Complete Audio Upgrade (plus adding a garage door opener)
 

So... I'm now going through the process of upgrading the ENTIRE sound system. I've upgraded the front speakers to Polk db401, I added 4 db350 s to the rear box. I'm changing the door "sub-woofers" with some Kicker CVT65 units. I'm also adding a JVC Nav system (kw-nt800hdt) and a JVC amp in the frunk.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1403147378.jpg
I think this will be the hardest part as I've elected to modify the existing box. This is my progress on that so far.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1403147501.jpg
This is the chaos so far.

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Here is the navi unit. I don't know what the camera was focusing on.

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This is the Amp install. I'm quite impressed with the install if I do say so myself.


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Here you can see the 2 Polk speakers peaking out from the speaker material.


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The climate control relocated without a problem.

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This is where I got the switched power from. It's phone accessory harness behind the batwing.

I hope to have everything done by the weekend. Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks.

Tony

Nice work so far, is the rear speaker your own doing or one of the kits ??

I want to add Nav to my 01S so I will be following this thread

I just replaced my dash speakers and will be upgrading the head unit and adding rear speakers. I am making a template for mounting the rear speakers soon

I'll share the template when I get it done

The rear speakers were not a kit. I made a cardboard temlate and transferred it to a piece of ABS plastic utilizing all 3 cubbie mounts. Then I stretched some speaker material over the original openings that pop out when you take the cubbie out. I think it looks pretty factory. We'll see how long it lasts.

Keep in mind that the wiring diagram is different for the CDR-23 in the 03-04 models. Here is the diagram for the CDR-23:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1402950409.jpg

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll be happy to help.

Tony

I have the same kickers in the doors. I LOVE them. I used the last generation small sized MTX 4x75watt amp for the dash and rear speakers, and the same line 1x500watt for both doors (mono because it is bass only). I would install the same setup if it cost twice as much. Unfortunately, MTX discontinued that line of amps. They were perfect for the 986 as they both mounted on the stock amp bracket and fit behind the spare tire without issue.

I'm using a JVC 5 channel amp that has a SW as it's 5th channel. It's perfect for me as it's 2ohm stable. Plus, I got it cheap. We'll see how it comes out. Did you use the original door baffles, or are you using them free air? If you're using the baffles, do you have pictures of how you modified them?

I made some progress last night. I finally tamed the wires in the dash and got it buttoned up.

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This is what it looked like.


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This is another angle.

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Here the dash is back together. notice the targa roof switch that is now connected to a Homelink modual. This allows me to open my garage door (not that my wife lets me park there).

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Here's another angle of the JVC Navi system.

Everything works so far. With any luck, I'll be done this weekend.

Tony

I made replacement baffles and ran them free air.

If I wasn't parting with my car in a few years' time for a 991S, I'd sooooo be doing this project the same way you did it!

I have to force myself not to spend another dime on this car for the next 36 months and bank some cash for my next CPO Porsche.

so total install time? 2 days? Looks great.. I have an 03 box with non bose... did you hook up a back up camera?

Well... Taking my sweet ass time (hemming and hawing over everything), and working and spending time with the family... 5 days. If I did it straight through, I could probably have it done over a weekend. I'm contemplating the camera. I've already bought it, but I don't know if I want to drill a hole in the bumper. I did hook up the reverse signal just in case I decide to install it.

Nice job. Check this thread for some tips on installing the back up camera. With the brand of camera I bought it was not necessary to drill any holes:

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/51283-does-anyone-know-vss-wire-02-bose.html

By the way, I noticed that you put your garage door opener switch in the bottom position. I did that when I installed mine. However, I eventually moved it to the top position. It is easier to find it if you are in a hurry.

What about the wireless cameras ? , all you need is a V+ wire from one of rhe backup lights

Could you identify which home link module you used? TIA

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/153-yet-another-way-to-add-a-homelink-device/

Here's a link to the instructions I used. I believe you will need to be a contributing member to Renntech to read them.

The author based his instructions on using a module from a "late model" GM vehicle. He bought one from a 2005 Trailblazer on eBay. I think mine was from one of GM's larger SUV's, but I don't remember exactly which one.

The GM part number on unit used on Renntech is 15015905.

I used a home link from a Kia, but it was almost exactly like the one in the instructions listed above. I think most of them are exactly the same.

loving the courage to diy and the innovation on this forum....true to Porsche heritage

I was absolutely right on this one. The speaker baffle mod is the hardest part of this project. Because they are made of polypropylene, no glue works on them. The only way to get the pieces to stick together is to plastic weld them. What a pain. Here are some picture of the speaker baffle mod. The right hand side box and sub are in the car. Now I just have to finish the left.

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This is the right hand baffle finished next to the left unfinished. As you can see, the box needed to be highly modified to fit the sub in the door.


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This what the welds on the back side of the box look like.


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This is what the finished box looks like. One more side and I get my car back.

Tony

Tony

Thanks for the link to Renntech

The physical installation of all the parts are done. But, now I have alternator whine. Improper ground is the most common source. Any other ideas?

Shielded cables
 

You might want to get some shielded wire, or (and ) tie a .01 mfd capacitor to one side of your power wire, also you can tie a 1000mfs capacitor to act as a filter...these are old techniques to try...but some still work. Try the grounds first

I noticed that you are using the telephone power connector as the source of your switched power. I used that connector as a power source to charge an iPod when I had a CDR-220 stock head unit. I also had an alternator whine, but only when I played music from the iPod.

When I wired my Pioneer deck, I used the power sources that were designed for the stock head unit and I don't have a whine with any sound source.

I cannot be sure that the problem is coming from the phone connector, but I would try a different source for switched power as the first step. If you need the information for the stock head unit wiring, let me know and I will scan and post it.

Good luck.

The problem there is that the CDR-23 (in the 03-04 models) does not have a switched power source coming into the original HU. It only has constant power. I think the stereo was activated/deactivated via the MOST bus. Is there another source in the 04 model that I can easily tap?

Tony

Relay
 

A relay on the curcuit

That is a good idea. I'd like to tap a circuit that is live when the key is in the ignition. Any idea which one that is?

Tony

http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/52768-cdr-23-wiring-diagram.html
Nimbus117 suggested accessing fuse A6 on the fuse block.

Good luck and I hope that eliminates the alternator noise.

I haven't solved the whine yet, but I have to say, I love the system. It sounds fantastic. It is everything that I hoped it would be. The sound stage is lifted and moved back to where the occupants sit. The sub-woofers sound great. They are not the big boomy type that you hear going down the road. They are just not big enough to do that. But they do deliver smooth tight bass. I think the Polk Audio speakers in the dash and rear and the subs compliment each other very nicely. The head unit works great. There are a few gripes that I have with it, like the way you access the menus and the fact that I'm not getting any PTY song info on non HD channels. Other than that, I love everything about the components I've chosen.

Tony

Can you explain this?

Thanks

THe alternator whine you hear is AC voltage making it's way into your amplifier via the +12V connection. The old method we used was to try 1 or any combination of three things.

First and foremost make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight, a good colection

Second tie a .47 capacitor from the +12V lead to ground. Theory is a capacitor passes AC voltage but blocks DC...the AC whine will be shorted to ground and reduced greatly

Third get a capacitor , Electrolytic rated above 30V and a value of 2000 to 10,000 Micro Farad (Mfd) and tie this to the AC line to filter out the spikes causing the whine.

Shielded wire, like Coax. Use the center conductor as your +12V source and tie it directly to the +12V of the battery, ground the shield so spurious RF cannot get into your +12V supply

There are further methods of using a inductor (choke) and other things.

For more info and ideas read this thread

Noise Suppression Guide - Noise Suppression Guide

How To - Car Stereo - In Pursuit of a Noise-Free System: The Ten Commandments of Noise Prevention

Alternator Whine in Car Audio

Car Audio Noise Troubleshooting

Hit the nail on the head ;)

All alternator wine is caused by AC. Easy fix with a cap and/or checking grounds.

Ok. The whine is coming from the head unit. the amp is fine, the rca cables from the HU to the amp are fine. I grounded it to the chassis at the bottom of the center stack and I'm still getting the whine. the only ground that I can't control is the antenna. the system works even with the brown wire ground disconnected because the antenna grounds the system. But even with the antenna disconnected and the system grounded via the chassis ground I still have the whine. The last thing to try is a direct power from the battery. I can't seem to isolate the source.
uhg!

Tony

Hello all.

I'm going to have some pictures of what I did with the rear speakers and the connector I used as a quick connect for the rear box. cool looking anyways.

I've tried a few things to solve the whine issue. Pdwight, can you draw me a diagram of what you're talking about?
#1 battery connections are all tight.
#2 "Second tie a .47 capacitor from the +12V lead to ground." is that a mfd, or ufd cap?
#3 " 2000 to 10,000 Micro Farad cap" is this tied directly in line with the power line.

do you have a link to where I can see these parts?

Thanks.

Tony

Just want to say this is an epic post. It's like a semester of college wrapped up into a quarter page on the internet. Wow. Thanks.