Bleeding clutch slave??
 

I disconnected the clutch fluid line at the transaxle to give more room for leftside axle removal on my 2000 S , replaced everything bled according to Bentley manual but clutch pedal still does nothing, slams to the floor. Any ideas what could be wrong??

sounds like you did not have the clutch pedal depressed when you bled the line. It needs to be depressed the entire time while bleeding the clutch line to open the master cylinder. Once you've finished bleeding, you'll need to manually pull the clutch pedal back up as it won't return on it's own the first time.

You could have a bad master cylinder but I think you have lots of air in the line (caused by not depressing the clutch pedal for the bleed).

:)

I bled with pedal up & down with no result, never had any problem with pedal/clutch before disconnecting the line & now fluid is clean & air free after runing a pint of new fluid thru. My 2000 S does have 85,000 miles thou

Help!! Help!! :dance:

Must of had a pocket of trapped air in the slave cyl. I upped the pressure on the bleeder to 28PSI & farted out the hiding air. Got 3" of pedal travel. Drove the car 3-4 miles & the pedal returned to max height

:D

bleeding clutch slave
 

for the DIY to bleed a clutch slave with no shop equipment can be impossible sometimes.
Here is a sure fire way to do it with out a power bleeder.

1. run a clear plastic line from a rear brake caliper bleeder to the clutch slave bleeder.
2. be sure the brake master is full of fluid
3. have someone depress the brake pedal and hold it, not to hard but hard enough to keep it depressed
4. while they are holding the brake firm open the bleeder for the caliper and now open the bleeder for the clutch slave
5. the brake pedal will go down and stop, air will bubble up into the clutch master reservoir
6. close the caliper bleeder and refill the brake reservoir
7. do the same procedure again, depress brake and hold, open bleeder and push fluid through clutch system in reverse
8. do this for 5 or so times, each time keeping brake master cylinder full
9. in essence you are reverse bleeding the clutch system

Awesome idea !

Why bother with all the in-between stuff?

Why not just reverse bleed it directly from the power bleeder to the slave bleed nipple and extract any excess fluid from the MC with a Turkey Baster?

This way you totally eliminate the possibility of introducing air into the brake system because you're not opening the brake master cylinder at all. They are two distinct systems.

Both the clutch and the brakes have their own separate master cylinders, the clutch master is low, behind the firewall opposite the clutch pedal. They only share a common fluid reservoir.

:cheers:

Technically you are correct.
However, I am under the assumption a DIY (do it yourselfer) would not have access to a power bleeder. This is a simple work around.

Originally Posted by Frank M

Technically you are correct.
However, I am under the assumption a DIY (do it yourselfer) would not have access to a power bleeder. This is a simple work around.

IMHO, a power bleeder is almost as essential a piece of kit as a set of sockets given the fact that flushing/bleeding the clutch/brakes is perhaps the most frequent maintenance item on the Boxster - every 2 yrs.

They're relatively cheap to own, especially given the cost of having a pro do the work for you. You're actually in the black the first time you use it.

For years, the Motive Power Bleeder was the most sensible bleeding tool for the DIYer. It was cheap, reliable and well built giving many years of good service. I have owned one for many years and it's been used at least 25 times both on my cars and friends'.

http://usera.ImageCave.com/Lilbastard/PowerBleeder.jpg

Motive Power Bleeder

But recently, I came across a power bleeder from Bavauto which costs the same as the Motive, but which offers many advantages over the Motive product. First, it has a separate filler cap, so you don't have to disconnect everything (at the risk of getting brake fluid in the 'frunk' or on the paintwork) to add more fluid to the bottle. It also has a dedicated pressure release valve, so you don't have to unscew it from the master cylinder, or the pump top to release the pressure (again at the risk of spilling/spraying fluid everywhere). Finally, it has a swivel joint on the MC cap, so you don't have to try and twist the whole bottle around to screw/unscew from the master cylinder. I have used the Bavauto unit personally and found it to be just as good, but much more convenient, than the Motive unit.

Unfortunately, given that I'm so cheap that I even take all my cordless tools to the office to recharge them ;) , I cannot ditch my perfectly usable Motive Bleeder in favor of the one from Bavauto. But, if I were buying a power bleeder today, the Bavauto unit would be the only one I'd consider.

:cheers:


http://usera.ImageCave.com/Lilbastard/pb03.jpg

Bavauto power bleeder

how much do you want for your old one?