Yep I want one too, fedup to constantly look for the freeway IRcard in that compartment. Cards here are dark gray color and it makes it very hard to pin point its location in the (lightless) cubby. My windows phone is also blk... not always easy to spot. Distractions... looking for stuff in that cubby all the time :/

Those lights could avoid a potential road rash ;) Happy to send back my perfectly good condition cubby to you if you do core exchg

I am in for one too, thanks! I don't have a cubby in mine though to exchange unfortunately.

The LEDs will be cool white, unless otherwise requested (can be any color). ;)
I should have the parts in by this weekend, so hope to have the first set ready early next week.
The core charge will be what I pay for the bins, which is still in question, but it looks like it will be $25 for the lower bin and $50 for the upper bin.
$25 each for parts and labor.

I'd also be willing to retrofit your current bins if you want to avoid the core charge and don't mind shipping them to me.

Amit: PM or email me for details. I can work with you on price since you won't have a core ;)

I'm starting these tomorrow, so please PM me any special color requests. ;)

Might some lower power IR tx and rx LEDs be a better solution to the more-power-dissipated-while-off-than-on problem?

I have the first set with cool white LEDs ready. PM me if interested. If not, I'll list them in the classifieds. ;)

Each has a little more than 24" of wire.

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...C45A6A948A.jpg

Upper bin is gone, lower still available.

Each has 4 LEDs for optimal light distribution; 3 up top and 1 near the back, aimed forward.

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...8E9FEA8136.jpg

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...6D8A05EDD1.jpg

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...27B89E9A59.jpg

Both are gone.
I'll get another set made as soon as I get some more cores ;)

Even though I don't have a cubby in my dash right now, I am still tempted to get one of these!

I have one more for the lower slot available, for now, if anyone is interested.

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...780B239FB1.jpg

I tried a couple of times. Seems soldering is not a current skill of mine. I'd be willing to send you mine to fix up, no core needed.

PM sent...

Sorry, Was traveling. I'll put it in the mail shortly.

I decided to change this up a bit after years of enjoyment. With the addition of a diode and an electrolytic capacitor, the LEDs now fade in and out instead of immediately turning on/off.

C1 is any 25V electrolytic capacitor between the values off 220uF and 470uF. The higher the value, the longer the fade in and out. I actually found 470uF to be bit much at almost 2 seconds, so recommend 220-330.
I'll post a video soon. ;)

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1526978089.jpg

Are you still fabricating these? I'd like to send you my cubby and get this over with. ;) Coolest mod yet.

Yessir ;)

Email me at particlewave1@gmail.com for details.

Done. Thank you.

Revised detector circuit for LED fade out only (emitter circuit from page one remains the same):

Q1 - S9014 NPN transistor
Q2 - Phototransistor (IR Detector from original circuit)
D1-D4 - LEDs with 120 degree illumination angle

Everything else should be in the picture.
When the detector is blocked, the transistor activates, illuminating the the LEDs and charging C1. When detector is unblocked, transistor shuts off and Cl discharges through R2. Fade out time can be adjusted by changing the value of R2.
R3 needs to be calculated for the LEDs you use.
Video shows circuit exactly as shown in the schematic.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2GGZSZFYRH8

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1528315505.jpg

Finally installed the mod this past weekend.

I tapped into a switched hot using an add-a-circuit plugging into the left side parking light fusebox slot.

A ground I located behind the lower center dash... near directly behind the cubby itself. I removed the ~V-shaped carpet piece near the gas pedal and there it was.

I attempted about 10 times to tap into the cigarette lighter hot wire. Sought assistance and a rocket scientist, ;), advised me that the dash and console lights are 6V.

Works as advertised. Could charge double the fabrication and it'd still be worth it.

:cheers:

I experienced doing the small Led's on my Sailboat electrical panel using the resistors along with a green and red Led which showed on and off positions for a host of switches. Looked great....I might do my storage with a few red Led's . White light has a tendency to somewhat blind you at night.

You can control the intensity of the lights with the LED resistor. As shown in the schematics, they are not too bright...just right. ;)

Hi paticlewave,

nice idea, but all your interior lights have the wrong color. :D It has to be orange. :D ;)

Now for to be a little more construtive. ;) How about adding a motion sensor, so the light is only on if you put something or your hand into the little compartment.

You can such things pretty cheap and completely setup - for example:
https://www.banggood.com/HC-SR505-Mini-Infrared-PIR-Motion-Sensor-Precise-Infrared-Detector-Module-p-1011714.html?rmmds=search&stayold=1&cur_warehouse= CN
Or:
https://www.banggood.com/search/motion-sensor.html

Regards, Markus

What? :confused:

That is exactly what this circuit does, Markus. ;)


I actually tried a unit similar to the one you posted, but it does not work well in such a small space or in a moving vehicle. The circuit I designed is built for a small space, accuracy and ease of construction (anyone can put the original circuit together with only a few components, regardless of electronics experience).


.

PW, your mod looks nice. Since my VW Sportswagon has all it's courtesy lights in red which I really like. All of your courtesy lighting is Blue which also looks good. I might could do the OEM courtesy lighting with that color Led's. It most likely would take several since they are not to bright. Yes!

OK, i should read threads from the beginning. :D
OK, i should read threads from the beginning. :D
OK, i should read threads from the beginning. :D
And still don't have the time to do it, sorry.

Do you have a stabilized power supply for your circuit? Something like a switching power supply that generates a constant power and current?

Also do you have a potentiometer to regulate the IR circuit sensivity? I thing that's important.

Regards, Markus

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