04-07-2016, 10:17 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: WASHINGTON DC
Posts: 23
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Hi PorscheFan5 and everyone else. Its been a long time coming but I finally got around to fixing my door lock cylinder. I ordered the VW Kit that you mentioned PorscheFan5 and sure enough once I took apart the lock it was the circular round piece with the "ears" that had broken. It definitely works, but it seems like the whole mechanism is a little stiff when I turn the key and it gets a little jammed. Do you guys think that the fitment might be a tad too tight and thats whats causing the problem? I remember someone mentioning about filing the VW piece down just a little, even though it looks ifentical! Im thinking of reopening it before I install it back in the door so that I can put some grease in there. Any recommendations if that will help and whats the best kind of grease for the lock cylinder? Also, the clamp spring on top gave me some trouble, but I believe I installed it correctly after spending over an hour trying to figure it out, it doesnt seem to work too well and the two ends of the clamp spring get caught on the side metal when I turn the ket sometimes. I looked at the spring more closely and it seems that it has warped. Is there any place for me to buy that spring? Im talking about the one that gives tension/resistence when you turn the key, not the one that pushes up and down deeper inside.
So does anyone know where I can buy that exact spring that tensions the key?
Does anyone have a picture of how they reinstalled that tension spring so I can make sure I did it correctly?
And does anyone know what the best grease is for the cylinder housing/assembly to make the key turn easier and not get stuck/jammed?
I appreciate all the help. I still have the lock cylinder out of the car and the handle hanging. Had to put a tarp over the car because its raining over here, so Im trying to get the part as soon as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance guys! Waiting for your replies!!!
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04-07-2016, 10:52 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
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Hellas59,
Other than the aforementioned filing of the ears I did not have to do much. I would just check the fitment. Yes getting the whole thing together again was a, as some people say it, a pita! Definitely needed a second set of hands...
Any shop grease will do. This is not that critical...
Sorry no detailed pictures of the install, but not sure if those would help you...
Hope I answered all the questions...
RegulatorFix,
Sorry missed on uploading the pic you asked...here it is...
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04-07-2016, 11:36 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: WASHINGTON DC
Posts: 23
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Hi PorscheFan5,
Nice to hear from you my friend. Yea it was definitely a pita to put it back together. But when you think about the cost to get something like this fixed...forget about it! I ordered your "kit" from amazon and it was like $5-$6 compared to the hundreds that would be spent at a dealership. I figured out just now how to put the spring on correctly so that the lock has tension when you turn it both ways. All good as far as that. The spring itself though has two parts that stick out so that they can latch onto the oar and keep the cylinder centered...one of the sides that sticks out is actually touching slightly I just noticed and causing it to get stuck just enough. Im gonna try to remove it and file it down so that it doesnt make the key get stuck while turning the cylinder. Despite that, before installing the spring in question, I put it together and it was still not a "smooth" turn on either side, thats why I asked about adding grease and also if I need to file down the "ears". It was a VERY tight fit for all those pieces when I installed the new "ears" piece...you think I should file it down a bit or no since everything fits? I think I should probably leave it the way it is..I dont know..you know better...please guide me! Thank you so much PorscheFan5 for the quick reply and all the info. As well as to all the people on this forum and specifically this thread for contributing this info. Everyone thought I was crazy when I told them that I was gonna try to fix the door lock myself, turns out is was pretty darn easy and thats because of all you guys. I THANK YOU ALL. Hope the reassembly onto the door will go just as smoothly  PS...thanks for the tools heads up too, I bought an alteranative 100 piece bit set from Amazon for just under $20 and it had all the M bits I needed for disassembly!
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04-07-2016, 02:16 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
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You are welcome. I think you should compare the two pieces with the ears visually and you will see where it needs filing. If I remember it correctly I did not have to file the ears down but on the side....Once you do that it will turn smoothly I think, unless there is something else going on. On the spring you don't need to file anything, perhaps you are not putting it together correctly. Try turning it upside down...
I would send you pics if I had mine open...but as I said it may not have been of much help. You have already figured out most of it and you will get the rest done.
Last edited by PorscheFan5; 04-07-2016 at 02:18 PM.
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04-07-2016, 05:02 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: WASHINGTON DC
Posts: 23
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Thank you PorscheFan5. I got it into the car. Everything works great! God Bless you. Whats the proper way of installing the lock into the car? It was so difficult reattaching the metal backing from one end to with the finished handle part on the outside. It didnt help that I didnt remove the metal bar nor the airbag assembly for extra hand room. It was very very difficult to get it in that way, I needed a second pair of hands and still was tough. At the end of the day it all worked out and the car locks and opens perfectly as well as puts down my windows. My Keyless entry recently went out so I need to figure out how to reprogram it. Do I have to go to the dealership for this? Please let me know guys, and sorry if it is a little off topic. Also my key fob button is a little quirky and you have to push really hard on the button for it to blink red and unlock the doors. A few years ago a friend of mine helped me solder the button back on the microchip, but it seems like its losing connection again (New battery already installed in the key). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks again!!!
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04-08-2016, 08:48 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
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 You most likely have to go to the dealership to reprogram the fob. And you might have to open the fob up again to check why you have to press so hard. Perhaps the switch has shifted/come loose or the rubber is not pressing the correct place. Once you open it you will see it.
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12-27-2016, 12:00 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 5
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Hello guys!!! I need help. I can't figure out how to put the spring back so it has tension when I turn the key. Can somebody please post a picture of how it's supposed to be? Any assistance I would really appreciate!
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12-27-2016, 04:46 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthsac
Hello guys!!! I need help. I can't figure out how to put the spring back so it has tension when I turn the key. Can somebody please post a picture of how it's supposed to be? Any assistance I would really appreciate!
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I have one with 'tips' to get the fiddely spring back in and the retainer "C" on top, but for the Passat:
RegulatorFix.com under the 'tutorials' tab is the link to the PDF.
http://regulatorfix.com/docs/vwlockrepairv1fv9.pdf
Excerpt: "Step11 : This is where the spring goes in, when you are pushing the paddle down you need to twist it put
the other end of the spring behind the catch roughly in the position of the arrow.
This part was a SERIOUS pain in the arse for me. I dont' have any tips for this, possible long
nails and push the lock against your chest as you put downward pressure and turn it. It does
go in but took me like 3 hrs as I ripped my nails to crap "
I think I red somewhere to take a ball pen apart, put a slot in one of the tubes (for the spring end) to help with twisting and pushing the spring.
I get it sometimes in one minute, but first time took me forever.
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12-27-2016, 08:42 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,476
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Look at the pic attached. You can just see the spring ends behind the lock cylinder actuator lever. You will place the spring ends on opposite sides of the lever under tension to work properly.
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01-09-2017, 11:44 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Seattle
Posts: 362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peraspera19
Hopefully this will help others save money in the future!
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You are awesome for this, Thank you
I just replaced my doorlock with this kit and it had the piece I needed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT1GUNK/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
If anyone else needs to do this in the future and don't want to struggle remembering how to put it back together (me), here's a little sequence in reinstalling along with some pictures
First off, here's the old bunny ear piece still packed with old lithium grease in the lock

The culprit
The top row is what's included in the $3.49 regulator fix package
Part circled in yellow replaces number 1
Sequence for reinstallation ;
1 goes in first, with the bunny ears facing UPWARDS.
2 goes in second with the ears facing DOWNWARD.
than its the tricky part. You have to install 3 and 4 at the same time.
The spring (3) first with the paddle right on top of it.
But the ring(4) has to be in before the paddle is locked by the quick release washer(5)
If you refer back to the first picture,
you want the ring(simulated in red) to seat between the green lines marked.
Squeeze the ears on number 4 to the opposite directions(yellow)
Than once in place, push the paddle down and retain it together by sliding in the quick release washer(5).
Don't forget to pack with enough white lithium grease!
Hope this helps others in the future.
__________________
2000 Boxster S, SPEC stage 1 clutch, Fabspeed sport headers, Fabspeed secondary cat deletes, Billy&Boat muffler, EVOM air intake, Ben006's Custom Short Shifter, Pedro's TechnoBrace, Eibach rear sway bar, De-snorkeled, Fred's custom projector HL
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07-19-2017, 12:56 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: usa
Posts: 1
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This post will save my money as now i can repair padlock by own. I won't prefer calling the dealer or locksmith for such lock repairs. I appreciate your effort in providing such brilliant information..
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09-09-2017, 03:38 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 2
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You have shared a brilliant content, by learning from this you can repair your padlock by own.You won't need any locksmith to repair padlock.
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09-09-2017, 03:39 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 2
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You have shared a brilliant content, by learning from this you can repair your padlock by own.You won't need any locksmith to repair padlock.
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03-02-2018, 01:36 PM
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#14
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2000 Boxster S
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Woodside, Ca
Posts: 18
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I just finished this job and Dubaday's comments are perfect. Do not use any new part EXCEPT for the broken bunny ear part (Part 1). Even though part 2 looks similar, the new one is slightly larger and will frustrate the heck out of you when you try and lock on the springs. Obviously the paddle is different and had seemed to have and caused a lot of confusion in earlier posts.
Here are the steps I recommend:
1) order VW part from Amazon or EBay
2) order triple square bit set (I stripped one bolt with a T-30 torx that seemed to fit)
3) disconnect battery
4) remove door panel
5) remove metal bar and airbag (you need the room for sure)
6) the rest has already been described well...use all old parts except part 1
Obviously if something other than part 1 is broken then disregard!
Last edited by Booker42; 03-02-2018 at 01:56 PM.
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06-19-2018, 01:58 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: oakland ca
Posts: 7
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Thanks for the info!
Here's a good how to video I made with $4 ebay part
https://youtu.be/pzSZnWOb_Z4
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08-19-2018, 09:17 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 6
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mechanical operation ok, but not electronics...
fixed the lock, the ears had broken off. had to file down the shoulders of the tab so the key would turn smoothly (interesting design to use that tab as a cam to create friction the more you turn the key). thanks to all for the advice, ideas. i was so pleased about rebuilding the lock, but things after reassembling the door things are not working. it all looks right, the key unlocks the drivers door, but the passenger door does not follow, it does not lock or unlock. just mechanical locking is working. all the wires look connected. any advice?
Also, the windows do work, they move down just that little bit when you pull up the latch, but it seems to me the window is not aligned any more, there seem more gap to the left of raised glass, and even lowered it hits the roof. could diassembling the door have moved the window position?
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08-02-2021, 06:07 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 1,180
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about what? this thread is over 8 years old
__________________
2000 Boxster Tiptronic
2003 Boxster
2003 996 C2 Cab
2002 996 (SOLD)
1986 944 (gone but missed)
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08-03-2021, 07:14 AM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stl-986
about what? this thread is over 8 years old
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About the quoted text (its right in my post).
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08-03-2021, 02:33 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 1,180
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You might want to ask on Rennlist under the 987 section as the 986 boxster isn't the same and is what majority of this forum is for.
__________________
2000 Boxster Tiptronic
2003 Boxster
2003 996 C2 Cab
2002 996 (SOLD)
1986 944 (gone but missed)
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08-03-2021, 03:24 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stl-986
You might want to ask on Rennlist under the 987 section as the 986 boxster isn't the same and is what majority of this forum is for.
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Will check the 987 forums; I found one photo so far (but not confirmed if it IS the lock of a 987), and that looked completely different from the 986 lock.
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