New Engine Break In Process
 

My car recently experienced the dreaded IMS failure and was replaced with a new crate engine from Porsche. When I asked about the break in process they simply said drive it conservatively for the first 1,000 miles or so and then I was good. No need to change the oil beyond the standard recommendations.

The car currently has Mobil 1 synthetic in it (they put it in) which I want to get out of the car as soon as possible anyway. I don't want to start a war on oils, but the question is do I replace the Mobil 1 with the synthetic of my choice, or a dino oil for the first 1,000-1,500 miles which I then would replace with the synthetic of my choice?

It seems like everything I've read indicates the dino oil first with a change after 1,000-1,500 miles back to synthetic is the way to go. However, that's different than what Porsche said. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good article or two on the subject or have any thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance.

You asked for it. Pretty comprehensive article..................


http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

P.S. After reading alot of replies and debates on this subject I decided to use Castrol Synthetic (Syntec) 10W40. if you are lucky you can find it at your local Wallyworld in 5 Qt. containers priced reasonably.

+1 on all of the above & I am changing my breakin oil at 200 miles. If I were in MTS position with reman engine & mobil 1 synthetic oil in it I would be tempted to stay with full synthetic if I was sure the rings were seated (no exhaust Smoke) I will change the oil around 200 miles to try & purge dust,etc. that got into engine during assembly. I guess to an extent you have to follow Porsche recommendations to maintain Warranty, another good reason to choose Castrol as it is Porsche approved. ;)

I'd change at 500 miles
 

and I'd comply with any Porsche requirements for brand/weight oil to maintain warranty. Then change every 3k.

Full Synthetic? Yes.
Mobile 1? No
0W40? No

IMHO, YMMV

Interesting thing I was told at the Porsche dealership was they recommend not using the cruise control for the first several thousand miles. They want the engines to change revs. They said you can pretty much do anything else other than that one thing.

There are two general theories on engine break-in: drive it like you stole it, or baby it. Most race teams go with the former, and there is evidence to support the notion that this will yield a higher power producing engine. The piston aviation industry has probably the most drawn out engine break in procedures, which consist of ever higher engine loading and RPMs over multiple heat cycles. Either way, you do not want to maintain constant RPM for any length of time (hence why not to use the cruise control), and using engine braking also actually helps to seat the rings.

The concerns are twofold: you want to ensure that you get proper ring seating, but you also don't want to cause higher than needed wear. With modern manufacturing techniques, in all likelihood, any new engine is broken-in in within 50 miles no matter how you do it.

Since you are under warranty on the new motor, I would stick with a synthetic oil, both because Porsche says so, and two that you don't need a non-syn break-in oil on this engine. I would, however, change the oil after a few hundred miles, and I would not use Mobil 1 or any 0W40.

i had an engine rebuilt on a car years ago and the mechanic who built it / instaleld it told me to drive it just like I would normally drive it. he didn't want me to try and abuse it, but encouraged me to drive it hard. his only suggestion was to not leave it at the same speed/rpm fro a long period time...he wanted the engine to be moving throughout the revs and not sit at one speed .... kind of like wha thtey told you - avoid cruise.. dont take a 6 hour road trip and sit at 3000 rpm all day..

you are lucky you had it happen "soon" enough that the dealer paid.. they paid for the whole thing?

Porsche paid for 100% of the parts. I paid the labor.