1st step done, 2ond step drain the oil and look for coolant.

Don't let the compression test fool you to believe that you don't have an issue with the head. You could still have a cracked head (or block), just not right against the combustion chambers. I'm hoping it's as simple as your oil cooler. Let us know what you find with the oil cooler.

The reason I always recommend a compression check first on a 100K+ motor is to determine if the motor is worth saving.

Definitely agree on that Paul.

Looking at the comp #'s i'd say it's a tired motor. The 150 cyl is more than 10% less than the 170 cyl... just an old rule of thumb. Better readings could be taken if the motor was warmed up, and whether or not a shot of oil was injected to see if the numbers pumped up or not (ring vs. valve issue). Not sure if all that was done in this case. If this was my engine, I would rebuild it or replace it with a bigger 3.2 :)

Hey guys sorry for being M.I.A. ok so today we will be taking out the oil and also the oil cooler. I meant to do it sooner but I had a nasty cold this Sunday, so I just recooped. I wil post the results tonight. Thanks for all the help guys. As far as the compression test goes is the engine is worth saving? and also If there is no coolant does that mean it's likely to be the heat exchanger? Although I will get a pressure test on that too. :cheers:
any idea where I can get this pressure tested? or at any mechanics shop?

I think I got bad news for my car
 

So I take out the engine oil and it looks a bit weird, light brown, a little frothy.
I'm getting picks up in a bit. What does that mean? since it passed the compression test and does not throw out smoke from the exhaust.

Does that mean that it has head gasket failure? cracked head?

the mechanic said that if it was leaking coolant at least one spark plug would have been washed a little since they were all dirty.

ALSO, this car has been sitting for about 3 years so can the oil just be really dirty or somehow mixed water in those 3 years? what should I do??? someone please advice thanks!

Ive already got plan B locked in and found a great machine shop ready to test the heads and everything. And I can start dropping the engine Ill put up picks today

You did not find any antifreeze in the oil so that's good (by now if would have separated from the oil and would have been the first thing out of the drain plug).

This also means you were not pumping antifreeze through the oil passages and bearings when you were "test" running it.

Next step is to drain the coolant and pull the oil cooler for testing.

Paul, but doesnt that type of oil mean head damage?
here are the pics. Im a little confused :dance:

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I already got to the Oil Cooler all I need is to get it out.

Is this the oil cooler??? just want to make sure don't want to take the wrong thing out right : ) <br />

this things been sitting at my aunts for so long it's got rodent poop at the top hehe
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Yes that is the oil cooler, drain the coolant, then remove it.

That oil look looks bad. A leaky oil cooler can cause that.

If the oil cooler tests OK, I would find a good used motor.

If the cooler is bad, I'd flush everything and try a new one.

cool where can I get it tested at? somewhere reliable Im here in Los Angeles. Any radiator shop?

Took out the oil cooler and it look pretty jacked up. In one of the holes there are pieces of something, I cant really tell what it is but the cooler doesn't look like it's in good condition. I will get it tested. Found a bug shop that might be able to test it

Any radiator shop should be able to do it while you wait.

?????
 

Ok so I took it to this little radiator shop and they said the oil cooler was good (no leaks). But Im going to take it to this place where they machine vw's and porsches just to get a second opinion since so much rests on this thing being bad or good. So everyone thinks I should get a new engine (if the oil cooler is not the culprit) ? But isn't a head gasket job alot cheaper?

It's pretty hard to mess up a pressure test.

Do you really want to spend money on a 128K motor? You need to get "this will be a cheap fix" out of your mind.

very true :barf:
I'm just going to check it one last time because I don't think that guy had the proper plugs for the oil cooler. If this engine is truly messed up then I guess I'm upgrading to the 3.2 I think it's worth it. Is there alot of modification to do this swap?

found a type S 3.2 motor off a 2002 same settings 64,000 miles for a pretty good price, by my house

If your's is a 98, yes it is a lot of work and a lot of parts to install a 3.anything.

A used 2.5 will be the least expensive engine swap option.

Ok I guess Ill start prepping everything up to drop this puppy.

The chocolate milk colored oil indicates significant water is emulsified in the oil. If it's been sitting for 3 years the rings and valve seats are rusted to some degree on an already tired engine. And no telling how long your aunt drove it with water in the oil. Sounds like it's not the oil cooler as you describe, which I was hoping you might get out of this cheap. I don't believe that'll be the case. I'm gonna bet on a cracked head or block. Do you live up north where it gets really really cold?