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I have a question regarding the size of the holes.
Now i have around ½", if i go up to 1" does it affect the rpm range where i can hear it? |
Did the crios muffler mod to my '02 2.7 today. I used a long 3/8" drill bit for initial hole and then used a carbide die grinder bit welded to an 8" piece of 1/4"dia bar stock that would fit my air die grinder. Made an oval about 1/2" X 3/4". I really like the mild sound difference plus I do think it added just a touch to the bottom end to mid range. thanks crios....
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Another happy camper! Thanks crios!!
I did the drill mod on my 2003 Boxster and ended up using a 7/8" drill bit as final hole size. I did not have a 1/2" for my heavy drill. Worked as desired with a nice low growl at low RPM"s but no noticeable droning or noise increase at cruise RPM with the top up. I did have to use a cold chisel to start the hole for the drilling and had to step up drill size to make the final hole. Changed exhaust tips to the two round S type to go with the new sound. Great Mod!! :cheers: |
I know this is an older thread, but I just picked up a 98 2.5L and immediately removed the snorkel and put two ovalized 9/16" holes in the internal muffler pipes as described here. So glad I did. The muffler modification is subtle, mainly deeper and louder right off idle. The snorkel removal is a must. 5000rpm and up is spine tingling now.
I will probably be doing the Pedro's/PSE partial muffler bypass in the near future to give a little more exhaust noise. |
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Another Happy User!! Thanks Crios!
It just took me 5 min to make the holes in a '99 2.5 Boxster, and the change is great! I made two holes of 1/2 and the sound is great at idle, a lot better than stock! Did have a chance to try it on the road but it doesn't seem to be any ressonance. I'm glad i did it! :) |
I did 1" holes. :)
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1 inch is quite a big hole. How does it sound?
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I took my Toyo Sports exhaust off and put the std exhaust back on - resonance took the pleasure out of driving the car. It's a tiptronic and the box generally keeps the revs in the 2000rpm range until you are over 60mph, or you keep it in manual mode. Pity really as there was a noticeable increase in performance with the sports exhaust and it sounded good, when it wasn't resonating!
I've now drilled 2 x 10mm Crios holes in the pipes (thought I would start small). Definite increase in sound when idling but nothing really at higher revs - as you would expect. Think I'll take it up to 1/2 inch (13mm) and see how that changes things. I'll also record the sound and post it in case anyone wants to see the difference - unfortunately don't have a recording of how it was originally. |
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Slate - I put this off for the same reason. I finally wound up doing 9/16" holes about 10 months ago. The sound at idle is much deeper and throatier, and a general increase in roar over the RPM range with zero noticeable resonance. Overall, I'm very happy with the sound. I'm even considering enlarging the holes to 1" to get just a little more growl out of it.
I don't think there's much chance of getting a lot of resonance or that annoying "coffee can muffler" racket since you're only bypassing one chamber ;) |
1" sounds glorious. No drone or resonance at all. I may take the car out tomorrow. I'll try and post a video. Stay tuned.
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OK - here is the sound of the exhaust with 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm holes. Subtle difference in sound - the 10mm is a little more raspy and the 15mm a slightly deeper note. If you go larger I would image it will get even deeper.
Porsche Boxster 986 Crios Mod - YouTube |
Based on the great results I had when I installed the 2nd cat delete pipes on my top speed muffler, im thinking that doing the 2nd cat delete pipes with the stock muffler may also produce the great improvement in exhaust tone and throttle responsiveness.
Has anyone tried that? |
chipmunk, looks like your AOS is going bad.
Thanks for doing the controlled test. It's great to have direct comparison data like that! |
:) That's steam - it was less than 2 degrees outside. Although that said, it did smoke when I started it up for a run earlier in the day and I have started to wonder about the AOS - from what I can see it's an easy enough job to do so may give it a go myself.
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That sounds pretty good - I am sure that you can hear it when you open up on the road too.
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Yea, you hear it, but no drone at all.
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I'm a little confused as to why the holes need to be at such a steep angle where lots of people are having trouble getting the hole started. Isn't any place you can reach on that pipe still in the same chamber and would produce essentially the same results? Why not shoot for deeper in the pipe where the angle is much shallower and easier for the drill to start?
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1390406987.jpg |
I see no reason why you can't drill anywhere along the pipe, as long as you are still within the middle compartment and your drill bit is long enough. I drilled roughly in the middle of the bend. I first created a notch with a screwdriver and then used a 6mm drill and worked up.
For info, I have just ordered 20mm and 25mm drill bits and will be amending my video so you can compare the difference in sound between the smaller (10mm, 13mm, 15mm) and the bigger holes. |
Guys,
I'm sure it sounds different, possibly better than stock. But i don't see that you are bypassing any chambers at all. I think the flow of the arrows is wrong on that picture. Starting on the left (red arrow) the gasses enter here. They collect and equalize in the second chamber (when counting from left to right). When the pressure is sufficient, they progress - still from left to right - to the fifth chamber on the far right. The final journey is from the collection chamber on the far right round the curved pipe and out. Yes, there is some over-spill equalization in the center chamber but its not the primary route as gases in there eventually get pushed back to the left or right. So why would you want to drill a hole in the pipe which is actually helping the exhaust gasses out (i.e.) the curved pipe. Surely doing this hinders the flow of the gas by allowing it to escape into the center chamber and hence hinder the expulsion. Well.....that's how i see it anyway. ha ha. But if you like the sound....fair enough. |
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I did look when my box was off but didn't pay that much attention. I am pretty sure though that the inlet pipe (from the left and rights sides) goes right through i.e. no blockages - maybe someone with a box off can confirm this.
If so, then by drilling a hole on the bend you are allowing gas that diffuses out in the middle chamber to exit directly, rather than first being routed to the 5th chamber and then out. Wouldn't make a huge difference to anything but enough to change the exhaust note. |
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The arrow diagram posted earlier in this thread is incorrect and misleading. This is what's happening:
A) Following the left side (yellow), exhaust enters chamber 2 (with slight bleed off to chamber 1 for mixing with right side (red) exhaust through small holes in inlet pipe). From chamber 2, it is split and goes to chamber 5 and center chamber 3 where it is mixed with the right side (red) exhaust and dumped back into chambers 2 and 4. B) From chamber 2, exhaust goes to chamber 5. In chamber 5, exhaust is again mixed with right side (red) exhaust, but to a lesser degree than the center chamber (see small holes in inlet pipe). C) Chamber 5 exits directly to exhaust tip ;) So, by drilling holes in the exit pipe, you are creating flow from the center mixing chamber directly to exit, essentially creating a small bypass directly from inlet to exit with only the center chamber pipe working as a slight flow restrictor/baffle (similar to the PSE, IIRC...except that the PSE uses an exterior pipe to do the same thing). |
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Here you can see the center chamber and baffle pipe more clearly. That pipe connects chambers 2 and 4 and diffuses into chamber 3.
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And after drilling...
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That makes sense. Nice diagram :)
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Let me know if your able to achieve the angle with a drill bit to get to that pipe. I haven't tried but I will once it's not 10degrees out.
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I may have missed it, but I notice this mod addresses S models, it there a mod like this just for the 986 Base? My apologies if this was covered and I skipped over it
Thanks |
Not sure, but it worked on my '99 base; increased low growl and I swear the throttle response increased. Seems to rev up and drop back to idle a bit quicker.
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PartWave and everyone else,
do I follow the same directions for drilling, I presume two holes, just like the S instructions?I've never really looked inside the tailpipe to see if the outlet consists of two holes, just like the S model. You didn't notice any loss of power, low end or top end? And I presume no drone Any downside to doing this modification? I've desnorkeled the 986 already but really didn't notice in appreciable sound change or performance change. Thanks for the help |
I followed the instructions here and looking up my tailpipe, it looked the same as the pictures here.
If anything, I thought I felt a slight increase in power, but that was probably due to the fact that I love getting on the throttle even more now because of the awesome sound ;) Zero increase in drone and no annoying "coffee can muffler" ping/rattle. Excellent sound :D I really noticed an increase in throttle response in the 3000-5500 rpm range. I have no regrets and even want to increase my holes from 9/16" to 3/4" or more. |
I did it. 98 base. 1/2 inch hole on each side. Sounds better for sure. No drone at all. I'm thinking of going bigger as well.
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Thanks guys, I know what I'll be doing Saturday morning. Guess I'll go 3/4" and see what happens.
Also going to be applying VHT Nite Shades to my taillights as well. Should sound cool and look cool in the rear end by the end of this weekend |
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One tip: I had a heck of a time with the drill bit side-slipping on me, so after fighting it for 10-15 minutes, I made this out of an old 10" long bolt hole alignment tool. You can get these at a hardware store for about $5.
Worked like a charm! A couple of light taps with a hammer to get it to bite into the curve, then a few good whacks to drive it through. Took all of 30 seconds per side. This makes drilling 10 times easier ;) Making the point offset to one side helps a ton with getting it to bite on an angle like in the pipe. (My wonderful MSPaint work in the last pic is a bit deceptive as there aren't any "flat" spots accessible from the tailpipe. All you can see through the tailpipe is curve. ;) ) |
So what would happen if the slight bleed holes in chamber 1 and chamber 5 get opened up more? In first order this will let more of the primary exhaust go straight out of the tail pipes. This is almost the same as the exhaust bypass pipes on the PSE. The big difference is that more of the primary exhaust left (yellow) is going to 'hit' the primary exhaust from the right (red). This could lead to these two exhaust sources starting to 'beat' against each other, i.e. drone.
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So how long does the drill bit need to penetrate? I'm confused are we talking about just breaking thru the pipe or are we talking about 2 inches, 3 inches, 4 inches or deeper?
Thanks for the help |
Just break through the pipe, no further ;)
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