8mm hex socket stuck
While changing the oil my 8 mm hex socket got stuck on the oil drain plug; tried wd40 but will not come out; removed the socket but the hex part remains in drain plug. How do I remove the hex from the drain plug
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Well Crap.... My first recommendation is a new plug, the old one may be in the process of rounding off internally, could make removal in the future questionable. But to see if I can help, I think you have a 2 piece hex bit and the machined hex has pulled out of the socket. This happened because while removing/tightening the plug, the hex started rotating and now has a friction bite on the plug. First try torqueing the plug correctly, then gently attempt to loosen the plug. Hopefully you will break the friction bite before the plug breaks free. Good Luck.
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Use a pair of channelLocks on the outside of the plug and then the socket on the hex part and twist counterclockwise.
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Jay Sorry but I disagree. Don't put any tools on that flange yet as that is the sealing surface. Any bite marks or distortion of that surface can result in leaks or breakage.
The next thing I'd do is put the hex socket together, then using an 6" ratchet extention while loosening gently rock the extension back and forth. Edit: I'm also assuming this is Ciao's first oil change, as this is really a common occurrence using a hardened bit in that soft aluminum. |
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BTW Yes, this is my first oil change. I didn't expect this to take me 2 hours. The drain plug is in but there's the hex sticking out from under the pan and drain plug; I'll try the 6" ratchet and gently rock the extension back and forth. Why is this a common occurrence? And how can it be avoided? Cheers! |
It's common because the plug is aluminum and the bit is steel, then people use a ratchet to tighten it instead of a torque wrench calibrated to the proper torque. ;)
Avoid it by buying a new drain plug for next time and use a torque wrench (the required torque is very little - 37 ft/lbs for stock plug). |
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Cheers! |
Not much you can do. It's the nature of the beast (aluminum vs steel). Mine gets "stuck" every time. A light tap CCW frees it without loosening the plug.
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Ciao As PW said the main issue is the hardened tool steel in the soft aluminum plug. The aluminum is possibly softer than frozen butter. So make sure you have a good quality hex socket and make sure that the socket is centered well in the plug before applying torque. Oh and use a new crush ring every time.
Now I am going to depart from the specs.... IMO I see no reason to torque that plug to 37 lb/ft. Even though that is spec. Consider that the LN plug is only torqued to 19 lb/ft. The plug only has to be tightened enough to not leak or back out. So I see no reason to go beyond ~25 lb/ft. Aluminum does not go plastic and stretch like steel does, Once yield torque is attained in aluminum it simply yields. Also now might be a good time to Upgade to a LN mag plug. Initially I thought that LN limited torque to keep that way too thin flange from breaking off. Then I came to realize that maybe they were smart and designed the flange to break off BEFORE the pan was damaged!! Genius. Plug is cheap, Pan not so much. As a note I only tighten my plug to 15 lb/ft. It has never leaked yet. |
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Cheers! |
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Are all 8mm hex to 1/2" drive tools created equal?
Can anyone suggest a good one for Boxster oil changes? I think the length of the 8mm male side is important isn't it? Got a link to a good one? Thx! |
Use 8mm hex with a 1/4" drive?
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