I replaced the 4 channel amp in the frunk of my base 01 986 with the 6 channel amp. Now I need to run new wires from the amp to the new speakers I installed in the rear storage box. Anyone have a guide? Not sure if it matters but I replaced the factory radio with a Sony touchscreen. I used a converter harness to connect Sony harness to Porsche harness. Thanks!

At present I route the frunk release cable through the hole for the tow hook so I can easily reach it just under the plastic cover if I need to open the frunk when the battery is dead. I secure the loose end of the release cable with safety wire so it doesn't flop around and get hard to reach when I need it. If I put a front license plate bracket into that tow hook hole I will need to find a new routing for the frunk cable release. Any suggestions?

The light behind the speedo display is dim in my 2004 Boxster SE, so I will pull the instrument cluster to change what may be a non-functional bulb. While I am in there I should replace all the other easily replaced bulbs. Here is my shopping list. Am I wrong about any of these? ...

12v 3w: 999-631-304-90 / analog gauges (4 needed)
12v 1.5w: 999-631-303-90 / digital display (3 needed)
12v 1.2w: 999-631-302-90 / idiot lights (unknown if these can even be replaced)

As you can see, I need to know how many 1.2W bulbs I'm going to need for the idiot lights. Or let me know that these cannot be easily replaced and I will be content to leave them alone since they all seem to be working just fine.

I just changed the secondary shut off and control valves on my 1998. A few notes that might be helpful not covered in videos. I went through the front firewall to do this.
Remove the passenger seat and panel.
Removing the generator required the idler pulley bolt to be completely removed. The generator would not rotate up around the lower bolt. Only the generator cable needed to be detached at the top junction box, the rear cable is the generator.
A pair of serrated tooth Channel locks are needed to pinch open the hose clamps. A 10" long nose pliers can be used but more difficult to keep on the tabs.
Pull the control valve off the hose from the check valve then the pump hose.
The hose on the check valve has to be removed before the check valve can be unscrewed.
The connectors for the knock sensor and electric changeover valve needed to be removed for better access. They have a tab at the wire end that has to be depressed.
To break the check valve free I made a 27mm crows foot from 1/4" aluminum plate. The arm is about 2". The leg on the forward side had to be narrow to clear the electric valve, about 3/8".
Using a long 3/8" socket adapter I could hit on the crows foot to break the valve free. Once loose it turned off by hand.
I used PTFE tape on the valve threads.
The Channel lock pliers was used on the upper pipe to tighten the new valve. If tightening with a crows foot, be careful not to break the electric valve which limits the swing.
WD-40 in the hoses made them slide easily onto the valves. The hose clamps needed to be in their final position on the hose before sliding the hose on.
The generator pulley bolt needed to go in first. Leave both bolts slightly loose until the belt is put back on.
I put the belt on all the pulleys except the idler to the left and below the tensioner pulley. A 24mm box wrench pointed toward the driver's side can be pulled up and the belt slipped over the final idler.

I spent a lot of time searching for whp and torque data that objectively isolates the impact of an ECU flash on a 2.7L 986 Boxster. I wanted the same car, same dyno, similar ambient conditions with the only variable being the flash. Finding a clean independently verified AB comparison has proven impossible so I decided earlier this year to do my own. I used an off the shelf 93 octane flash from a popular tuner. It's the same dynojet dyno and operator, similar ambient conditions. The only mod present in both tests is racing headers with open exhaust. Everything else is stock and there are no changes to the car between tests except the flash. Ignore the vertical line which is a slider that, of course, doesn't work in the post.

In the overlay baseline is red and flashed blue. Note that the dip just before 5K rpm is the variocam.

Just purchased an 04 boxster s . Having an issue finding out what I need to put a double din unit in. Is there a unit that works well with the Bose speakers ?

I am looking to purchase a diagnostic scanning tool for my 03 Boxster S and would appreciate recommendations. I would like to keep the price around $300 USD. I have been leaning towards iCarsoft and Topdon. I do like the idea of being able to use it on my other 2 vehicles (25 Subaru Forrester & 19 Mini Cooper). Lifetime updates and Bluetooth dongle appreciated. Thanks for your advice and suggestions.

Does anyone know about upgrading the audio system using what’s called the big three? It consists of an upgrade to the battery, the alternator, and electrical wiring (larger ground and positive cables) …
Couldn’t find through searching the forum audio upgrade section.
I would appreciate any help that is provided

My headlight switch is hard to turn to the parking light position and I'm not sure if it is working correctly. It is not obvious if it is operating correctly because my 2000 base was imported from the US and Canadianized, which may or may not have included modifying the lighting system for Canadian regulations.
So I have looked at prices, part number 996-613-535-00 or 996-613-535-01. The Porsche part from Pelican is $225.75US, the URO part is $127.87US. For $175.99US Summit offer the Standard Motor Parts (SMP) version, the same is available from Rockauto at $208.69CDN ($150.78US this morning). On ebay the SMP version is $229.63. The part is also available on Amazon.ca with prices from $23.16 to $93.40CDN ($17 to 67US), all with the same photo. Switches with a slightly different photo are in the range of $88 to $163CDN ($64 to $118US).
And then... anything imported from the US is hit by the new tarifs...
I think ii is likely that all of the switches on Amazon come from the same manufacturer. SMP I read is a catch all for parts from various manufacturers. Where does URO source their parts, the same place as the Amazon sellers?
All that to end up asking if anyone here has experience with the non-Porsche parts.
I will start by taking the switch out and trying to lubricate it...

So here is the thing. Over the last years when I worked on the car I always found the ride height front / rear to be a bit out of balance. Significant gap between wheel and arch on the rear, close together on the front.

The last week I found it to be balance quite nicely and first thought it had settled in nicely (pretty much all new suspension around). Quite even gaps front and rear.

Then I suddenly realised I am now looking at the other side of the car (parked under the carport instead of garage view). I measured the gap and checked left vs right.

Front left less than half an inch (10mm) higher than front right (guess this is reasonable)
Rear left about an inch lower than rear right (25mm). This I do not think is reasonable.

So obviously that is a huge difference front to rear, 35mm more on one side compared to the other.

I know the ride height measurements are taken under the car. Remember I found a bit of difference, but nothing dramatic. But surely this is measured more inwards than the gaps on the sides. Are there any other reference points to compare to check whether the car is ok?

From all the work I found the car has taken a hit, but did not find anything bend or folded in. The U-shaped suspension holders at the rear are different left to right (one has been replaced by newer model, but I assume they should be equally sized in mounting points). Newly mounted suspension parts (including springs and struts) should be in correctly, no difference in spacers and springs from the same batch (at least on each axle).

I've damaged my rear left wheel carrier while pressing out the bearing. The gouges go right through the rim that stops the new bearing from being pushed out of the wheel carrier. The side walIs of the carrier are not damaged where the new bearing would be pressed into. Is the wheel carrier still safe to use or should it be replaced? 2001 Boxster S

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