99 boxster Need help ASAP!
 

So my check engine light has been on for a wile. The car upon warmup would run very rich so I took it to get the trouble codes off of it. $85 later the guy told me that it was the O2 sensors on bank 1. Now I didn't know which one bank 1 was so I just replaced all 4 both before and after the cats. Figured wile I was down there I would change the oil also. So after doing all of this I disconnected the battery for a wile to reset the computer. Started the car up and NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT! BUT!! when I started going down the road the car started to spit and sputter. The check engine light started flashing and then went to a solid glow. So I took the car back to see what the code was this time. Much to my amazement it was multiple misfires in cylinder 1 and 2. And (go figure) O2 SENSOR ON BANK 1?!? WTF!! I just spent $760 replacing the o2 sensors! PLEASE HELP ME! this car is very quickly becoming a money pit! :barf:

One cheap thing to try is cleaning your mass air fuel sensor (MAF). Research what guys have used on this forum and see if that fixes your problems. You'll still probably need someone to reset your computer thought to get that CE light turned off.

Don't drive the car if it's blinking. Solid on isn't too bad, but driving it when it's blinking can cause damage to your motor.

The next thing you should try if that doesn't work is pulling a spark plug and having a look at it. If it's burned you should replace all your plugs.

Hope this helps.

PS - If you don't have a couple of grand a year to put into your boxster for repairs the first couple of years of ownership, it's probably not the right time to own the car. Sorry to say this, but old boxsters like yours and mine are plagued with maintenance issues that are costly, even if you do the repairs yourself like I do. Check out my web site for all my repairs... it will help you see what lies ahead for you.

Suggestions
 

Instead of throwing parts at the problem, buy a code reader for $60, read the codes, post them here and someone will give you a list of the probable causes.

Did you buy Porsche or Bosch parts for the 4 sensors or use some other brand? Replace with same part #?

Your mechanic took you...there is very very little chance you needed to replace all 4 sensors and any muffler shop could do one for you for about $50 in labor and a $140 part that was the exactly correct part. Or it is easy to do yourself and there are online instructions. If that was what the code really said.

Now what is this code?

Thanks for all the input
 

Thank you guys for all the input. A couple of months back I replaced the MAF sensor :\ I did the O2 sensors myself the $700 was for all 4 sensors and the 2 diagnostic test I had done to it... I really don't know what to do. I love my boxster I've always wanted a porsche and got this one from my cousin for $7500 so it was a steal but with me just starting out and being on an EMT's salary of a huge $8.60 hr. I'm starting to question if I shouldn't just sell the dang thing. :ah: I'll go to the parts place and get the codes when I get off my 24 hr shift tmr and write down the codes for y'all I just hope we can find something.

P.S. Yes the both the MAF and the O2 sensors were BOSH.

Mass air sensor - new
O2 sensors - new
Miss fires still happening - coil packs are next. About 250 for all four I think. Also do the spark plug tubes and o rings and spark plugs.

Just what I would do next. I know it all sux to do but after all is done you should have a reliable Porsche.

Coil packs.
 

Do you need to change the coil packs everytime you do a tuneup? Because I replaced mine prolly a year ago. Now for the park plugs yeah those prolly do need to be changed because last time I changed those I was changing the coil packs. Lol
Not 2 mention the O2 code is still on...

No you don't have to change the coil packs everytime you do a tuneup.
I only replace them when they go bad. I am not sure what their normal resistance is, but you can check them with a regular multimeter.

Did you clear the O2 code with a obd reader?

Error codes first, clear diagnostic discussion second, change parts last. :) This is by far the quickest and least expensive way to keep your car in good running condition. :cheers:

No I didn't clear the codes with the tool I just disconnected the Batt for 15 or so mins.
Topless you kindof confused me on you last post. I see why the codes would come first. But why replace the parts last and clear the codes 2nd? Wouldn't you get the codes, replace the parts, then clear the codes???

skip it all and yank the motor! 3.4 time :) Just kidding. i'm sure you will figure it all out soon. It seems that you are narrowing it down. If you changed all that already I am not really sure what to check next. Good luck.

I had Miss-fire codes and just replacing my spark plugs solved that issue.....cheap and worth a try.

You still have not diagnosed your car. You could easily spend another $3k-$4K on parts and not fix the problem. Get all the error codes, year-mileage-model, part #s for all recent repairs and list any other recent mods/repairs. K&N oiled air filter? With this info we can help you. :cheers:

All of the trouble codes.
 

So, I stopped by advanced auto and got the car on the code reader here's what i got... P0300, P0302, P0130, P1115, P1119, P1319, P1313, P1314, and P1315.
I know alot right? I got him to clear the codes for me. Yet to say as soon as I left target it started to throw codes again. :barf:
As far as replacement parts. I replaced them all myself so don't actually have receipts but i can give you a general timeline.
May 2010- MAF sensor, 6 coil packs, 2 O2 sensors, oil change, and 6 spark plugs.
September 2010- Air filter (OEM non-oil), and fuel filter.
Ive been experiencing this problem for a wile. These are the things Ive tried to fix it but nothing has worked. :confused:
March 2011- 2 O2 sensors (after cats) and another oil change.
All the other modifications have been cosmetic. LED tail lights, HID headlight kit (non-litronic), LED undercover dash lights (for running 911 calls).
Its a 1999 986 boxster, 130,145 miles.
Pretty much everything I have replaced on the car has been BOSCH (MAF, O2 sensors, coil packs, fuel filter, and air filter.
As far as oil I use Mobil1 high mileage 10w-40.

HOPE THIS INFO HELPS! :cheers:

These 2 are misfires

P0300, P0302,

Another O2 sensor related code but an interesting comment beyond the suggested causes is contaminated air flow. What is the condition of the AUS? Have you looked at the throttle body for evidence that it is highly oil contaminated? Also could be:
– Oxygen sensor
– Wiring harness
– ECM

P0130

The following codes are the 2 O2 sensors nearest the engine reporting below the expected threshold

P1115,

P1119,

The following codes are misfires

P1319, P1313, P1314, and P1315.

So lets pull the plugs and see if they are contaminated. Don't just change them as we have to get to the source. Look at the condition of the air intake. A DIY guide to cleaning the throttle body is at pedrosgarage.com

And buy yourself a code reader. Actron or Durametric depending on your aptitude and budget.

I think Mike meant AOS or Air-Oil Separator. Just wanted to make sure you're not confused, Porsche_Baller.

One more thought—you know, at this rate a trip to the dealer or a well-respected indy Pcar mechanic's shop might be a cheaper solution than trying to troubleshoot and fix this problem yourself.

P1115 ,p1119- O2 sensor heating below threshold.
Bad O2 sensors, wrong sensors for your car model, mis-wired sensors, damaged wire harness. You currently have no working O2 sensors so no monitoring of your mixture. This can damage your cats and potentially your engine over time. Probably the cause for misfire also as the DME is blindly attempting to control mixture.

Also there are several different MAF sensors so you would be wise to confirm the part # for the one you installed and make sure it is the right one for your car year/model.

Time to knuckle down and retrace all recent repairs to see where things went sideways. Good luck!

Where is the AOS??
 

I had recently cleaned the throttle body when i replaced the MAF i also did that one mod a pedrosgrage.com with the air intake. I figured, wile its off there might as well change it. There was no sign of oil in the intake/ throttle body and the old MAF didn't look bad at all... The new MAF looked exactly like the one i pulled off the car same bolt pattern, and plug spot. It was also a Bosch as was the one that came off of it. As far as Miswired sensors they were straight plug and play they were slotted so they could only go on one way so highly doubt that is the case.
I have to say I'm starting to suspect the ECM or computer myself..
If y'all have some pics or description of where i can find the AOS ill definitely take a look at it.
On a side note do you think the car could have jumped time?? :confused:
I have to work a 24 tmr but after that ill have a 48 off so ill take a look at the plugs then.
ill get myself a code reader as soon as funding permits... I still have to replace a rear tire. (had a blowout the other day so now I'm riding on one new and one old one)
Thanks for all the help guys i really like brainstorming with y'all :cheers:

Am I getting ripped off??
 

So I went to take the car to momentum motorworks in Birmingham they specialize in Porsche and BMW. I made it about halfway there and the car quit on the interstate. It had a serious decrease in power and the check ingine light started flashing. When it started flashing the car would run ok then as soon as it turned solid it would loose power and barely move! So I pulled off the road and called a rollback and got them to take it on up there. So the guy calls me a couple of hours later and tells me my oil seprator is bad and it was going to be $405 parts and labor to replace it and that it wasn't a 100% guarantee fix. I was very currious. Am I getting ripped? I've never herd of an "oil seperator" does Antony know anything about this thing??? Is it the same thing as the AOS?

AOS = air oil separator.

btw, when your car starts acting up like that, don't drive it. you can do a lot more damage ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$).

if you wind up needing the coil packs, PM me. i have a full working set you can have nice & cheap.


EDIT: one more thing. $400 parts and labor to replace the AOS is fair.

Outstanding
 

Great thanks for the help! If I need coil packs I'll deff let you know. As soon as it started running that bad I pulled off the road.I wasn't sure if that was the same thing he was talking about because he just called it the oil seperator:\