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Yes, but that's 3 clutches to one clutch plus a flywheel replacement (assuming 50k, 100k, and 150k clutch change intervals vs. one new clutch and a flywheel at 150k. Which one ends up costing more? By 100k, he may have decided to sell the car, and thus, he even can leave the next clutch change to the next owner.
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I took my Boxster by dad's (very honest, but non-Porsche) mechanic and he said that the clutch felt fine and he didn't detect any slipping. I also tried the uphill test mentioned earlier three times. I was going about 30mph and shifted from 2nd to 5th and floored it, the RPM's dropped lower then stabilized and I was crawling up the hill. Which I think means it is not slipping.
This mechanic has reasonable prices but I am not too fond of being lied too. I am going to hold off until the clutch is noticeably failing, and from what I found out it only takes a day to get the clutch replaced. Thanks again for the great advice! (You guys just saved me $1300, for now) :cheers: |
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I paid $550 for my OEM flywheel 3 years ago and no additional labor since the clutch was being replaced anyways. http://www.************************************************************/search/product.aspx?sid=514wrrjb4t5l2k55iq5ij345&makeid=8 00019@Porsche&modelid=1388358@BOXSTER%20S&year=200 1&cid=15@Clutch%20Parts&gid=5348@Flywheel $581 for an 01' 3.2L Flywheels + $20 for random bolts. |
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If you were doing 30mph in 5th in a boxster uphill and it didn't shoot up in RPMs when you floored it, then your clutch friction material is fine. It might be worn down, but it's not slipping.
Jake Raby has far far more experience than I do, but my take is that if your clutch isn't slipping than your CLUTCH isn't abusing or degrading your flywheel life. Your flywheel itself might be out of spec, but I doubt your clutch is making it worse. Just keep driving it. When it starts to slip, it'll slip in 5th gear mostly at first. PREVENT THE CLUTCH from slipping. Downshift. Once it starts slipping, it's on it's way out. But some people can get 20k out of a slipping clutch, while others get 2-3 days. A slipping clutch is what will also ensure that you flywheel needs replacement, as the more it slips the more abuse the flywheel starts to take. Seems to me like the smart money move is to replace both clutch & flywheel together, unless you are the type that finds pulling the trans on a saturday morning a fun thing and are willing to try to just do the clutch. |
What degrades the flywheel surface and renders it non serviceable is the rivets from the clutch disc contacting the flywheel surface.
What makes the clutch slip is reduced clamping force from the pressure plate being exerted on the disc because it has worn its self too thin. In my experience the rivets of the clutch disc contact the flywheel surface BEFORE the disc wears thin enough to lose clamping pressure and slip. This is why once the clutch has worn far enough to slip, the flywheel surface has already been compromised in 90% of instances. A slipping clutch is the sign of a completely compromised clutch. Preventive action in this area just plain makes sense and is much less painful on the wallet than doing whats required only when it is required. |
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Regards, Maurice. |
vehicle weight, gearing and the hydraulic clutch.
and the wear surface of the clutch disc is somewhat shallow making wear to the point of rivet contact more of an issue. |
I will be buying my first Porsche very soon, a 2001 Boxster S with only 21k miles in well cared for excellent condition , and am very excited.
Would anyone know if there is a right up or video of how to replace the clutch and flywheel? I hopefully won't have to deal with fixing this issue anytime soon, but it would be nice/helpful information to have and assume others would benefit from it as well. |
If you have worked on cars at all or ever done a clutch it is not a big deal.
very straight forward. |
I know this is an old thread but this may help someone in the future. Extra info on what they are getting into with a Porsche Boxster S ;)
Here is my 2003 Boxster S complete clutch History: Year / Car Miles / How many miles the clutch lasted 2005 | New Clutch: 28243 | Lasted: N/A 2007 | New Clutch: 47000~ | Lasted: 18757 2009 | New Clutch: 60842 | Lasted: 13842 2012 | New Clutch: 82589 | Lasted: 21747 2014 | New Clutch: 94901 | Lasted: 12312 (change due to easy access - IMS Retrofit) All the best :) |
Hey Shred! Welcome to the forum. :cheers: No need to explain that handle of yours! Of course the saying here is pics or it didn't happen! Your car not the carnage! LOL
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Something is very wrong there I am at 72k on my original clutch and I have heard that is not uncommon |
Shred, you need a new mechanic, or something very wrong is going on with your transmission.
To update this thread: After that lying mechanic told me I needed a new clutch at 50k miles, 5 years ago. I put another 25k on the car before having the clutch replaced at about 75k miles (when it started showing actual symptoms). And I could have probably gone another few thousand miles on it, but per Jake's advice did not want to cause additional damage by waiting for it fail completely. |
Hi and thanks!
Yes, my clutch history is shocking even to me, but those were all from the previous 1st owner who never tracked the car. The car also had a new gearbox at 60842 miles. I did the IMS retrofit after having the car for a couple months and did the clutch at the same time as it needed a new flywheel. From all the internet readings, it seems the clutch last longer on the base model. A highly reputable independent Porsche specialist also told me they don't last long. I have driven a manual car all my life (20+ years), I was hoping the previous owner didn't know how to drive. Maybe there should be a clutch history thread haha |
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