Help!
 

Hi all. I know the Secondary Air Injection/0410/1411 problem has been covered here many times over the last 5 years or so, but I haven't found any posters who follow through with the end results. I'm currently having the same problem and am after some advice.

This is going to be a little long-winded, but I'm sure the technically qualified will appreciate the extra details when trying to come up with a solution.

History - I drive a 6 spd '02 Boxster S with 65k miles. About a year ago it started throwing the 0410/1411 codes every month or so, setting the CEL when the engine was cold. I cleaned the MAF sensor with CO2 cleaner and the problem went away. About the the same time I bought an SUV as my daily driver, so the Boxster only did about 8-10k miles in the next 12 months.

The Problem - About a month ago the car started throwing a 0410 code weekly, with a slight decrease in power and fuel economy. Freeze frame data from my Innova 3100a Code Reader was;

Fuel Sys 1 OL-Drive
Fuel Sys 2 OL-Drive
Calc Load (%) 9.80
ECT ('F) 118
STFT B1 (%) -5.47

This morning the CEL was set again, this time the 0410 was accompanied by the 1411 like last year. Over the last few days there has been a significant decrease in power and fuel economy (40m/quarter tank of gas). The following freeze frame data was also captured;

Fuel Sys 1 OL
Fuel Sys 2 OL
Calc Load (%) 15.69
ECT ('F) 118
STFT B1 (%) -6.25

I'm pretty sure the air injection pump is coming on when I first start up (have only checked it once so might be intermittent). I have also cleaned the MAF again (no change this time).

My Dilemma - My SUV is off the road with a cracked radiator and other problems. I can't afford to pull the Boxster apart to fault find it as I need it to get to work every day, plus I have very little spare time right now. I also live more than 2hrs from the nearest dealer and can't afford to have them fix it anyway. It's also due for it's smog/rego this Monday.

What I'm After - Can anyone with real qualifications and/or experience suggest with some confidence which is the most likely component I should look at first, given the limited time I have to spend fault finding and repairing (the air-change valve, electric change-over valve, the line between them or something else)?

What's In It For You? - If someone can nail this problem, I'm willing to offer some sort of remuneration. Depending on your location and amount of help offered, there could be a case/carton of one of the best beers in the world, Australia's James Boags Premium, or for the non-beer drinkers, a bottle of your favorite hard liqour headed your way. If you're not in the CA/NV area, or you're a non-drinker, I'm sure there's a giftcard out there with your name on it.

So, if you think you can help, or require extra info, please post here or email me at saf_069@hotmail.com. I'm heading to NY for the next 5 days to celebrate (commiserate) my 40th birthday, so might take a day or two to get back to you.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

-Scott

I am having the same problem. I have followed the write-ups as far as the valves. All things seem to be working correctly up to that point. No leaks or unconnected wires, air pump working properly etc. Rather than rip apart the engine parts necessary to diagnose the problem, put it back together, wait for the parts and then rip it all back apart to install the parts I choose to order both the electrical and air valves( under ($100) and just put them in. The local Porsche mechanic told me that no warm will come to the engine or cats if I ran it till I got the parts. My way might not be the correct way but being a landscaper I have only a few hours off and I chose not to waste them. I can make more money in the time that it takes to pull thr valves and check them than the cost of two sets of valves. Good Luck, Ed

You may find some help here
 

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/checkenginelightcausedbymassairflowsensor

Specifically the flow chart will give you an idea of the probability of things that could go wrong and the order in which to investigate.

Any chance that you'll take some pics of the DIY? I need to do mine and it may be helpful.

Wiil Try. Ed

After doing a visual inspection and checking the air injection pump (all good) I've decided to follow Ed's plan and just change both the elec ($25) and air ($188) valves. Can anyone tell me the best way to get access to them both? I've had a look down through the top access but can't see an easy way to get to them. I've got the Bentley Service Manual but it only seems to have a system description, no maintenance instructions.

Thanks,

-Scott

I'm sure this has been covered somewhere, and you've probably tried it, but my .02 would be that it sounds like a vaccum leak. Porsches are weird about that, in that most of the time they "cope" and still run somewhat normal unless its a big leak.

Get a handheld propane tank (small torch, open the valve, but don't light it) and wave it slowly through your engine compartment. Chances are you will find a small leak somewhere (you'll hear it rev-up a little).

Just a thought, been down that road and sometimes things like this are hard to diagnose given the fact that there are a lot of hidden areas such as intake manifold runners and AOS boots.

Good luck, and keep us posted of your findings.

Does anyone know where I can get detailed instructions on removing the air intake manifold so i can get to the two valves mentioned in my previous post?

Did anyone ever replace the valve and switch yet? Did you happen to take pics and come up with the DIY? This still may be a Fall project for me.
Thanks

I'm in the same boat. pump seems to be working. but throwing the codes. thought I might go this route too.
please post a follow up on what's involved in replacing the the parts mentioned. for the cost, it seems like a logical thing to try....