BUMP as this subject seems to be getting some interest again

It has been a year since I installed this and NO problems at all
There was an initial problem with the code, and Polaris re posted the correct code and all was well

I'm new to the forum and I may take this project on, but it's not at the top of the list. I'll order up a couple of nano boards and set them aside for a rainy day. Great writeup!

One of the best if not the best mod I've done

I'm about to install a Pioneer double-din stereo that requires a double-pulse trigger to bypass the parking break lockout for changing audio settings (or playing DVDs while moving, which I don't care about). There is a bypass device available for around $15, but I figured I'd just add it to the AutoTop DIY. Anybody else interested?

In particular, this would apply to at least the Pioneer SPH-DA120 and the AVH-4100NEX and AVH-4200NEX models.

Glad to see you are back on the forum

I am also looking at going to a double din unit, so yes, I would be interested in the updated code, etc

Yeah, I've not been spending very much time on the forum.

I've been busy driving my Boxster and went back to school to get a BS in information systems while also working full time still.

I have a AVH-4000NEX and used the ebay bypass.

Are you still building these up for $50? I would love one!

John

I'll also get around to building your Auto-top Arduino eventually, especially now that I have a glass rear window top,
I also have a double din touch screen (Cheap Chinese version) but what I need is
the reversing wire to go to ground to enable the backup camera.

Is any of the auto-top interfacing/logic able to provide a reverse signal?

If not I may need a microswitch or something on the gear shift linkages
or a relay on a backup taillight to trigger it.

Any ideas.

Hey jb92563 - for reverse there's a black wire with blue stripe at the control box under the seat, have a look at the images here : http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/51283-does-anyone-know-vss-wire-02-bose.html

Thanks OldSkool, I will definately try to locate that wire for the reversing cam.

I've been thinking about possible additions to this, I'm good at the code side but rubbish at the electronics, so wondering if someone with more knowledge could chime in on my possibly stupid ideas/questions below...

1) The nano has a VIN that accepts +12v, any reason we can't just use that and skip the Voltage Regulator?

2) The nano has optional built in pullups on the inputs, any reason we can't use them to wire the switch side to GND (instead of +5v) and go directly to pins 8 & 9 without the need for the resistors? (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/DigitalInputPullup)

3) There's a speedometer input wire to the radio (GR/PK), does anyone know what kind of output this provides? I'm assuming if we can figure it out, it could it be used to provide an input that locks the auto open over a certain speed?

1) Your right, it has its own built in regulator on the 12v IN and a 5v out pin if we need 5v for something.

3) Thats a great idea but no idea on the signal in that wire, but surely it can be handled once we figure it out.

Just a quick one guys. I've just done this and it's a success, very happy. But sometimes it operates VERY slowly, as if you're doing it while the engine isn't running. Any ideas?

Thanks!

could be your battery

They are electric motors, so if the voltage was lower, they would be slower

You want the voltage regulator to protect the nano. While a car is a nominal 12v, in reality it can get higher. Sure the nano can probably handle a few more volts than 12, but for a buck or 2, why take the chance

Thanks. Seems to be absolutely fine, might have been something to do with me constantly testing it in a short space of time. It's perfect now :)

Has anyone done this recently? I have been waiting for a RoboTop or a ComfortTop to become available and they are not so I am ready to pull out my soldering iron and get to work.

I would think that the basic Arduino will have changed a few times over the past 2 years.

Arduino is still the same as it ever was, so no problem there. Just make sure you get one of the Atmel ATMega 328 based boards.

Can you confirm if this works?

Uno R3 ATMEGA328P CH340 Micro USB Board for Compatible Arduino | eBay

Also, what gauge wire did you use?

I am a SW guy, not a HW guy but I have done HW projects.

Thanks, John

The CH430 part of of the arduino means its a clone of the original, only difference is that you will need the CH430 driver on your PC in order to upload the software.

Otherwise its identical to an arduino and should work just fine.

Hey guys, I need some help with this, I've built this twice now and I just can't get it to work. The code and electronics in theory are working fine, I've breadboarded it all up with a couple of led's to simulate the top motor and can turn them on and off with the buttons, but when I get it in the car... nothing.

If I put a multimeter between the regular harness and switch, when I press the button I see 12v @ ~70ma when the top's moving, which drops to ~10ma when the top stops. But when I do it between the arduino and the harness I see 12v @ ~30ma. I'm guessing this is the reason it doesn't work, not pushing enough power through to activate the motor, but I don't know why?

I've built it twice now, thinking I must have screwed up the first one, but the second has exactly the same result :/

The only difference I can see in my build is I'm using a nano, which has no +/- and only 2 GND. So the VR goes to the VIN and one GND, leaving one free GND which I connect to from the harness, and which both switches (via the 10k resistors) and both transistors (via the collector pins) are wired to. Is this wrong?

I'm just a simple software guy, so all these wires and pins confuse me. Any help appreciated!

Thanks!

I ordered the Arduino Nano board for $5.88 shipped. ATMEGA328 Compatible Nano V3 Improved Version Board with USB Cable for Arduino | eBay

I have put all of the components in a cart on Mouser and am now trying to get the connectors.

Does anyone know the specifics of these automotive crimp-on connectors so that they fit between the harness and the switch?

Thanks, John

they are just regular 1/4" push on terminals
Gardner Bender 16-14 AWG 0.250 in. Disconnect F TAB (75-Pack)-75-143F - The Home Depot
I used an insulated version
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-4-in-Blue-Fully-Insulated-Wire-Disconnects-15-Pack-15-153F/202521914

Thanks! I ordered the components and will go to HD to get the connectors! Can't wait to get this project rolling!

John

Make sure you get the correct ones for the wire gauge you are using.
IIRC, I used red ones. The package tells you what gauge wire will fit

What gauge wire should I be using?

John

I used 16 gauge, so I guess I used blue terminals

Personally I'd buy a One just to be absolutely sure that everything is the same as the build. I did and it works as I didn't want to get anything wrong. Originally I bought a cheap ebay rip-off and it didn't work, then I bit the bullet and bought a proper Arduino One for £20 and it worked first time :)

Thanks @geraintthomas, gonna hang on and see if @jpc763 has any luck with his nano first, hopefully he reports back...

I will post when I complete the project.

OK. I am starting the project and have a few questions. I was a code guy back in the day but have done some electronics. I am using a breadboard to wire it up before I solder everything together.

Here is a picture of my nano. I am trying to figure out how to match the pinouts from Polaris's Arduino. Mine is more like JayG.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1468721536.jpg

I assume that the "-" on the end is simply ground and will solder to the other ground wires. The "+" is a question as I have both 5v, 3.3v and pow pins. So, which do I connect the power regulator to?

The regulator connects to +5v

Does anyone have the shcematic for the arduino nano? It is hard to find out wich is the pin out number on the arduino nano it is very different then the schematic that polaris did.
Thanks guys!

Everything is on the digital pins, and it should correspond to the same pin-out numbers even if they are in a different order.

Alternatively, all the pinouts are set up through constants, so you can change the pinouts the code uses by changing the constants at the top of the code before compiling and uploading to your arduino.

I have made this successfully with both the arduino one (my original version) and eBay Chinese nanos without issue, so it should be possible.

Hello Polaris,

Coming late to the AutoTop party.
The link to the arduino code is broken in your original post.
Where can I find the code?

Thank you in advance.

@mikehkang - you can grab it from my github if you need, this first commit is just an import of @Polaris's original code .... https://raw.githubusercontent.com/oldskool73/autotop986/4080d0e94c0b5fdb2546379d614b5992477a9e4d/autotop986.ino

Thank you oldskool73!!

P. S. Do you also know where I can get the circuit diagram? Thank you in advance.

Hi Guys.

If anyone has the schematic I would be most grateful.
Thanks

Here is the Schematic
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1489447208.jpg

Thanks, I will build it tomorrow.