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-   -   DRL-Fog Light Hack (http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/20838-drl-fog-light-hack.html)

itskenallen 03-24-2017 01:34 PM

Cheers Particlewave. Ur a gentleman

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itskenallen 03-27-2017 02:06 AM

Particlewave have I the right wire in the front passenger side (drivers side US)? I tapped into the yellow/black, connected to the relay for the DRL'S and I have no dims on that side only since. Checked the voltage with the engine running and nothing. I do however have 13V in the top right hand pin as you're looking at it.
Edit.. Blew the headlight dim fuse.
OK.. So which wire do I use now.

As these headlight wires are very awkward to tap into is there any other wire I could use that's easily accessible?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0cb1dbddcf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc7658b48c.jpg

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particlewave 03-27-2017 07:44 AM

Replace the fuse and try again.
That wire from the DRL controller is signal only, so will not increase the load enough to blow a fuse. Make sure you're using the correct controller wire and that nothing is shorting to ground.

To answer your question, no. The headlight dim circuit has a high rating.

itskenallen 03-27-2017 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave (Post 531663)
Replace the fuse and try again.
That wire from the DRL controller is signal only, so will not increase the load enough to blow a fuse. Make sure you're using the correct controller wire and that nothing is shorting to ground.

To answer your question, no. The headlight dim circuit has a high rating.

Excuse my ignorance but I'm either really thick
Or I'm not understanding you.

In the diagram above, what wire do I connect the black wire coming from the controller that says "headlight /dashlight"?

The switch live in my headlights is the grey wire with a black strip, when connected to that I have only 50% power in the DRL's. Fml

I have the 2 DRL's wired together ( red to red and black to black) and then run to the controller.

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particlewave 03-27-2017 03:29 PM

The headlight/dashboard light wire should be tied into the yellow wire with black stripe, just like you did. Just make sure that it's the correct wire (headlight/dashboard light) and not the ground wire.
I find it odd that the headlight/dashboard light wire is black at all. Trigger wires are usually positive and would be yellow, blue, grey...anything but black.

particlewave 03-27-2017 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itskenallen (Post 531685)
The switch live in my headlights is the grey wire with a black strip, when connected to that I have only 50% power in the DRL's. Fml

Please clarify. When what is connected to that wire?

oldskool73 03-27-2017 04:15 PM

"The switch live in my headlights is the grey wire with a black strip, when connected to that I have only 50% power in the DRL's. Fml " ... isn't that the point of that wire? Your DRL controller looks like one of the auto sensing ones that turns itself on and off via the battery voltage. That extra wire is to dim the DRL's when the main lights are on. If you don't want that to happen, just don't connect that wire... though MOT rules might require them to dim when the lights are on?

itskenallen 03-27-2017 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave (Post 531738)
Please clarify. When what is connected to that wire?

I mean when I connect the wire from the controller that's marked "headlight /dashboard light" to the grey /black stripe (13V when lights switched on).

There is no voltage on the yellow/ black stripe when the lights are on.

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itskenallen 03-27-2017 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskool73 (Post 531745)
"The switch live in my headlights is the grey wire with a black strip, when connected to that I have only 50% power in the DRL's. Fml " ... isn't that the point of that wire? Your DRL controller looks like one of the auto sensing ones that turns itself on and off via the battery voltage. That extra wire is to dim the DRL's when the main lights are on. If you don't want that to happen, just don't connect that wire... though MOT rules might require them to dim when the lights are on?

Problem is they're not lighting fully at all, even with the ignition on and the headlights off.

particlewave 03-27-2017 11:47 PM

There's definitely some weirdness happening here. The yellow/black wire is, without a doubt, the low beam 12V+ feed to the headlight (all 986 models, every country).

I'm also confused by your grey/black wire inside the headlight. With the 100+ headlights I've worked on, I've never seen a grey/black wire inside the headlight. On every set I've worked on, the low beam + is yellow, high beam + is white/red, and parking light + is solid grey. Can you post a picture of the wiring inside the headlight? Where are you getting your main 12V+ (red controller wire input) and ground from?

Can you post a link to the controller you're using?

The top right pin you are referring to is the parking light positive voltage, so it will have power when the headlights are in. The bottom right pin is the low beam positive power and should be getting voltage with the low beams on (it's what the yellow black wire feeds to).

Here is the pinout for the headlight connector (reverse left/right for car side, of course).

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...20C5098C03.jpg

oldskool73 03-28-2017 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itskenallen (Post 531772)
Problem is they're not lighting fully at all, even with the ignition on and the headlights off.

I'd not connect that wire to anything yet then, take the headlights completely out of the equation, just connect the controller to the battery and the red & black wires to the DRL and see if they light fully. If they still don't light fully you have a faulty drl and/or controller.

Also, looks to me like in the image you attached they have mislabeled the wires. Looks like the one labeled 'DRL negative' is a white wire in a black sheath, from all the controllers I've seen it's normally a white wire that should be connected to the headlights for the dimming function. And the one marked 'Headlight / dashboard light' looks like the black negative wire that should be going to the DRL. If you've followed the labelling in that image, it's possible you have those 2 swapped around, which would blow the fuse and/or cause them not to light.

itskenallen 03-28-2017 12:27 AM

I've just awoken so I'll get a pic of the wiring in a bit.

I'm getting my positive and ground inputs direct from my battery.
Weird how I'm getting no voltage on the yellow/black wire with the ignition and lights on.

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itskenallen 03-28-2017 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskool73 (Post 531775)
I'd not connect that wire to anything yet then, take the headlights completely out of the equation, just connect the controller to the battery and the red & black wires to the DRL and see if they light fully. If they still don't light fully you have a faulty drl and/or controller.

Also, looks to me like in the image you attached they have mislabeled the wires. Looks like the one labeled 'DRL negative' is a white wire in a black sheath, from all the controllers I've seen it's normally a white wire that should be connected to the headlights for the dimming function. And the one marked 'Headlight / dashboard light' looks like the black negative wire that should be going to the DRL. If you've followed the labelling in that image, it's possible you have those 2 swapped around, which would blow the fuse and/or cause them not to light.

Yiu could possibly be right. I thought that wiring diagram was very strange too. Maybe that is the issue. Maybe I've blown the controller now because of that.

Here's the link to the controller I got so u can see for yourself it's wiring.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281928002375

oldskool73 03-28-2017 03:34 AM

Yeah if you take a look at this one, it looks like the same thing but they properly describe the wire colours, I think you have just the black and white wires the wrong way around.

12V LED Daytime Running Light DRL Relay Harness Automatic On/Off Switch Control

Try swapping them (black from controller to drl-, white tapped to yellow/black wire), the fuse may have protected it? Otherwise it's only another couple of quid to get a new one, not the end of the world :)

itskenallen 03-28-2017 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskool73 (Post 531791)
Yeah if you take a look at this one, it looks like the same thing but they properly describe the wire colours, I think you have just the black and white wires the wrong way around.

12V LED Daytime Running Light DRL Relay Harness Automatic On/Off Switch Control

Try swapping them (black from controller to drl-, white tapped to yellow/black wire), the fuse may have protected it? Otherwise it's only another couple of quid to get a new one, not the end of the world :)

Yes I agree fully. I've checked out a few more controllers on eBay and they ALL contradict the wiring on the diagram that came with my one. No harm done, they're a cheap set anyway. I'm more curious to see can I get it working now. I've already ordered a more expensive Osram set which is all connectors.
I'll reverse

I think this time I'll take out the fuse, and put in a 12V bulb I made up . An auto student friend of mine tells me if this lights up, I'm wrong.. Without blowing any fuse. Handy.

itskenallen 03-28-2017 12:47 PM

In relation to the new set I bought I've attached a screenshot. Would I be right in saying I attach #58 wire (no. 1 in pic) wire to pin 6 (top right on car) on my headlight connector (Park +)?

And where's the best place to connect no.2 (ignition +)? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cda0c3f3b1.jpg

itskenallen 03-29-2017 10:26 AM

Any idea on the Above @particlewave?

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particlewave 03-29-2017 11:17 PM

Yes. Green wire to top right pin, orange wire to switched 12V+.

Tapping the green wire to that pin will dim the DRLs when the headlight switch is in any on position (parking lights or headlights on). Tapping it into the yellow/black wire that you already tapped will dim them only when the headlights are on (DRLs at 100% with headlight switch off or in parking light position).

If you're still not getting 12V+ on the yellow/black wire (bottom right pin), then your fuse is probably blown again.

oldskool73 03-30-2017 12:01 AM

I think I've read (though not tried) you can get the switched 12v from the wiper motor, or just punch a small hole through the large rubber blank down behind the battery into the footwell and run tap into one of the switched fuses there.

itskenallen 03-30-2017 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskool73 (Post 531992)
I think I've read (though not tried) you can get the switched 12v from the wiper motor, or just punch a small hole through the large rubber blank down behind the battery into the footwell and run tap into one of the switched fuses there.

Yes I read about tapping into the fusebox but wondered where u get through the bulkhead, thanks.

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itskenallen 03-30-2017 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave (Post 531991)
Yes. Green wire to top right pin, orange wire to switched 12V+.

Tapping the green wire to that pin will dim the DRLs when the headlight switch is in any on position (parking lights or headlights on). Tapping it into the yellow/black wire that you already tapped will dim them only when the headlights are on (DRLs at 100% with headlight switch off or in parking light position).

If you're still not getting 12V+ on the yellow/black wire (bottom right pin), then your fuse is probably blown again.

Thank you again Charles. (may I call you that?)

particlewave 03-30-2017 04:22 PM

No problem and of course :cheers:

itskenallen 03-30-2017 11:43 PM

Btw Particlewave and Oldskool... I got the lights I installed a few days ago working. You guys were right. The diagram sent with the relay was wrong. As soon as I reversed those black wires it worked fine. Anyhow, I've a better set on the way.

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particlewave 03-31-2017 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itskenallen (Post 532106)
Btw Particlewave and Oldskool... I got the lights I installed a few days ago working. You guys were right. The diagram sent with the relay was wrong. As soon as I reversed those black wires it worked fine. Anyhow, I've a better set on the way.

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I can't say that I'm shocked that it was mislabeled. :rolleyes:

kallie 04-01-2017 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave (Post 530895)

Hi particlewave, I did this today. A straight forward job took 15 minutes at most with great results.:D:cheers:
Drove the car for about half an hour and the lens where the fog light is, did not get warm at all. Looks like the led put out very little heat if any.
Thanks again.

itskenallen 04-01-2017 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kallie (Post 532316)
Hi particlewave, I did this today. A straight forward job took 15 minutes at most with great results.:D:cheers:
Drove the car for about half an hour and the lens where the fog light is, did not get warm at all. Looks like the led put out very little heat if any.
Thanks again.

Good stuff.. Great to hear we've another option over this side of the Atlantic.

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particlewave 04-01-2017 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kallie (Post 532316)
Hi particlewave, I did this today. A straight forward job took 15 minutes at most with great results.:D:cheers:
Drove the car for about half an hour and the lens where the fog light is, did not get warm at all. Looks like the led put out very little heat if any.
Thanks again.

Nice work! Glad to help :cheers:

redciv1 06-05-2017 07:38 PM

So, I was thinking if the city/parking lights can be used the same way? Haven't checked to see if there is a relay for city/parking lamps, does anyone know?

particlewave 06-05-2017 08:15 PM

No relay and they aren't very bright. ;)

redciv1 06-06-2017 03:53 AM

Boo, thanks Particle!!!

redciv1 07-05-2017 04:49 AM

BTW, if no fuse taps then you can easily take 16-18g wire, strip both ends and then wrap one end around one blade of the fuse and then take the other end and wrap around the 86 relay terminal. This is the way I have mine setup.

redciv1 07-05-2017 04:55 AM

I just did this hack and purchased 2 LED H7s. I was adjusting my headlights after a HID projector retrofit and noticed after about 20 minutes and the car on in the garage, that my LED bulbs begin to flash alternately. I'm pretty sure that means I need a capacitor on each LED, but was wondering because other than one post in March of this year, I didn't see anyone speaking of this. Decided to undo the hack and put regular halogens back in for fogs.

Anker 07-05-2017 04:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redciv1 (Post 543013)
BTW, if no fuse taps then you can easily take 16-18g wire, strip both ends and then wrap one end around one blade of the fuse and then take the other end and wrap around the 86 relay terminal. This is the way I have mine setup.

Not a good idea. If you make the connection on one fuse leg the fog leg connection will be unfused and if do it on the other the fuse risks being overloaded when you turn the headlights on. Good fuse taps have a fuse on the tap. They are inexpensive and easy to order from Amazon.

pilut2 07-05-2017 07:24 AM

My car must be unique. No DRL fog light hack needed. I replaced my fog light bulbs with led's and just leave my fog lights switched on. They turn on when the key is turned on, and off when the car is shut off. They also switch off when my high beams are on.

redciv1 07-05-2017 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anker (Post 543015)
Not a good idea. If you make the connection on one fuse leg the fog leg connection will be unfused and if do it on the other the fuse risks being overloaded when you turn the headlights on. Good fuse taps have a fuse on the tap. They are inexpensive and easy to order from Amazon.

Good info Anker

JayG 07-05-2017 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pilut2 (Post 543030)
My car must be unique. No DRL fog light hack needed. I replaced my fog light bulbs with led's and just leave my fog lights switched on. They turn on when the key is turned on, and off when the car is shut off. They also switch off when my high beams are on.

In Canada, the cars have DRL from the factory

BruceH 07-05-2017 02:17 PM

I finally got around to doing mine. I bought the fuse taps at Autozone for all of $1.99, I already had some wire. I have no idea why it took me so long, it works great!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1499293007.jpg

particlewave 07-05-2017 02:31 PM

Looks great with those headlights, Bruce! :cool:
I've gotta say, with all of the headlights that I built, I've always liked the look of yours the best. They're so clear and clean, and go really well with your car color. ;)

BruceH 07-05-2017 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave (Post 543093)
Looks great with those headlights, Bruce! :cool:
I've gotta say, with all of the headlights that I built, I've always liked the look of yours the best. They're so clear and clean, and go really well with your car color. ;)

Thanks Charles! I'm very happy as well, you and Fred make a great team :cheers:

BruceH 07-05-2017 07:21 PM

Some more pics :D

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1499311137.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1499311152.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1499311172.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1499311185.jpg


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