How are these alignment settings?
 

I have a 01 S Tip, now with Eibach Pro springs, so far car has no track time , so street use.


http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...bf6ae39f56.jpg

Too much camber = chew rear tires extra fast! :D

Rear camber is adjusted to the limit, not sure about front.

toe
 

Although the rear negative camber will cause accelerated rear tire wear (inside edge) in street driving, I am more worried about the rear toe. One degreee of toe-in is a HUGE amount, and it is grossly outside the specifications. That toe setting will eat the outer edges of your tires very quickly. Do not leave it like that! If they have to re-adjust the rear camber to a more negative value in order to get the toe back in specification, they should do it. Your "before" readings indicate that should be feasible.

If you want to run the car with these springs on the street, you should consider investing in some of the aftermarket adjustible suspension links that will allow rear camber to be reduced while keeping rear toe at a reasonable value.

I concur with Blue-S to an extent. The person doing the alignment obviously sacrificed toe in the rear to get the camber down to something more reasonable. I think this was a poor choice. Negative camber will have an impact on tire wear, but will not negatively impact handling. In fact, more negative camber is very desireable with racing. Too much toe on the other hand could make your handling worse. I do my own alignments with my lowered cars (coil over systems). I pretty much adjust the rear to get the toe perfect and then just let the camber fall where it does (as long as it's balanced, no more than 0.1 degree difference side to side). I don't really care if I have 2.5 to 3.0 degrees of negative camber. I can buy more tires and enjoy the good handling for now.

If you want it perfect for a street setup, then you'll probably need adjustable toe arms (I like Tarett) to get both the camber and toe right.

The front looks fine to me. You can't really get less negative camber than -1 with lowering springs.

Kirk

Thanks. Tarett price is a little steep for me right now. Do you know anybody else that makes them?

I've got the blue ones from Delubozparts sold on eBay and they've been great thus far. My alignment numbers after adding these and running Ksport Kontrol Coilovers is all GREEN on the readout :)

You must get new rear toe arms to compensate for the springs. Look at it this way, Tarret arms are @400, but new tires are more than 400$ and dont even mention that if you get in a spin and hit something you will wish you paid the 400 for the new arms so that the car will handle smoothly.
I tried the Dubleozs (CHE) version and the head hit the inside of my after market rims. So I was forced to go with tarret.

Here are your choices:
Che blue version - cheap but my fit, may not
Tarett/TRG/ERP/GMG (uses stock tie rod ends to ensure fittment)
Porsche motorsport cup version (expensive, but the best for track)

Be smart and do it right the first time. The cost of tires alone will make it worth it.

I wish I would be so lucky that I would have $450+shipp. for Taretts out of my back pocket, but living 11 months with unemployment kind of affects that. Anyway I have 18" rims, so would think they are gonna be OK and difference from $450 to $200....

Sorry that I was so ********************y, but I try to make my car payments so I can keep the car additional of living cost. Of course I would go with the best if I had the $$, but now my option is Che's in a month or so or Tarett in 4 months ( and rear tires).

Thanks,

Ches arms are good solid arms. When I tried them with my 18inch deep dish aftermarket rims, the head just would not fit and when the car was on the ground, the wheel would not turn because the bulbous knuckle rammed the inside of the rim. If they would fit, they would be fine.
Che was very nice and refunded all of the $$ even though I had mounted the arms.

I would try ches arms and see if they fit, if so great, leave it at that.

Will do, thanks.

I have had a similar problem. I lost control of the car and I hit my rear passenger wheel. I broke the rim. So i replaced the rim and took it for an alignment and the guy told me that he can't get it back to perfect. I did a lot of research and finally was told to replace the wheel carrier. That cost me a pretty penny. I took it back for another alignment and it seems like the values are still slightly off. Should i worry about them. I only do street driving and i'm just worried that i will ruin the brand new tires i have on it now.

bump bump bump.

Alignment settings... Anyone?