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I understand that the bearing is not pressure lubricated by design. That's my point. The internal pressure forces past the plastic seal by accident and washes out the factory grease. The point of the post was to explain how high revs and high pressure can be good in that it changes more oil inside the bearing.
And by the way I am not an idiot. I was typing on my Iphone and it auto inserts words. I sure you understood I did not mean the Bearing strait, but thanks for pointing that out. |
I generally don't post information that I can't back up with empirical data, because some jackass is bound to challenge me and I like to be prepared for that.
Lets just say the phone calls I get don't come from people that admit to driving their car hard.. |
Just to better understand this issue...
Jake, The oil that comes out from a RMS leak, is the oil going around the bearing or through it? Along those lines...If it is going through it, do cars like mine that had 4 RMS repairs prior to the IMS replacement have a less chance of failure? Should a very leaky RMS be replaced? Do cars that have a single leak and then never leak again have a greater failure rate because there is oil going through the bearing, but at a slow rate and therefore not washing completly through? Enquiring minds want to know |
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Fast forward a few thousand miles and the inner seal becomes further compromised, along with the outer seal, the release of oil that has accumulated inside the tube is what ends up on the garage floor as it bypasses the OE bearing flange in the center. This oil is nasty black because it has been caught up inside the IMS tube through many heat cycles. Quote:
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Perhaps, but I still think you may have the IMS and RMS confused. |
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My apologies. However, you must separate the RMS and the IMS. The RMS is simply a seal that keeps oil from leaking out of the junction of the case halves and the back of the crank, where the flywheel attaches. It is completely separate from the IMS, which is below the crank. Again, high revs and higher oil pressure have nothing to do with IMS lubrication, as the only oil that gets to that bearing is from windage and splashing. There is NO pressure feed to that bearing. On a related note, the oil that does get to the IMS bearing does not go around or bypass the RMS (as again, they are completely separate), so you could replace the RMS seal 25 times, and this has zero impact on the health of the IMS bearing below it. |
I understand the difference, I just dont know in which direction does the oil flow.
hang with me for a second: If it works like this: the oil from the motor, goes through the bearing, and then to the rear seal, then to the garage floor... more oil on ther floor would be good in that the old motor oil is not blocked from "passing through" and does not back up inside the bearing. OR the oil goes to the real seal area, and then pools, then seeps into the bearing, and into the tube, and back out the tube pass the bearing. In that case the rear seal leak would have not much to do with failure. OR Am I wrong in both areas? Also why does porsche not just recall the cars and fix the issues and thier reputation by doing the retrofit as a recall. |
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Now, as to why Porsche doesn't do what Mazda did with the RX8 motors (where they gave the early cars, which had a higher chance of blowing up, a complementary 100k mile warranty) or something similar is beyond me, though I understand their mindset unfortunately. You would think that the company would be concerned with bad PR and pissed off owners who will never buy the marque again, but it's not quite that simple. All companies know their buyer demographics, and who buys their products new, and second-hand. As such, Porsche knows (and I'd say at better than 95% correctly) that the people who buy used Boxsters will never buy a new Porsche, so really, despite how pissed off you are that your car blew up and that you'll never buy a Porsche again, they haven't lost a sale, as you weren't going to buy a new car anyway (aside from selling parts, they could care less who buys the cars used). Sad but true. This also explains why there are many documented cases of original owners getting goodwill replacement motors (after the warranty expired). That's because this guy DID buy the car new, and likely will again, so they don't want to piss him off by saying "sorry, out of warranty, but here's your $15k bill to fix your car." |
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hang with me for a second: Quote:
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Deny, Deny, Deny... |
This picture may help you. This is the view from the rear of the 1-3 case half, during assembly with the bearing carrier (which holds the crank) inserted. To the left is the rear of the Intermediate Shaft (where you can see the end of the bearing behind the flange), and to the right is the back of the crank. The gap between the crank and the case half is where the RMS seal goes.
As you can see, the RMS and the IMS are completely separate, and do not share oil in any way. |
OH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Got it it now. I thought that the Rear main seal was in front of the IMS. I did not realize that they where in two different spots. Thank you. I had the RMS replaced four times and the oil looked like it was coming from the IMS area, I guess it was pooling in the bell housing. |
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I love reading this statement. The more excuses I have to drive the hell out of this 2.7, the better. I haven't hit the rev limiter yet, but I have been about 200 rpms into the red. Unfortunately any red in 3rd gear is way over any posted speed limits. |
rms
i have a 97 boxster 2.5 just had it serviceds and it needs the rms doing as it is leaking at 50k miles i have only had the car for 3 months done 2k miles in it plan to drive it as my day to day car once the rms is replaced will this happen agian the car has a full service history and has had the rms done before.
what is the chance of ims happening at 50k miles + also the drive window sticks some times when openning/shutting the door garage wants to replace the door lock £125 but isnt there a senser they could check first? love the car but this rms and ims is a bit scary |
as for the window, pull the panel and shoot some spray white litium grease on gears and rails. Sometimes the soundproofing gets pulled into the rails or gears also.
For the RMS- mine has been fixed three times. finally it is holding. The RMS just leaks oil and makes a mess. unless it is pouring out or you are doing a clutch anyway, fixing it is not really needed. As for the IMS- it can go without warning at any time regardless if the RMS is leaking or not. If the RMS or clutch is going to be fixed, it is simplely a matter of 600$ to have the IMS replaced. The cost of the IMS replacement is in the labor to get there to begin with. |
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thanks FTOR |
Jake Raby and Charles Navarro have been "suggesting" replcement of the IMS at normal clutch replacement intervals (40-50K miles), just to be safe until a larger base of installed units can provide better data. Last I heard, to date, no replacement LN IMS unit has failed in service................
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I would like to know what happened to the original car that began this thread. It is too bad that many times, someone pops on to state an issue and then no follow up. :(
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help if you can thanks |
Unfortunately, the only way to inspect the IMS is to pull the gear box, and then remove the clutch and flywheel. Many Porsche dealers still are telling people that the only way to change the IMS bearing is to split the cases (total disassembly of the engine), even though not just independent shops, but backyarders are pulling them from fully assembled engines and replacing them with the LN unit.
Two things to consider: If the IMS bearing had be upgraded, it would have been a featured selling point when the car was sold; dealerships (in general, as LN has won some converts) would not change the IMS bearing, they would replace the engine. You can also check with LN Engineering to see if you VIN is listed as having been upgraded………… |
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