Boxster "clunking" when cornering.
1997 Boxster 5 speed car clunks a bit when cornering but only when turning left...should I check front engine mount?
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Boxtaboy had the exact same symptom, and it turned out to be the front motor mount. If you don't want to get under the car, you can get a pretty good look at the mount if you remove the engine access panel behind the seats. You will see it near the center, at the lowest edge of the opening. If your look is not conclusive, start the car with the panel off and rev the engine. If the mount is toast, you will see a lot of movement (torquing) of the engine. Be careful when you remove the panel if you start the engine. Lots of rotating parts! Regards, Maurice. |
Yep, as Maurice said, I had what felt like grinding or shudder in the left rear axle when making turns. In my case, it was on right hand turns under moderate power (usually in 2nd gear). There was not really a clunking sound though.
Turned out my motor mount was torn, and allowed the engine to shift enough during cornering to upset the driveline geometry. I thought at first it was a driveline or suspension issue, but the installation of the new motor mount cured the problem. and I can't recreate the noise anymore. |
Hey guys,
My recent history with my '98 Boxster with 80k miles on it when I purchased it a couple of weeks ago were two separate clunk noises, under different circumstances. The first clunk noise, which was the engine mount, happened mostly in straight lines, under firm to moderate acceleration, and most noticeably under shifting conditions. Also, if I was at highway speed, cruising along at a constant speed, and let off the throttle, the car felt like it would pull to one side for just a moment, and then straighten out. If I then got hard on the throttle, the car then felt like it would pull to the opposite side. This feeling was very faint, but noticeable. The second noise I had was coming from the right rear of the car, and only happened when I was taking a right hand curve under moderate power. The sharper the curve, and the more power I was trying to use, the worse the noise was. That noise is better described as a shudder. The cure for that was new rear struts. I just replaced them yesterday, and the right rear strut was completely dead. As soon as I removed it from the car, and remove the spring, the piston sank right into the strut body, and that was that. The left side is still good, and I will probably hold onto it for a while. Not all noises are the same. BC. |
Quote:
|
Found problem. Engine mount torn to shiat...Thanks
|
There is a guy on PPBB who remanufactures these engine mounts. Might save you a few bucks.
His name is Pedro and he is in Florida. |
Quote:
As you can see, my old mount was shot at 58k miles: http://i43.tinypic.com/2iv086t.jpg |
Quote:
Regards, Maurice. |
Quote:
|
I took it to the shop, and the guy said I needed a lower control arm, and strut mounts. The price after labor was quoted around $1300.00. He said the control arm with labor is around $900.00 alone. It sounds like he was quoting me the price of an adjustable control arm. Does anyone know if the OEM part is adjustable or not? I found some non-adjustable control arms for a couple hundred vs. $700.00.
|
Quote:
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:08 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website