Please Help - Car Failed Test
 

Hi guys I am in need of help. My 97 box failed its emissions test and I have 2 days to fix it and pass the test before the box goes into winter storage again.

My problem is that in the Hydrocarbons test the maximum allowable is .5000 and my car read .7721

The carbon monoxide and NOx test passed just fine.

I started getting a CEL when I installed the cheap aftermarket headers. The car was also in storage for about 8 months before I started it, did an oil change, ran it for about 1 hour before the test (with the stale gas). My questions is should I swap back to the stock headers and hope all goes away? My headers had 02 bungs for later model cars but my model year only has 2 sets of sensors. The 02 bungs that aren't used on the new header are plugged up with old 02 sensors to fill up the holes.

I have a OBD2 reader attached and it reads:

P1125
Oxygen sensor adaptation, upper load range, Bank 1, above limit.

Anyone knows what this means?

Perhaps I just need new 02 sensors? Or maybe the new headers aren't working with the onboard computer? Perhaps the 02 bungs on the new header is leaking air? Perhaps the new header wasn't installed well and is leaking air?

I am no emissions expert and not even sure why the header would affect the results. Perhaps it was due to the car being in long term storage? But the CEL was on.

Thanks in advance

I assume the cheap headers have no cats. Catalytic converters are technically called 3-way catalytic converters - they reduce the following three things from your emissions:

Carbon Monoxide
Hydrocarbons
Nitrogen Oxides

I'd reinstall the OEM headers, drive for a while to ensure all is emissions-ready, and try again.

In CA (I believe) a check-engine light is an automatic fail - I don't think they'll even sniff the exhaust. If you disconnect the - terminal of your battery to clear the check engine light, you may have to do a fair amount of driving to get the car emissions-ready. Google 'boxster emissions drive cycle' or similar search terms to see if you can find some tips on how to get emissions-ready with the least amount of driving.

Many OBD scanners have an emissions-ready check to see if the computer has enough data logged to be ready for smog testing. If yours has this feature, it can help take some of the guesswork (and $$$) out of wondering if you're ready to try again.

google is your friend!! I just put in "how to pass an emissions test" and got back thousands of results. You will have to go trought them to see what is BS and what is legit. :cool:

http://www.squidoo.com/howtopassemissionstest

Also, filling up your fuel tank with gasoline that contains 10% ethanol alcohol (many premium grade fuels use alcohol as an octane booster) may help lower your emissions even more. Many areas now have "reformulated" gasoline that contains alcohol or MBTE that adds oxygen to the fuel to reduce carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon emissions.

The Fuel Atomizer 2000 has helped people pass the emission test all along the west coast. I work for Wyoming Kustom GEAR LLC. so I might come across being partial but, people have reported tremendous results. A car up in Canada was reading 1620ppm of hydro-carbons and it brought it down to zero. It cost about $150 but it also cleans the inside of the engine and increases mileage. Let me know if you want more info.

http://www.heartland.org/publications/environment%20climate/article/13139/How_to_Pass_Your_Emissions_Test.html

Popular Mechanics reviewed the Fuel Atomizer 2000 five years ago when the mfr. was claiming a 300% increase in fuel economy...

Any objective reviews on this gadget you have found (Not trying to be a jerk - I'm just naturally suspicious miracle cures... most of 'em are designed to surgically remove extra cash from the pockets of rubes. :cool: )

Here's what I would do if it were my car.

1) Replace the O2 sensor throwing the code. I think that would be easier than putting the old exhaust on.

2) If that doesn't fix it (or if you don't have time to do that), I would try some RXP. RXP comes in a small orange bottle and you add it to a tank of gas when you fill up. Drive with that for about half a tank and take your test.

I have used RXP twice, and it worked both times. Granted, this was with a 1994 Ford Probe GT, but here was my scenario. I went to get a state inspection and failed emissions. Put the RXP in and passed. Exact same scenario the following annual inspection.

It's about $8 a bottle, so perhaps worth a shot. Your local auto parts store should have it.

By "Dansk Sport Exhaust" I think that means 100 cell converters & those will allow an increase in emissions. Have you passed smog test with these before?

Fresh Gas will help ( Chevron premium ) & new spark plugs help too.

Hydrocarbons are basicaly unburnt fuel so you need to increase your combustion effecentcy

Thanks for the tips so far guys. I'll try driving the heck out of the car as well as look into the RXP if I can find it.

I have passed with zero problems with my Dansk exhaust before. The problems only started when I installed the headers. I can swap out O2 sensors but I can't figure out which one to do. I guess I can do them all as well.

One of your 02 sensors is likely dead. Definitely worth replacing all 4 of the 02 sensors (with OEM/Bosch, not eBay specials that require wire splicing) if you haven't done so in the last 40K miles. I would also recommend replacing or at least cleaning the MAF while you're at it. Lots of threads on that...

Giving the ECU good sensor data will keep the fuel mixture properly set - could be your bad 02 sensor is causing the ECU to run too rich and hence the hydrocarbon levels being too high.

Thanks. Any way of figuring out which sensors might be bad first? I would do all 4 but am runnin gout of time. I got a couple of used O2 sensors kicking around that I can try swapping out with.

If your code reader indicated that the 02 sensor that was out of spec was "Bank 1" I believe that is the passenger side exhaust path, cylinders 1-3. You could try swapping sensors on that side and see if it helps.

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/whatcylinderiswhere%3F


I would still recommend replacing all the 02 sensors for new OEM ones though. Think of it as being similar to only replacing one spark plug - might help a bit, but not as reliable as replacing all at the same time.

I've gotten a few old stinky cars through Aircare with the following cheat:

- Buy a small bottle of methyl hydrate. Typically sold as a one tank shot in 125 ml doses as fuel line antifreeze.

- wait until your tank is nearly empty. Add the stuff, put in 5 l of chevron or Mohawk 94 octane.

- give the car an Italian tune-up to get it nice and hot.

- go through aircare. Pass. Quickly fill up the tank. Methyl hydrate can be rough on the internals in high concentrations, so dilute it with a full tank asap.

TMM986: I will eventually order a new MAF and new O2 sensors as well. I just want something temporarily help me pass my inspection first.

Gent: I'll try that tomorrow before going for the inspection.

What exactly does methyl hyrdate do in this case? States where I've been smogged in have only read out the OBDII codes, and so long as you aren't throwing any, you pass.

Methyl hydrate simply burns very cleanly - it combusts leaving only CO2 and H20. By adding it in high concentrations to decent fuel, you automatically improve your emissions. Too high, and you may have trouble running properly without adding nitrous, lol.

Aircare in BC sticks a sniffer up your tailpipe and measures the chemical parts per million coming out the tailpipe on a rolling road. They have a list of acceptable measurements for all the vehicle makes and models by year of production.

The downside is that it is corrosive to alluminum in the long term. Safe enough for a quick test, but not something you want to run every day.

edit: Mohawk/Husky 93/94 octane also has 10 % ethanol, which helps in similar fashion...

SO -- did you pass??
And -- what did you do to pass??

TIA, :cheers:
Roy