Quick CEL question
 

If one (or more) of the coil packs are not clicked properly into place, with the car give a CEL?

I had a squeak at start up and under partial throttle. Turns out the plugs were loose (I could remove them by hand). So I retightened, but may have missed a coil pack when reconnecting everything. And it is too late and I am tired...

Often a 30x where x is the cylinder with the bad spark
 

Good luck.

Would help if I had connected the #2 spark plug connector to the coil pack... :o

Hopefully, you also put a dab of anti seize on each of the plug's threads before you installed them, and you also now know why torque wrenches were invented....

Yes!! and Yes!! :o

Nowhere in the Factory Service manual, or the Factory Repair manual is the use of an anti-sieze agent recommended for a spark plug change.

Also, the standard for torque specs always assumes a dry thread (unless specifically noted otherwise). If you use any kind of dry or wet lubricant, you need to reduce the torque spec 50% or find a lubricated fastener torque spec chart. If not, you will over-torque the fastener because the torque spec takes into account the friction present in a dry threaded fastener. Over-torque risks over-stretching the fastener or stripping the tap, in this case, the Head.

:cheers:

In thirty years of putting plugs in various Porsche engines, we have always used anti seize, torqued to factory specs and have never had an issue, ever………and we are not the only shop out here that does the exact same thing because of the number of times we have encountered plugs that galled the treads in alloy heads because anti seize had not been used when they were installed…..............

I'll agree with JFP here, and go one farther and say that if more people knew what anti-seize was many of us would have an easier time working on other people's cars :)