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-   -   Oil Change (http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/42089-oil-change.html)

ProjectM96 01-07-2013 06:04 AM

Oil Change
 
Many of you probably already know how to do this, especially with Pelican Parts and Pedro Parts how to Articles. This short walkthrough is not exactly in order, but you get the idea.

I changed the oil yesterday. 93,400 miles. It was relatively warm out. 40 F degrees.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8214/8...e1d46355_z.jpg

Just for extra precaution incase the other jacks fail.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8508/8...4814e179_z.jpg
It takes 9.2 quarts of 0W-40 Mobil 1 Oil. Open oil cap before draining oil.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8...e20f65c1_b.jpg

You will need a good oil filter wrench. The unversal size filter wrenches do not work well at all. Get the "Dodge Sprint" Oil Filter Wrench from a Pepboys or Autozone. It is a perfect fit for our Boxsters. (Don't ask how I know) Use it with a ratchet to open it.
Here is the oil filter in middle of car. You can see I already drained the oil since the oil drain plug is missing on the bottom of the oil pan. You need an 8mm hex bit to drain the oil.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8192/8...324d6587b0.jpg
In this picture you can see the new magnetic oil drain plug I replaced. Now I can use a normal wrench to open the drain plug, making it much easier.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8078/8...0f9745b3bc.jpg
Here is the inside filter material that needs to be replaced once you remove the oil filter housing.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8183/8...4685025376.jpg
It took about 10 minutes for all the oil to drain. Make sure you drain most of the oil before removing and replacing oil filter.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8334/8...8e1016f1_b.jpg

Inspect oil filter for debris. Luckily, my oil filter had no clear plastic(RMS) or metal(IMS) shards.

After you tighten everything, poor 9 quarts of oil back inside. Check oil level. Add if needed. Start the car. Run for 5 minutes. Rev the engine. Check for leaks. Done.

Here is the short video revving the engine while checking for leaks.
VIDEO0054 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Kurt V 01-07-2013 06:42 AM

Excellent tutorial even for those that might have read the other articles. Nothing beats large, clear pictures!

BoxsterSteve 01-07-2013 02:29 PM

Awesome!

An oil change out in the street.

Here I thought I was the only one who did that!

ProjectM96 01-08-2013 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxsterSteve (Post 322388)
Awesome!

An oil change out in the street.

Here I thought I was the only one who did that!

Well I didn't want to drip any oil on my own drive way. haha.

stephen wilson 01-08-2013 07:41 AM

Interesting curb technique! I'm surprised you were able to drive onto that without getting hung up.

ProjectM96 01-08-2013 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stephen wilson (Post 322466)
Interesting curb technique! I'm surprised you were able to drive onto that without getting hung up.

I have been using the curb for years because I didn't want to buy jacks. My car is lowered an inch but I never have any problems getting up on the curb. It is safer too because you know the curb would never fail and drop the car on you.

BoxsterSteve 01-08-2013 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProjectM96 (Post 322447)
Well I didn't want to drip any oil on my own drive way. haha.

My reasoning also...
The neighbours sure get their knickers in a twist over it though!

986_c6 01-11-2013 01:56 AM

That curb technique is what blew me away with your tutorial.

Great pics btw.

ekam 01-11-2013 07:45 AM

Lowered car + drain plug sticking out from the oil pan = fun times ahead.

Topless 01-11-2013 09:03 AM

Nice use of curbing and a good tutorial. One minor nit pick. Your jack stand locations are in very soft points under the car. If the car weight rests on them it will bend stuff you don't want bent.

ProjectM96 01-14-2013 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topless (Post 323371)
Nice use of curbing and a good tutorial. One minor nit pick. Your jack stand locations are in very soft points under the car. If the car weight rests on them it will bend stuff you don't want bent.

The jacks in the middle are there for emergency only incase the main jacks fail. They are not actually supporting the car at all as they were about 1-2mm away from touching the bottom of the car. The car was being supported from the jack points only.

ProjectM96 01-14-2013 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ekam (Post 323365)
Lowered car + drain plug sticking out from the oil pan = fun times ahead.

I'm not worried. The black rear sway bar or whatever that part is called as well as the Catalytic converters are slighter lower than the oil pan. And I never have any trouble with them scraping. 3 inches of ground clearance is just enough to drive anywhere, except really steep driveways.

gomarlins3 02-23-2015 11:19 AM

Video I found on Youtube for my upcoming project:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0m-hDzvfns

steved0x 02-23-2015 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomarlins3 (Post 437479)
Video I found on Youtube for my upcoming project:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0m-hDzvfns

I have seen that one before and in my opinion leaving the car on an angle like that by only lifting the back seems like it doesn't allow as much oil to drain out. But he did get 9 full quarts back in there so maybe there is not much difference.

What I do now is drive onto ramps and jack the back up and put on stands, and then after it is done draining I raise and lower the back to see if I can get any more oil out, and usually a decent amount (maybe 4-8 ounces?) comes out. Typing it out I guess it is not very much :)

On my Toyotas and son's Miata, I also get some side to side raising and lowering but the chassis on the Boxster is too rigid and so that doesn't work.

Overkill? Probably :) Unsure if getting that little bit of extra oil out is worth it, but I do it.

At a minimum I would at least have the car level to drain the oil.

I like his method of putting a box around the oil drain pan.

I also usually remove the oil fill cap after removing the drain plug as it slightly slows the initial rush of oil coming out. It comes out FAST!

gomarlins3 02-23-2015 05:02 PM

How do you jack up the back and use jack stands? Don't they go at the same points?

steved0x 02-23-2015 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomarlins3 (Post 437523)
How do you jack up the back and use jack stands? Don't they go at the same points?

I'll put in a link tomorrow but I jack from the rear of the car going under the bumper and jack from one of three points, I don't want to describe it wrong so I will post a link/picture in the morning. Then I put the jack stands at the jack points that you can use when changing a tire using the spare tire jack.

There is also a thread on here somewhere, you can put the whole car on 4 stands with only 2 lifts of the jack. I use 3 and do it in stages.

Edit: Figure 2 is where I lift the back, and I usually lift from the left because the way my garage is.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up/01-BASICS-Jacking_Up.htm

For the from I then lift from the factory jack point and put my stand on the reinforced area shown in figure 1.

gomarlins3 02-24-2015 05:36 AM

Got it, thank you.

lkchris 02-24-2015 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomarlins3 (Post 437523)
How do you jack up the back and use jack stands? Don't they go at the same points?

You solve that problem by using these ...

http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

gomarlins3 02-24-2015 03:48 PM

That's pretty slick.

JayG 02-25-2015 04:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lkchris (Post 437600)
You solve that problem by using these ...

http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

Those are very cool!
$300 at pair, you would expect them to say Porsche.


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