Just purchased an 04 boxster s . Having an issue finding out what I need to put a double din unit in. Is there a unit that works well with the Bose speakers ?

I am looking to purchase a diagnostic scanning tool for my 03 Boxster S and would appreciate recommendations. I would like to keep the price around $300 USD. I have been leaning towards iCarsoft and Topdon. I do like the idea of being able to use it on my other 2 vehicles (25 Subaru Forrester & 19 Mini Cooper). Lifetime updates and Bluetooth dongle appreciated. Thanks for your advice and suggestions.

Does anyone know about upgrading the audio system using what’s called the big three? It consists of an upgrade to the battery, the alternator, and electrical wiring (larger ground and positive cables) …
Couldn’t find through searching the forum audio upgrade section.
I would appreciate any help that is provided

I know. Posting a WTB is just asking for scams.

But looking to change my stock 2000 S to M030. So looking for springs and sway bars. Dampers too. But thinking I might buy new Konis.

This morning when I tried to move my 2000 Boxster S I was unable to put it any gear except reverse. The lever felt blocked in neutral. I put the car on my Quckjacks and had a look underneath, nothing seemed amiss. I got in the car and was able to shift into all gears with no problem!? Came back 30 minutes later and again couldn't select any gears but reverse. After fiddling a bit all the gears came back again.
I am assuming I will have to take the console off to troubleshoot and I have started to think about replacing the shifter... maybe with the 987 version. Presumably I need the 987 6 speed shifter.

My headlight switch is hard to turn to the parking light position and I'm not sure if it is working correctly. It is not obvious if it is operating correctly because my 2000 base was imported from the US and Canadianized, which may or may not have included modifying the lighting system for Canadian regulations.
So I have looked at prices, part number 996-613-535-00 or 996-613-535-01. The Porsche part from Pelican is $225.75US, the URO part is $127.87US. For $175.99US Summit offer the Standard Motor Parts (SMP) version, the same is available from Rockauto at $208.69CDN ($150.78US this morning). On ebay the SMP version is $229.63. The part is also available on Amazon.ca with prices from $23.16 to $93.40CDN ($17 to 67US), all with the same photo. Switches with a slightly different photo are in the range of $88 to $163CDN ($64 to $118US).
And then... anything imported from the US is hit by the new tarifs...
I think ii is likely that all of the switches on Amazon come from the same manufacturer. SMP I read is a catch all for parts from various manufacturers. Where does URO source their parts, the same place as the Amazon sellers?
All that to end up asking if anyone here has experience with the non-Porsche parts.
I will start by taking the switch out and trying to lubricate it...

So here is the thing. Over the last years when I worked on the car I always found the ride height front / rear to be a bit out of balance. Significant gap between wheel and arch on the rear, close together on the front.

The last week I found it to be balance quite nicely and first thought it had settled in nicely (pretty much all new suspension around). Quite even gaps front and rear.

Then I suddenly realised I am now looking at the other side of the car (parked under the carport instead of garage view). I measured the gap and checked left vs right.

Front left less than half an inch (10mm) higher than front right (guess this is reasonable)
Rear left about an inch lower than rear right (25mm). This I do not think is reasonable.

So obviously that is a huge difference front to rear, 35mm more on one side compared to the other.

I know the ride height measurements are taken under the car. Remember I found a bit of difference, but nothing dramatic. But surely this is measured more inwards than the gaps on the sides. Are there any other reference points to compare to check whether the car is ok?

From all the work I found the car has taken a hit, but did not find anything bend or folded in. The U-shaped suspension holders at the rear are different left to right (one has been replaced by newer model, but I assume they should be equally sized in mounting points). Newly mounted suspension parts (including springs and struts) should be in correctly, no difference in spacers and springs from the same batch (at least on each axle).

I've damaged my rear left wheel carrier while pressing out the bearing. The gouges go right through the rim that stops the new bearing from being pushed out of the wheel carrier. The side walIs of the carrier are not damaged where the new bearing would be pressed into. Is the wheel carrier still safe to use or should it be replaced? 2001 Boxster S

Attached Images

 

Hello, all. I've got a base 2003 986, and am trying to get to the bottom of a recurring set of P0491 & P0492 codes.

Trying to exercise the system with the Durametric and I see the following behavior - not sure if it's problematic, or a 'works as designed' kinda thing, and hoping that someone else has tried the same thing.

First I turn on the secondary air injection pump (engine off), and it starts and runs just fine. By pulling off the hose from the outlet of the pump and listening to the change in sound, it's apparent that the shut-ff valve is not open, confirmed as there is clearly no air coming out of the exhaust.

Next, if I open the switch-over valve, with the Durametric, what happens is that the pump then immediately shuts off. If I cycle the switch (start & stop) with the pump off, I do hear a click, so I have to assume that something is happening.

Any thoughts as to what's going on are certainly welcome!

A quick video snip showing what I'm seeing is at the link below.

https://youtu.be/GgAKo7_3sxQ

Best regards,

My 1999 Tiptronic Porsche Boxster feels like it is slipping, accompanied by a loud/hard noise when accelerating quickly. However, it drives normally if I maintain a steady speed.

I ran a Durametric scan and got the following fault code:

Tiptronic Transmission G40: P0732 – Gear Selection Monitor, 2nd Gear

Based on my research, it appears that the Transmission Control Module (TCM) has detected a mismatch between the engine/input speed and output speed while the transmission is attempting to engage or operate in 2nd gear.

I’m planning to go through the checklist below and hopefully avoid having to replace or rebuild the transmission. In the meantime, I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who has experienced a similar issue with a 986 Boxster Tiptronic. If so, what was the root cause, and what was the eventual solution?

I did change the transmission fluid about a year ago and filled it at the correct operating temperature, but I’m going to recheck the fluid level to make sure it isn’t low.
Durametric does not have real time solenoid Actuations option for the transmissions like the engine module.

Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

... You make a clock sculpture for the living room...





The piston is from the 3.2L engine (2000 Boxster S) that I bought last fall and that I am now parting out. The other 5 pistons are for sale.

Hello all! Recently joined the club with an '03 986 S. I had about a 15-year hiatus in my P-car ownership from my previous 993. Bought and sold before the air cooled bubble started...

Happy to be back in the game. I will have had the Boxster for 3 weeks as of this Saturday and we are still getting acquainted with each other. Previous owner was/is amazing. IMS/RMS/Clutch all done within the last 10k miles, has a newer top installed, hardtop included, aftermarket head unit/backup camera, belts, tensioners done and just generally well maintained. I'm officially the 3rd owner. The color is what caught my eye, the owner is what I bought.

Initial mods will focus on exhaust and interior refreshing.

A pic from the Blue Ridge Parkway.



Apologies for the duplicate posts…

On a base 99. No other damage to the outer race or balls or anything. Might be older damage that has not progressed? Joint started throwing a little grease so I thought I was just replacing the boot. Maybe it is new damage because the grease got a little low? Symptoms? Not really, I was just fixing the boot.

2003, 2.7, 5 speed, 118k miles.


So here is the story.
Per the previous owner, water pump was replaced about 5 years ago, 10k miles ago.
Coolant needed to be added a few times as the system burped here and there. That was shortly after I got the car, that is 5 years ago.

No problems with coolant whatsoever. A few times on the autocross, never had overheated even in ambient at 25 C or more.
Fans would kick in and do the job.

Fast forward to yesterday.
I drove about 70-80 miles roundtrip. Going there. No problem. AC was on, car was fine.
On the way back, same thing. It was warmer, no AC, as roof was down. Car was OK. No sign of cooling issues.
Ambient about 22 C.
I stopped to drop off my work friend and I parked on his driveway.
The driveway points up. Not super steep, but significant.
I left the car running. At some point I heard the fans to kick in. Normal, right? I thought I sniffed something sweet, like coolant, but everything seemed normal. I pulled out and I see a puddle.

I see no leaks in front or back. It was all from the reservoir. Over the cap.
It was not a lot.
The level was low, but the light was not flashing. Temp was 190 F.

I got back home - short drive, like 3 miles.
Light started flashing. I gently added coolant and water (I have concentrate - so half water, half coolant). It took about 1.5 liter. Initially did not take much, but then when I opened the vent valve, it burped more.
Fans would kick in. All seemed OK. Some little air here and there.

I have not checked today (did not drive), but the coolant went down a little more, of course. No leaks.


So, it begs a question - is the water pump "weak" and it does not like pumping "uphill"?
Or it is not the best water pump? I am not sure what was put in there.

Or maybe it is normal?

The coolant lines are long and two radiators on the front car. I get it make take a little time.

Oh, the radiators were hot. Circulation is there. Just not sure if "enough".

Or maybe someone else has some other idea.
The car was parked for several days. I do not drive it so often anymore.

Need a complete vanity mirror with the lights for my visor.

Cover cracked at the hinge.

Either with the airbag warning or without, but would prefer without.

Thanks!