08-20-2009, 07:07 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 56
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Did a Motorflush with GUNK motorflush and change oil WOW!
Dang finished it up and it feels like a brand new car!!! The oil that i drained out before i put the motor flush in it was about golden brown, looked like pretty healthy oil, then i put the motor flush in and idled for about 10 mins then drained the oil and it was BLACK. I'm talking really black like the way oil looks if you don't change it for a year. Put in Mobil 1 High mileage oil 10w-30 (she has 80k miles) and filled er up and now she feels REALLY good. Acceleration is so smooth and even just reving it, it doesn't feel heavy anymore. Better throttle response and just smoother all around drive it feels like a brand new car.
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08-20-2009, 07:11 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 379
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IS Gunk the brand name?
I might try it...
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08-20-2009, 07:15 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chitowndad
IS Gunk the brand name?
I might try it...
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Yea it's the brand name you can pick it up at your local auto parts store i got mine from Autozone. Basically what it does is it's a cleaning agent that cleans out everywhere your oil goes. So the walls of the cylinder sleeves, the crank case, the pistons, the rods everything. They do the same stuff at oil change places but they charge u like $40 there u can DIY for like $10
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08-20-2009, 08:11 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Du Monde
Posts: 2,199
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I assume that you used either their 5 MINUTE MOTOR FLUSH or their SYNTHETIC MOTOR FLUSH. If so, plan on doing a short interval oil change in the next 500-1000 miles (personally I'd go no more than 500 miles).
That's because this product is more than 75% solvents, mostly kerosene, and simply draining it with the oil does not eliminate it all from the system, nor does the new oil really dilute it in any way. Instead, the remaining solvents tend to cause an early breakdown of the 'new' oil.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not averse to using a motor flush at all. But, if you don't get it all out, your attempt to clean the motor can, over the long run, actually do more harm than good. If flushing the motor, consider it a $100-$200 project, or don't do it at all.
You don't state what weight oil you were running before the flush. While you may well have improved the engine performance, if you started with 40 or 50 weight and switched to 30 weight, that could well account for what you're experiencing. Btw, the general concensus is that 30 weight oil is too light for the M96 engine (do a search on motor oil weights here - no shortage of reading material). If short servicing it in the near future, I would recommend refilling with a 40 weight oil.
Last edited by Lil bastard; 08-20-2009 at 08:13 PM.
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08-20-2009, 08:42 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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"Lil" nailed it.
Put the stuff in.. drain it.. put CHEAP/JUNK oil back in for a couple of hundred miles, then switch to the oil of your choice!
B
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08-20-2009, 08:48 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts
"Lil" nailed it.
Put the stuff in.. drain it.. put CHEAP/JUNK oil back in for a couple of hundred miles, then switch to the oil of your choice!
B
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Hmm alright then, good thing i didn't spend too much on oil, i got the 5 quart jugs from walmart Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w-30 $20 for a 5 quart jug. I'll try to find some 10w-40 mobil 1 of the same stuff
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08-20-2009, 08:43 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil bastard
I assume that you used either their 5 MINUTE MOTOR FLUSH or their SYNTHETIC MOTOR FLUSH. If so, plan on doing a short interval oil change in the next 500-1000 miles (personally I'd go no more than 500 miles).
That's because this product is more than 75% solvents, mostly kerosene, and simply draining it with the oil does not eliminate it all from the system, nor does the new oil really dilute it in any way. Instead, the remaining solvents tend to cause an early breakdown of the 'new' oil.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not averse to using a motor flush at all. But, if you don't get it all out, your attempt to clean the motor can, over the long run, actually do more harm than good. If flushing the motor, consider it a $100-$200 project, or don't do it at all.
You don't state what weight oil you were running before the flush. While you may well have improved the engine performance, if you started with 40 or 50 weight and switched to 30 weight, that could well account for what you're experiencing. Btw, the general concensus is that 30 weight oil is too light for the M96 engine (do a search on motor oil weights here - no shortage of reading material). If short servicing it in the near future, I would recommend refilling with a 40 weight oil.

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I used 10w-30 full synthetic before and after because that's mostly what they sell in 90% of stores around here. I usually keep a very close eye on my oil levels and color. Making sure that it's no darker than golden brown and it's sitting right right at optimum level. My next oil change i'll have to try a 40 weight or 50 weight, but so far 30 weight has been good to me. If i notice the oil getting much darker prematurely i would of course change the oil earlier but for now i've been noticing the car runs much smoother, much better throttle response and it just feels not as heavy as it used to.
This was my experience with the motor flush i'll have to update this after sometime to see how it all worked out.
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01-29-2010, 07:51 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 33
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Beware, any time I've used this product it has blown my seals. Result in an old Audi 5000, 4000 and 78' 924. I never use the stuff anymore. The black might be more than your oil.
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01-29-2010, 10:54 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 3,033
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Anybody using a quality synthetic oil shouldn't have to use stuff like this Gunk. Good oil has additives that "clean" the engine and remove buildup/deposits or prevents them from occuring in the first place.
Last edited by Adam; 01-29-2010 at 04:06 PM.
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01-29-2010, 03:34 PM
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#10
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Porscheectomy
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle Area
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bermuditis
Beware, any time I've used this product it has blown my seals. Result in an old Audi 5000, 4000 and 78' 924. I never use the stuff anymore. The black might be more than your oil.
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I have to ask... why would you use it a third time if it blew out your seals twice before?
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02-01-2010, 05:37 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: manchester england
Posts: 15
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you may have read in an article i have posted in this section about oil in my inlet manifold
ive had major problems with my box ,and was begining to think the engine was a gonna
but ! the one thing i hadnt changed was the oil filter ,i changed the oil when i bought it ,but didnt have the tool to get the oil filter off and consdiering it had a major service 7months before thought i was being over cautous doing the oil change ,anyway i took the filter off ,and couldnt believe what i saw ,i should have taken a piccy for the forum
the filter cartridge was stuck in the filter housing with black silt ,it was like the kinda stuff you'd get from the bottom of a pond or river ,i cleaned it out ,cleaned around the filter housing,changed the oil(which was golden brown and looked normal) and stuck a new filter on
now this problem may have killed my engine as its not running right and has excessive blowby which i thought was the AOS ,i changed it and no difference
Its having a diagnostic ,comression test and camrea down its bore tomorrow
so we'll see what happens
maybe flushing it may have prevented this or made it worse?
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