it is quite a lot of fun. as to the exhaust note? the 997 GT3 and my car sound VERY similar. the stebro race exhaust is ridiculous. it's also ridiculous in the cabin, though.....

quick update; got my oil report back. the first report is in the column on the right. that oil is of unknown type & unknown viscosity, but the best guess is that it was Mobil 1 0w-40. it sat in the engine for eight years. you can see that there was a lot of fuel & a lot of silicon in it, which makes sense. unburned fuel from the combustion chambers slowly seeped past the rings & carried some lokasil with it into the oil.

the most recent test is the column on the left. this oil was castrol syntec 5w-30 with about 1000 miles on it. sort of a break-in oil. my guess was that, since many of the oil passages hadn't had oil flow in eight years, we'd see high metal oxides in this batch, and we do. aluminum and iron are high. silicon is still high, but decreasing. no fuel in this batch, so rings are looking good. all in all, this is about what i expected. i'll do another shorter oil change interval this time (2000 miles or so) & expect the numbers to look 'normal' at that point.

car is running very well & is a riot to drive. only weird issue just started the other day; when the car sits for awhile, it doesn't want to start. it pops & coughs. finally it fires up w/ a little smoke and all is well. leaky injector? we shall see.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...uff/E43841.jpg

have you put the car on a dyno? do you think it is more than enough power for a boxster? I was thinking of doing an engine swap as I have the 2.7 and the most cost effective way for much better numbers is a different motor. would u reccomend the 3.4 or a 3.6 or what have you.

Lobo,

do a 3.6 :) 3.4s can be had a bit cheaper though if it matters.

J

Lobo -

the power is awesome. depending on the year of your car, a 3.6 can be more difficult to install i think. that having been said, it could use a little more low end torque, which i think the 3.6 has in spades.

i haven't put the car on a dyno yet, but i plan to do it. i think it will be quite a lot. right now, i still have the stock cats & pipes from the 2.5L, but used in conjunction w/ headers & a race muffler. i will probably put some cat bypass pipes on it first & see how that works out.

it's a LOT of power for a boxster. it will blow the doors off a 996.

next up: weight loss. i'm going to pull the AC & a bunch of other crap.

Insite, where are you in the Atlanta area. I would love to take a ride in that monster.

i live in smyrna & work in marietta. i'd love to give you a check ride. supposed to be 60 degrees on sunday.....

Nice job, could you elaborate on how you moved the pins on the DME harness?

sure. there's a tool that can be used to gently remove a pin from the harness at the DME. after that, it can simply be pushed into another slot.

i don't have the tool, though, so i bought a pin with a segment of wire attached to it. i pushed it into the correct 'new' slot, then clipped the wire & soldered it to the new one.

I met Insite and went for a ride in his car. I can say this car is insane. It sounds amazing, and is crazy fast.

He took me on some great curvy rodes in Atlanta that I didn't know existed. He has coil-overs and great brakes installed also. Thank God, because we needed them.

Thanks for the ride Kevin, it took me a few hours to calm down. :cheers:

glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks, any tricks or guidance on safely opening the plug housing so the pin can be inserted?

Where can we obtain the pins with the wires attached or did someone with correct pin tool remove one from a used harness?

Any chance you can make a video of the sound a quick ride and post it to YouTube? :dance:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Thanks, any tricks or guidance on safely opening the plug housing so the pin can be inserted?

sure. this is for the OLDER '99 DME; the newer ones are a little bit different.
1) disconnect the harness from the DME
2) cut the zip tie and open the back of the socket cover
3) use a small screwdriver to remove the weather seal from around the socket
4) remove the phillips screw from the outside of the socket
5) push the far end of the socket down; it will rotate forward & out of the cover
6) pull the socket through the cover

you how have a totally exposed DME connector. the pins are removed / inserted from the back of the plug.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Where can we obtain the pins with the wires attached or did someone with correct pin tool remove one from a used harness?

i got mine from a fellow forum member; it had been removed from a used harness. i probably have some if you need one.

i'll give it a shot this weekend

Thanks insite for the great info! :cheers:

quick update. car is running great; it's a real rocket. i've ordered an accusump that i'll be installing in a week or two. i finally feel comfortable that i've shaken the car down enough to hit the track. april 11th is the day. i am going to set the car up EXACTLY the same as the day i blew the engine:

same weight, tires, alignment, etc.

the goal is to isolate the time difference ONLY from the engine. also, i'm a little rusty. it's been almost 2yrs since i hit the track. my bogey time is 1:11.6. anything below this is all engine. obviously i'll tape a session or two.

one other note: when i drilled out the exhaust manifold bolts, i meant to post a link to the centering tool i used to get the pilot holes so nice. this thing is AWESOME. it's called the quikcenter and i highly recommend it:

http://www.qbaroo.com/QuikCentercom/

until next time.

how does that product work exactly?

the M96 motors, especially the earlier ones, can suffer from oil starvation in track conditions. it has to do with sump depth, poorly designed sump baffles, and inadequate oil scavenging in the heads. each head has a scavenge pump, but it's located at one end of th car. this means that if you're accelerating or deccelerating while in a sustained high-g corner, it's possible for oil to pool in the cylinder head AWAY from the scavenge pump, running the sump dry & killing the engine.

there is an easy way to address ALL of these problems. the accusump looks like a bomb in your trunk. it's' a big cylinder that holds two quarts of oil under pressure. when the oil pressure in the engine is greater than that in the accusump oil flows into the accusump. if the engine oil pressure drops, the accusump will make up the difference by feeding oil into the motor until pressure returns. it makes sure that, even in adverse high-g driving conditions, there is a steady supply of oil to the engine's wear surfaces.

Firstly, I want to apologize for not being clear. My question was not about the accusump (which seems to be a great product for the price compared to other oil starvation solutions) I was just curious how the qwikcenter tool works. I went to the site but it did not really spell out how it is used. Furthermore I will be changing out my headers within a week or so and it may be something I will need. Never-the-less, thanks for the info on the accusump your explanation clears up any questions I may have had on that particular piece of equipment. I do plan on getting one some-day but I will probably do a motor swap first.

P.S.

what other tools did you use for drilling out the broken bolts? for re-threading? and what bolts did you use afterwards anything special?