Hey all! I've been slowly taking better care of my neglected boxster and I think its time to tackle the head unit.

I currently have an inexpensive double din unit in my denter console that I bought from China, and its really uninspiring. The Android Auto works fine, but the display has zero anti-glare so when I'm driving with the top down (as I usually do) I can't see a damn thing. This means my navigation is useless, my media control is abysmal, and overall I'm having a poor experience which has been searching for an upgrade.

In a perfect world I would like something that looks OEMish, something visually consistent with the rest of the interior. I also want at least a few physical buttons for things like music control (volume, forward, bac, etc.). I also NEED to be able to see the display on a sunny day, with the top down, and my polarized glasses on.

Anyone have an idea of it this Holy grail product exists?

My 2000 S had pixels in n the center LCD screen so I replaced all 3 screens and all seemed to be good until I drove the car. The tach reads (mostly?) correct at start up, but every time I accelerate it moves slowly up about 2K until it top out at the end of the range then it will stay there. I assume I damaged something on the circuit board during the repair but before I bought a used replacement I thought I would check here. I triple checked the connections and they are all good.

Hi all,

Trying to diagnose a noise on my 2000 S (~42k miles, manual). When the engine is coasting down I get a raspy/sucking/grinding noise. From inside the car it sounded like brake pads slightly dragging over the rotors but I also get it when the car is stationary.

If I rev up to ~4k RPM and take my foot off the gas, there's a slight pause and then the noise starts until RPMs fall. It is not present at idle. Most noticeable when in 2nd gear and coming to a stop, but doesn't matter if the clutch is in our out or which gear. The slightest touch of the throttle makes the noise instantly go away. Half a millimeter in and it's gone. It's also not present on a cold start but appears relatively quickly as the engine warms.

Because of that brief pause before the noise starts I assumed one of the clutched pulleys on the engine - I replaced the alternator pulley which *had* failed, and that solved some belt squeal I was getting when doing 3-point turns, but did not fix this noise. The AC compressor pulley feels OK and clutches on/off with the climate control button. All other pulleys feel good.

IMS has been done, and due to the relatively low miles I'm hoping nothing mechanical. Otherwise the car runs beautifully. The fact that it immediately cuts off if I tap the throttle even the slightest bit and that re-snorkeling the car made it much quieter has me leaning towards some weird intake/throttle body/PCV system noise but I'm not sure what to check next.

If relevant, the car has an aftermarket exhaust and resonated midpipes but stock headers/cats.

Any thoughts? Here's a video: https://youtube.com/shorts/wvFSzaEDqjU?feature=share

Selling the Boxster S. Check the listing on my local Craigslist. Does have a hard top available but not included. Looking to make a deal, so reasonable offers will be entertained.
thank you for looking.


https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/pittsford-2000-porsche-boxster/339qnEhPvg5Zdx23zT1EQ9

Hi Gurus. My 2001 Boxster S got into a situation where neutral got jammed so I couldn't shift past second . I found that the issue was a metal sleeve on the cable popped out and jammed against the end of the cable. I managed to push it back in to the point shown in this photo.
That worked for a couple days but it popped out again. Did this break internally or didn't I push it in far enough? Is the permanent fix a new cable?

Sent from my SM-S921W using Tapatalk

I used to rebuild and convert 986 and 996.1 headlights. Lost an eye and no longer can do it correctly. I have a large collection of misc headlights and misc regular and litronic parts. If you're looking for any headlights or headlight parts just let me know. If someone is close to me, Indiana I'd make the a great price on all of it, pick up.only. Pics of partial stuff, plus more.

Hi guys, I took my boxster to get tinted and the tint shop broke My windshield. They ended up replacing it for me. I guess I should’ve done better due diligence - but they never replaced the trim. I can’t find the titanium trim piece. **************** has hit the fan. The shop is so nice and offered to buy me a new one, but I can’t even find it. Does anybody know of any extras? I don’t even know what to do. I can find the straight black for the base model that’s it. I don’t wanna go back to the tint shop. I found a reputable windshield company in my town. I’m just looking for advice and if anybody knows of any leads on that part.
986 541 541 02 9A4

I have decided to try to resolve the airbag warning light issue in my 2000 boxster base. WIth the original airbag control module I got a long list of errors with the most relevant being:
3 – supply
21 - ignition circuit driver
195 - Control module internal fault - All fault codes over 100 indicate a critical fault and usually require a new control module

Because of the error 197 I tried the module from my 2000 S and got only the error:
21 - ignition circuit driver
So it would seem that this is a valid error.
Next I bought a module off ebay that is from a 2003 Boxster S.
All three of the modules I have are identified as:
AIRBAG SENSOR
996.618.219.01
MRSZ2
There is also what I am sure is a build date (week and year), the original from my base is 48/99, from my S 51/99 and the module I bought is 51/02.

When I installed the new module in the base I got the following errors:
21 - ignition circuit driver (as expected)
but also
23 Belt tensioner driver’s
25 Belt tensioner passenger’s
53 Side airbag Sensor driver
56 Side airbag Sensor passenger

So I tried the new module in my S and got, after a reset:
23 Belt tensioner driver’s
25 Belt tensioner passenger’s

So… assuming that the module from my S is functioning correctly and not finding any errors on my S
Why is the new module producing codes 23 and 25 on the S?
Why is the new module producing codes 23, 25, 53 and 56 on the base when the module from the S does not?

Finally, what can I do to correct the error 21?
My plan at this point is to remove the driver’s seat and check the connections to the belt buckle and to check the steering wheel airbag connection, since from what I have read the problem may be in these connections.

Any help or suggestions appreciated.

Guys
2000 Boxster S ….Switch went bad and in process of replacing all was good until I was about to remove the single 20torx at the right side of the light switch…I am doing the long version to include the DS vent for better access…
Anyway there is not a 20 tort at the right side if the housing unit but there is something anchoring at this point .
Looking into the cavity of the opening for 20torx I can see some kind of anchor at the waty back …but it’s very small and not able to identify this anchor .I know it’s anchored here as cannot pry loose the plastic vent , stops at this location.
Has anyone had this situation or oddity of anchorage of the vent housing at the light switch
Thanks for assistance
Frank

This regards a 2002 Boxster S with 105,000 miles. I purchased the car at ~101,000 miles and at that time I replaced the IMSB, Variocam pads, and the three chain tensioners. Cam deviations now sit at -2.39 for Bank 1 and 0.64 for Bank 2. The idle is still a little rough. I chased down all vacuum leaks and fuel trims seem ok: Bank 1 FRA 1.02% RKAT -0.28 Bank 2 FRA 1.02% RKAT -0.28.

I did notice something odd in the running data though, the "Actual angle for camshaft" reading for Bank 1 seems to hunt or oscillate.

What could be causing this? I've swapped cam sensors on the banks and still same result. Could the Variocam actuator be leaking oil pressure causing its position to flutter like this? It's the same when running the engine at higher RPM and the Variocam switches over. Appreciate everyone's thoughts!

Attached Images

 

Father's Day weekend was our annual Club Race and DE at MPH in Hastings, NE. I wear many hats for our club and this event was no different - registrar (badge builder for 70 ppl), novice classroom teacher, and also novice instructor. But since the Cayman is still being rebuilt, no car to drive myself. :mad:

Except I saw an MPH Facebook post saying they rent cars for their local club events. I contacted them and asked if they'd rent for our DE. They were surprised that we allowed non-Porsches to partipate, but yeah, they'd rent to me. They showed a 2005-era Mustang GT. I had a special need of being avail for track time all day Fri, half days Sat & Sun, for a total of 2 days. Worked for them.

It was in race trim with grippy tires, roll cage, gutted int, suspension upgrades, but no mods to the 300hp 4.6L engine. Darn, no more HP than my Cayman. I was hoping for more so I could duke it out with all the hot rods in the advanced run group.

The car was a beast compared to my Cayman, but for the most part, I drove similar lines. 2 exceptions - T8 I had to dip to an early apex to induce a bit of understeer on exit (if I drove a normal line, the backend wanted to come around), and I had to get slowed down way earlier into T9. Otherwise, the lines were similar. The 1 thing better in the Mustang was throttle response - it was instantaneous vs my Cayman which is geared higher and takes longer to build up speed. Speaking of gearing, the Mustang trans was crap. Tractors have better gear shifting ability.

I had an employee who took care of me. He checked tire pressures, oil levels, and other items after every session. Felt kind of special with my own pit crew. This was their 1st rental to someone outside of the Hastings community and they were making sure it went well. I'd certainly recommend it as it was a fun experience and gave me some track time while my car is sitting quiet.

https://youtu.be/7s-u-pIPpcQ?si=CZ6zA0pqTTd-aOhT

https://youtu.be/UonQ-oxG2HU?si=wPu0kFrctR560krL

I'm certain I broke a personal best in the 1st video and felt certain I had a faster lap on the last lap of the 2nd video, but unfortunately my timer didn't work correctly in that 2nd video.

I have a 2002 Boxster with 98,000 miles. A very simple problem. My driver side seat belt retract spring is very week and won't retract all the way. Can the spring be tightened or am I looking at replacing the belt? Maybe new belts on both sides might not be such a bad idea.
Cheers, Elliot

Hi all-
New to the Porsche community and have been looking for a phone mount that matches the sleekness of the car but don’t want to do anything invasive making that happen. I don’t want to take anything apart or mod or risk putting weight on anything not made for this. I have been working on a making the simplest design and least invasive with functionality in mind. I think i have found it. I have a couple prototypes and was thinking about making and selling more but i wanted to post here and see if it would gain traction.
Please see images below. This is using MagSafe technology for iPhones but can also be android applicable with included rings. It’s costed around $50 make so far and - to get perfect but think i can lower cost now that I’ve gotten a better idea. Next step is to wrap in leather which will add more $ but worth it for looks and matching of the car.
Best-
Garrett

Hey all! I recently started a new job that has me relying on my 986 as more of a commuter car than a fun weekend car. Because of this I'm realizing some of its shortcomings as a daily, but I'm hoping that with a little elbow grease I won't have to replace it with a boring toaster of a car.

The issue is the roads surrounding my office are very rough. Lots of horizontal patches in the road that cause the car to bump, shake, and rattle as I am making my commute. This makes the tail end of the drive quite miserable to deal with, and it also makes me hesitant to give coworkers a ride in the fun convertible in the parking lot, as I know that will be something they cling onto.

I have replaced all 4 shocks with Bilstein B4's just a couple years ago, and it helped, but the ride can still be pretty stiff. I know that the 986 is a sports car, not a luxury GT cruiser, so I understand there are limitations to what I can do to improve the ride quality, but I'm hoping there is something that can be done to make the commute a bit more bearable.

Thanks!

Just removed these and they have about 40k (give or take) on them. 441+ RR shocks. Swift springs with helper springs. Not 100% sure on rates. I'll see if I can find a part number on the springs. Feal top mounts. 30ish clicks of adjustability for rebound. One pair of remote adjustment knob/cables. Might could use new bump stops? Fine condition, just stiffer than I want to daily. Good track setup. They are about $3k new. Make offer. Located in Atlanta.