining cost. It's also heavy. The weight isn't a huge problem because of the location on the car, but it is a factor that must be considered.

Could I request that the skid plate be alluminium or plastic?

Would also be ideal if it were made up of relatively small pieces that dzus clipped together. (this would also make shipping much much more affordable!)

Sam

You have valid points. That said, the pan on the B5 has a few vents in it, and it would not be easily made of metal. If someone really wants one made from the OEM mold, metal is not a viable option. We were going for OEM fitment and functionality. As for the cost, yes it is expensive. That said, we couldn't keep up with demand, so I was not concerned about it. Sellers don't determine prices, buyers do. Lastly, real-world testing and usage confirmed the durability was outstanding. Keep in mind the pan was not made like a carbon body panel. it was somewhat flexible, comparable to the OEM pan.

Maybach 62S has a full length belly pan, material looks like FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic). Thin gage metal would be very noisy when rocks hit it.

We finally got the prototype in. I thought I would post a pic. Personally, I think it looks amazing. I still need to make sure the measurements are correct, and perform a couple more tests. Does anyone in the Dallas area have an engine we could perform a test fit on?

Looks great! If I was closer than Australia - I'd pop by for a test fit!

Sam

Ryan, I've had an idea for quite some time and just don't have the money or energy to do it now, but I sure would buy it if you guys made it.

Someone needs to come out with some perforated & painted stainless steel rollbar inserts. A CNC machine should be able to do it without a hitch. The plastic ones break, get stolen if the car is left in a parking lot with the top down, or they blow off when you drive quite fast and your passenger reclines their seat.

The only fix is to zip tie them down and that looks like crap.

Just an idea since you asked for ideas for our cars.

Now there's an idea, I'll give Randall a +1 on that!

You're too kind, overdrive :cheers:

Hey, I'd +2 it, but I'm not that awesome. We just have pretty similar taste, it seems. I like function way more than form, but I won't complain when I can accomplish both.

That's an idea I've considered as well. I had some different thoughts on materials and manufacturing processes and it all turned out to be too expensive for me to pursue (at least for now). It is a pretty complex part to manufacture as is not to mention improving on it.

If someone can come up with a better insert I would definitely be an interested potential customer.

hah! i've been watching this thread, wondering when it was going to degenerate from performance parts to carbon fiber this/that and cosmetics bits/pieces. we were almost there when the carbon diffusers came up, but now we are all the way.

i'd like some carbon fiber golf tees please; i rest my balls on them when i drive ...

I'd consider a set of functional diffusers, regardless of what they're made out of, and an underbody panel to protect the engine while providing some airlfow for cooling, to be performance parts in keeping with the title of the thread.

me too; that's why i listed underbody panels in my first 'ask' also. i just think that 99.9% of folks who get a diffuser do it for looks, not performance.

Fyi, Renegade Hybrids have developed an electric power steering kit for the 996. $1200 though ...

Like I was saying, I'm definitely more for function over form. The Aerokit supposedly actually helps the car aerodynamically rather than being strictly an aesthetic package, and if that is indeed the case, great (though I'm not a huge fan of the look), but I can't just go and throw agressive looking parts at the car just to make it look different...I'd rather spend the money on gas. :dance:

Any updates on the development of parts?

Sam

Found this thread searching on the BMC CDA, to see ho others might have installed one. Sparker, would you mind sharing some details on this or even maybe consider making another one of the part that replaces the air box and sits before the BCM CDA for me?

I am an Industrial Engineer who just graduated from PennState in May 2011. I also had access to lathes, mills, mandrel benders, welders, SolidWorks and CAD programs, etc. I did the same thing and tried to make my own parts for my car, but then I graduated and I lost access to everything before I got to finish with my parts.

If you can make me a cheap light weight 2ndary cat bypass pipes and Muffler that is just slightly loader and more free flowing than stock, that would be great.

Kroggers - PM sent.

I am a little upset that this thread has died off, started off in a blaze of glory and I was hoping we would have seen some nice new parts by now.

Is there still a chance?
Sam

I have been through this multiple times since 1995. The people who *want* and the people who actually *buy* are very different. If 60 people want something done/built, 10 people will actually buy. Sad, but it's a fact of life when it comes to *making* Porsche parts for such niche market.

Took me nearly 8 years to sell off 100 pieces when I had 80 confirmed, then dwindled to 40, then 20.. stuck with 80 parts..



B

Reply sent... :)

Hey guys i know its been along time, the delay has been due to me and my old business partner having some drama. Anyway, he's decided to quit and ive decided to stuck to it.

I have researched the spark plug tubes some more they will cost 120.00 per kit.

Is anyone still interested in doing this?

If I can get atleast 20 people to commit to buying it I will front the money to have them made and when they are ready I'll setup a group buy for them.

Let me know and once again I'm very sorry it took this long for a reply, but hopefully we can finally get some parts made.

Thanks

Just a thought, but you could probably do well starting a small business and putting it on eBay. Worldwide, I would think you would sell at least twenty sets. Just my 2 cents. Had my tubes just replaced but otherwise I would have been interested.

There is a good reason why the OEM tubes are non-metallic.

Consider where stray spark will travel from cracked coil packs if a metallic (conductive) tube is employed. As it stands now cracked coils will generally not cause misfires because they stray spark can't discharge into any conductive material nearby. With a metallic tube that is not the case and stray spark will discharge into the tubes and that can create collateral damage, just like it does in Cayenne engines where it kills oil level senders and other electronics when the coil packs crack.

Stray spark can also take out the drivers of other items when it has a path to ground. It is entirely possible that stray spark charging a metallic spark plug tube could even take out the driver in the ECU for that particular coil pack.

Considering how bad these coil packs are with failures, I'd be concerned. With stray spark near variocam solenoids and etc I'd be concerned with those items and their drivers also being damaged.

Just think about it.

^^^^Takes care of that idea!

doesn't the 987 have metal tubes that are built-in to the cam covers, but the same coil packs as the 986?

Also, at $120 a kit, could buy a full set of tubes and O-rings twice I think... which would probably last the life of the car and more....

Only assuming that you would anodize those i.e. non-conductive (we went to the same common sense school right?) are these tubes/kit still available?

Changed the plugs yesterday on the car and the oem 'plastic' tubes are shot, cracked, and rather dangerous.... to the driver ;)

you raise an interesting point about the leaking coils creating a voltage arc that shorts out sensors.

I can have the tubes ceramic coated. but that’s an additional manufacturing process. Then the next issue is how much current are we trying to shield from. 1V or 20,0000 V odds are if you have a cracked coil thats pumping out about 20000 v nothing is going to stop that arc it doesnt matter if the tubes are plastic or metal.

I think the best cure in this case is prevention by replacing your coil packs routinely.

Ceramic coating would unlock a big advantage though.
i'd be able to make the tubes from steel which would lower cost and has way better thermal properties than aluminium.

I finally saved up the money to do this so i there is still interest pm me or text me at 9407357295.

and I will have them made. I wont take any orders until I have the parts in hand. I just dont want to invest in parts no one wants :)

Did my own!

Reverse engineering those is rather elementary lolll and Fun! What the hell... took me half day, from model to turning them in the CNC lathe. Had a hard time finding pre-fab seals however but someone helped me out with that. Week later I had my six custom plug tubes installed in the box!

Screw steel mate, awful convections....similar to those of composites. But cheap to make that's an advantage! Made mine out of 7075 at temper 6 and type II anodized them to Mil Spec 8625 (20µ).

Seals are from an 'unknown' source/material but was told they were high temp o-rings. Unlike on that old solid model I found a minute ago, they are freakish purple colour :/

But then who cares lolll Good news is two years later, still no leaks.

Cheap Cheap, made in China my man $9.99. Good for life!

(those f n oem plastic tubes... mine were leaking hell-juice all over my floor)

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1431556332.jpg

So nine86 now that testing is over.......does this mean I can buy a set? If so I want.:dance:

Not for sale Monty sorry bud. R2specracing's idea to commercialize those really... I've just made a set for my box car and mind you, those purple seals I got may have fused to the engine by now. Haven't pulled them out to check since I've installed them so might be a permanent fix I've 'invented' lolllll

Needs R&D on the seal part that's for sure. I remember toasting two @300F for about 2hrs when I got them. They survived the heat but didn't survived a flame - died in less than 10secs.

Aluminum 7075 anodized with an industrial thickness is the way to go imo, that I'm 100% certain. Hope OP will make them that way instead of steel (steel is way too hard to machine also, raise prices).

Out of 6 tubes I've pulled, only two were not cracked or defect. Oil dripping and all.... this plastic tube thing is lame

No worries!!! :cheers: I really like the concept though. Fused is much better than leaky and smelly LOL..Thought I'd check since you are responsible for some mighty tasty projects!

awesome work nine six :) yeah I could use 7075 its a little harder to source but way better than 6061 in terms of raw strength Thermally though they expand at similar rates. I would have to coat it though because 7075 isnt as corrosion resistant. i like steel because it wont expand as much as aluminium so it will hold tolerance better.

I got my tube in today if people are interested i can get a batch ordered this week. and make a set

I want to make them at my local machinist because I can trace the materials and make sure they arent being made from sub par materials. If my name is going to be associated with something I cant have parts breaking in service it will be a little more but better. Im nervous about using non traceable parts inside an engine.

If i can get at least 5 people to say they will buy a set ill move on it. Ill also beat him up on the price to get us a better deal. its a numbers game though the more units i order the lower the price

I just got back from the machine shop im having them do a quote from different materials and annodized vs non.

Ill update with prices shipped tomorrow.

How about some Titanium lug bolts?