Ignition switch problems, need advice/ help
 

Had trouble last week getting my key out of the ignition and noticed it no longer kicked back to on once started so I did a search and ordered the electric piece of the ignition and researched Pedro's garage.

Got the new piece in and changed them out this morning but ran into a pretty big issue, when I reconnected my battery and went to start the car I got the Airbag error and all other lights on, but the key would not turn. I have since disconnected the battery and removed the new part but does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong here?

I ordered the part from Autohauz and it is the Meyle unit. Has any else experience similar or have any ideas as to what may be wrong? I did not have any error lights or electrical issues before changing the switch.

Got it working now and no lights at all. Thanks,

Glad you got it to work out. In the future, no need to disconnect the battery. Just replace the switch.

I had read that it could be done either way and figured disconnecting would be the safer bet. Hopefully there wont be any need to do this again in the future though as I had a real hard time getting into position. The job took mere minutes but me not being a contortionist made it a lot more difficult at 6'2 and 250. lol

My key doesn't stick, but I have to manually turn it back or it will stay in start mode and the starter will wine. Is this the same issue you had? If so what is the part or can you post a link as I am not familiar with "pedro".

Thanks Markp.

the part # you need is:

4A0 905 849 B

It's a common VW/Audi part. You can buy it for ~ $10 online from ************************************************************ or check w/ a local Audi or VW dealer. Many times P-car dealers try and sell/tell you a new complete ignition tumbler along w/ the switch. Obviously mucho dinero.

Incidentally, do you not get a noticeable 'clunk' when you pull the key out of the ignition switch? If not, you definitely have an ignition switch issue which you want to jump on ASAP before your battery gets drained.

Anyhow, Pedro is one of if not THE most passionate and generous Boxster enthusiasts I have ever met. He runs a biz in south FL called Pedro's Garage. Aside from selling some Boxster performance products (techno brace, technoTorque among other things), he contributes many DIY write ups to help even not so well equipped shade tree mechanics care for their Boxster and most importantly save $$$.

Incidentally, I do have a technoTorque (which is new to the market) installed in my '99 and I must say I am convinced of it's benefits and claims.

Hey thanks, when i googled it the part came up as $35.00. I hope its something I can do myself. I am changing my rear bumper cover currently. Actually that is pretty easy, just about 6 screws and a few hex nuts.

It is easy, but you need to get a very small "hobby sized" flat head screwdriver to loosen the set screws holding the switch down. I've had a set of small flat and phillips head drivers for years that I used to work on r/c cars and planes with.

I assure you it can be done, I ended up just cutting one of my smaller screw drivers down to size in order to remove the screws.

Also, my problem started out exactly like yours. My key stopped returning after ignition, luckily the starter disengages on a Porsche and doesn't keep trying. I'd suggest ordering the part right away. I found better prices than $35.00 in multiple locations even though $35.00 is not expensive for what you save by doing yourself, you may want to look around. :cheers:

Wow!! Pedro's site is amazing. I ordered the part from my autozone as they will have it tomorrow and it was only $8 more than autohouz(with ship). This project looks like a no brainer. I have always been kind of handy with this kind of stuff(for a suit). I just hate throwing money away to let some one else do something I can do myself(Just like most of us). I have already taken my rear bumper off to replace it with another one that isn't damaged. Next I might look into the 60k tune up. I am 50 miles away from the nearest P-mechanic. I have changed the brakes and blead them on my V-max cycle, so I am sure I can follow detailed directions.

Thanks a lot for the helpful links!! :cheers:

ok, the project is a no brainer, if your hands are like frickin tiny. Good god pedro must have like little people hands. :eek: I got to the part and couldn't for the life of me get the screw driver even close(watch size driver). I had no problem contorting my 6'2" fram under the seat, and the airduct was easy off. I finally said to hell with it(for now) after about 10 tries. The airduct was easy off, but a massive pain to get back on.

Well i will try again later when i am not all worked up and frustrated. Oh my porsche ate my watch screw drive. Damn thing dropped down behind a side panel. :mad:

My experience started the same. I took my time to remove the red paint that is covering the existing screw heads and then got a 110 lber to finish the job. First time my wife was able to say she fixed the car, lol. There was no way I was getting my hands in there from the bottom.

Some folks have found it easier to remove the headlight switch and air vent and access the screws from the side instead of the rear. This may be an option for you as well.

Thanks, I definately might have to try removing some stuff. Can I do damage to the ignition system if I just wait a while?

Seems like just about everything electronic is somehow tied in through that switch. You can end up with lots of issues such as alarm going off, key stuck, engine running after turning off, battery draining dead, etc. I would not wait too long as it could strand you as well.

Ok, just finished up the ignition switch and it works like a champ. Here are some helpfull hints.
http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Replace%20Ignition%20Switch%20%20%20.html

1.) remove the air vent underneath just slides off, no screws. if your fat hands(like mine) won't fit. I found a pretty easy and medium labor intensive.

2.) remove top drivers side panel. 2 screws on the side(open door.) pull head light switch forward and use a small screw driver to release bottom metal thingy and the switch pulls right out, no pressure. You need a star (t-15 i think) to get the screw out of the light switches long hole. I had to make another trip to autozone for that(fricking idiot germans). Now just pull the whole unit towards you. It takes a little force because of the vent seal thing. Nothing realy to break so just work up the sides and then the top. Make sure not to lose the pink screw clips.
3.) remove the one screw in vent behind light switch(this is a must and is most the trouble, but I found a cure to your ills). the vent just drops down to the floor.
4.) now both screws are visable and easily removed with a small screwdriver(I mean small). Mine took little effort to loosen screws a few turns. Now it should fall off. remove the wire harnes on back.
5.) now you need to slide under to see which way the half moon thing is facing. I tried to align the new switch with the old but it was off. The unit will slide right on snuggly when it is aligned properly, it will not fit snug if it isn't. tighten screws and snap the electric harness back on, turn key to make sure it works before you put everything back together.
6.) Now here is the time saver. you need to push the headlight switch wires down to the right and stick a towel in the vent so you don't lose the screw(yep I lost one). If you lose a screw 1 of the 4 fuse box screws fit perfectly(I will replace that later). I had to take the fuse box housing off to retrieve a screw driver I lost anyways(oops). put it all back together and it should work like a champ.
7.) if the pink screw holders slide out of sink on the door jam side , just use an ice pick to realign them. The hardest thing was trying to figure out how not to drop a screw until I got the towel out, oh, don't forget to take the towel out, :eek:


Thanks to pedro for the general idea, and thanks to spyder for suggesting going through the vent hole. I got my part through auto zone for about $20 next day pickup.

HEY SPYDER, my replacement wasn't white is was black and identical to the first one. What was yours?

Glad you were able to work it out, great write up! Mine was black as well. I didn't line up the half moon correctly the first time which was part of my problem but we pulled it back out and got it right the second time. My wife gets a kick out of telling the family how "she" fixed the Porsche. LOL

LOL(wife), I am going to tackle the sparkplugs and the serpentine belt tomorrow. The belt looks like cake.

Yes it is.

Just replaced the ignition switch this morning. Thanks to all on the great DIY advice from forum members about the job. What I found in doing the job is that there seems to be some tangible benefits from both practicing yoga and having lowered GT3 seats in the car.

I got to the switch assembly by putting my back flat (sorta) on the seat bottom with my legs up in the air on the seat back. That gave me both hands free and a clear view of where to work with my head stuffed in with the pedals. Quite a bend for my 5'10" 180 lb 59 year old body, but hey thats why they make advil...

BTY, I did not think I was having any problems with my original switch, I just replaced it as part of my 90K service I am doing on the car. But I did find that the new switch fixed one glich I was having. With the old switch, at idle, the dash lights would sorta flicker, I thought it may be my battery. But with the new switch in place, the dash lights are stable and bright at idle, cool,

Ed

:dance:

old switch
 

A few pictures of my old switch, pretty bad shape; all of my electrical gremlins were sorted out when I replaced this a few weeks ago.

I found getting the ac duct back in place to be the most tedious portion of the job.

Thanks to all for the DIY steps and advise :)

I'd like to chime in here as well. Replaced the plastic end portion of my ignition switch about two weeks ago after a week of having a hard time getting the key out of the switch, then finally hearing that teltale sound of plastic "CRACK" as I put the key in one morning.

One of the posted DIYs recommended to cut most of the handle end of a shorty, flat head screwdriver to allow for more room to get the two end screws out. I ended up doing this twice. The first screwdriver I cut ended up with the shaft rotating in what was left of the handle so that was a useless waste of a screwdriver, old as that tool was. Luckily I had a similar size screwdriver, cut that and it worked fine.

one also might want to add buy TWO of these since they are so cheap

this part will break again

I followed the DIY instructions in these strings and I was able to change my ignition switch. I do have a few bumps on my head and did have some minor claustrophobia (and I am only 5'10" 195 lbs). I actually did drop my screwdriver a few times, but since I read up a bit I tied a shoelace to the end of it and was able to easily retrieve it.

My issue is the car starts, no problem, but even if I floor the gas I can't get it above 1500 rpms. Does anyone know if there is something I did that is tied to the fuel injection? It was nice to be able to turn the key smoothly again, but if I can't drive it there is no fun in it.

Thanks

Ignition Switch Issue ... SOLVED
 

Thanks to all for the information. Tonight my wife had to run and errand in my car and when she turned the key on it didnt start. So she turned it off and couldnt get the key out. I tried and tried and no luck. I remembered all this talk about ignition switches from a few years ago before I bought my car and looked up the resource again.

Great job on the description of this project. I have to say that once I was down on my back it wasnt too uncomfortable but getting in there and getting out was the hard part.

The best part of all this was about a year ago I bought the ignition switch in case it needed replacing and tonight I put it to use.

Car is working great again and on a scale from 1-10 for me this was a 3 just because of the getting in and out of the car. Tonight I wish I had arms as short as this guy :dance: as it would have been much easier.

Happy New Year to all.

This really is an easy fix, I would recommend anyone to try it. Saved a ton of $$$

I thought it might help to list the tools needed for the job.

1 T15 L-key (at least 5 inches long) for the screw next to the headlight switch
1 T15 L-key (standard length) or insert for multi-tip screwdriver for the door side screws holding the vent panel on
1 medium Phillips screwdriver (long helps) for the screw inside the vent
1 small flathead screwdriver no more than 6 inches long, shorter may help (the cheap precision kit screwdrivers fit nicely, but tough to get enough torque to crack the loctite)
work light (cordless LED is nice)

Toughest part of the install was the whole idea of getting under the dash. I'm 5"11 220lbs, there's no way I can fit in there. Fortunately, my wife (although almost my height) is about 1/2 my size and she managed to fit in there and work from underneath while I did things from on top.

Thanks to mptoledo and his additional tip about the headlight switch, burgboxster for the part info and the link to Pedro's Garage, and Pedro for the great instructions!!! You guys rock! :cheers:

one also might want to add buy TWO of these since they are so cheap

I just got done with this job and it's one of those that just needs a ton of patience only because of its location and the likelihood of not having the right screwdriver for the job.

I had a flashlight set up to point to the ignition switch. After putting a towel over the door sill, I slid my 6' 2" frame headfirst on my back under the dash with a 3 1/2" flat head screwdriver that you might use on a computer in one hand. The tip of that screwdriver is about 3 mm wide at most. There was still loctite from the factory on the two set screws. I moved as far to the gas pedal side as I could to get the bottom screw using my right hand and then used my left hand kind of over my head for the top screw. It wasn't easy mostly because I didn't have the perfect screwdriver for the job. But after about 30 minutes, I got it all done and went to start it up and nothing. I had panel lights but not even the click-click-click you might get from a dead battery. So I went back under and reinstalled it and made sure the switch was seated well and put it all back together in about 5 minutes and this time it started right up.

$10 part. 40 minutes of my time. Success and slightly sore back from doing some yoga I hadn't planned on.:dance:

When I replaced mine I took the seat out dropped the top and just laid on the floor it was easier that way, being 6'1" and 240lbs and 67 years old with a herniated disk in the lower back. Much easier that way.

Remove the vent and duct first.

Own a 2000 Boxster S with 55,000 miles.

Began having problems inserting and removing the key. Blower for heater/air conditioner stopped operating. Electric windows would not go up all the way on one occasion. The digital portion of the odometer began blacking out.

The issue with removing the key eventually got to the point where I pulled the plastic piece/end away from the metal part of the key, which remained stuck in the ignition. That happened twice. The only way to remove the metal portion of the key and shut off the vehicle was with a set of pliers.

Ordered the ignition switch from Peilcan and replaced it this morning. The part was approximately $12.00 with shipping.

It's a relatively easy do-it-yourself fix.

Firstly, you have to remove the duct work directly underneath the dash. It's easy as it squeezes together like an accordion and just pops off.

Once that is complete, the most difficult act is positioning yourself in such a manner whereby you can access the miniscule set screws that hold in the electrical portion of the switch.

You will need a flat head screwdriver the size of which you would use to adjust the screws on a pair of eyeglasses. My switch was original, so I had to scrape away wax or plastic or paint from the two screw heads.

Unplug the wire set/plug assembly from the switch.

DO NOT remove the set screws, simply loosen them enough so that you can pull out the switch. This is the most difficult part of the process since the screws are so tiny and somewhat difficult to access. I'm six feet tall and have wide shoulders, so it took some doing to get in a position on my back whereby I could get anything done. I had to use my left hand to loosen the screws. You will need a light. I used a headlamp which worked great as it keeps your hands free.

The switch will slide right out. I then unhooked the negative terminal on the battery.

I took the new switch and plugged it into the wire set/plug assembly. I would recommend doing that before you slide the new switch back into place as it plugs together a little hard. I couldn't imagine trying to do it any other way. Slide the new switch back into place and tighten the two set screws.

Replace the duct work.

Shut your doors and trunk if you have them open.

Hook up the negative battery terminal you previously unhooked. Shut the hood.

Insert the key and start 'er up. She should be good to go with no problems.

The new switch cured all of the little issues described above. The key also can now be inserted and removed with ease.

Ignition key won't turn
 

My initial problem was i could not remove key when in the off position. I have replaced the cylinder lock, steering wheel lock assembly complete with electrical component, immobilizer (little black box). Now with the new (used) parts in place i can't turn the key clockwise out of the off position. I can remove the key.

Any advise? I really need some.

Regards,
George Godfrey

When I put the key in my ignition switch, sometimes it will turn and sometimes it won’t. I might need a new ignition switch. In the meantime will spraying the key with WD-40 help or hurt the situation? Please help. Thanks. Dave.

You DO need a new ignition switch. Get it done!