Check your CV boots
 

While installing M030 last night, I came across four cracked and torn CV boots on my 2000 Boxster S (with only 40,000 miles). The boots aren't hard to replace, but most of the rear suspension has to be disassembled to get them out. Fortunately for us, most of the rear suspension was disassembled for the M030 install. :rolleyes:

There is a great writeup for CV boot replacement on the PelicanParts website posted by a Carrera owner (basically the same for us so I won't rehash here). Still, removing, cleaning, repacking, and reinstalling both axles added a good 2-2.5 hours to our labor.

Boots were $42.32 apiece at the stealer (Tischer Porsche in Silver Spring, MD - don't go there. Their parts department is terrible). Part number 928.332.293.02. You also need clamps, one 928.332.257.01 and one 911.332.257.00 clamp per boot.

Anyway, check those boots.

Hey John,
Thanks for the info. Could you add the link? :cheers:

There's actually a better thread on this site that isn't too old - I don't have it handy so you can probably find it quicker with a search. :)

No problem. Here's the thread link below. I thought that maybe you found something else that could help the other folks out there. :)


http://986forum.com/forums/search.php?searchid=260229

I had all 4 torn on my 2000 S when I bought it last year at 46k. It was turned up in the PPI, so I knew what to expect. My mechanic cleaned out the joints pretty good and said no damage at all to the bearings, so I don't think it had been that way very long.

-David

I also flipped my joints left to right to even out the wear (if there was indeed any). Yes, I am a bit compulsive... ;)

I had one small slit in one of mine also turned up on the ppi at 45k. I think it was about $420 to have all four replaced. Maybe overkill but I decided to replace the other three while they were under there.

I believe all of the part numbers listed match the boot kit for my '87 928S4. The boot itself is not numbered separately so you would need to check, but if it's the same then you can get the whole kit from 928 Specialists for $15. The kit includes a boot, both clamps, the grease and an end cap.

The end cap doesn't match so it's a throw away part, but going from around $200 to $60 for all four boots....I'd be willing to toss it. ;)

Good to know. If I had noticed this prior to disassembling the rear of the car for a suspension swap I would have ordered the stuff and waited. But since I didn't, I didn't! :cheers:

Whats the problem?
 

I just did a 4 boot replacement on mine. The Boots are 928 boots....like it or not.
I got 4 of them for 12 bucks a piece....
I had the bearing grease and I reused the clamps....There were 2 types..one was easier than the other to disassemble and reassemble..

You dont have to disassemble the suspension to get the shafts out, just the bottom supports. I didnt even have to take out the exhaust like some people said you have to do on the drivers side. You will need a bearing puller to get the shaft from the wheel.

You disassemble one end of the shaft and slip them on....Its not hard at all...just a little messy...

BUT....the boots are the same from a 928...I complained about putting 928 parts on my 986.

All in all it was an easy job.

You don't need a bearing puller to get the axles out.

You're right about not having to disassemble the suspension - but we already had it apart in my case.

They're not 928 parts, they're Boxster parts. They just happen to have a 928 part number because like a lot of things on the Boxster, they were in the parts bin and used to "cut cost" :rolleyes: . I don't see what the concern is.

You need an AXLE puller to press the axles out of the hubs. You use three lug bolts to attach it to the hub, and the big screw in the center presses the axle out.

How else would you do it? I guess you could pound on it with a hammer and a piece of pipe or something, but that's a really bad idea. Especially when the proper tool is usually available to be "borrowed" from your local auto parts store for free.

A deadblow hammer worked perfectly well for me, and will not damage the axle internals. No need for an axle pusher or bearing puller.

You can accomplish the same thing using a wooden dowel and a non-deadblow hammer as well.

Depending on how stuck your axles are, I suppose a hammer would be OK. I'm just kind of a stickler for using the right tool for the job. While hammers are a popular tool, they are rarely the right tool. ;)

removing axle nut
 

So I've also got my suspension down and put on HR springs. While out I see the inner boot on my 2002 Boxster S is ripped (48k miles). I don't have an air compressor and my Crafstman 7.5 amp gun won't crack the nut. Do I need a 3/4 electric gun to get it off?

Shel
2002 Boxster S
1995 M3

No, what you need is a long cheater bar on the end of your breaker bar.

I used the handle from my jack. It's about four feet long and was more than long enough to break the nut loose.

Sorry, but the 928 came out in '87 with the same replacement parts for the last 20 years. Porsche always uses the first three numbers to designate the original model the part was designed for. If a part is "general", like a nut or bolt, originally created for several different models, then it usually has a 900 at the beginning of the part number or another number that is not a Porsche model number. ;)

Having 928 parts on the Box is a plus. It's a much more powerful, faster car that started at over $60K in the '80s. Be happy, our boots were made for a V8 powerhouse that was perfectly balanced and is now on the flat 6, perfectly balanced Porsche of today. :cheers: