Noob Question
 

Hello all,

I just bought a 2000 Boxster about 3 weeks ago and I'm trying to figure out plans for my car. My main purpose for this car is AutoX and DE - just trying to become a better driver with a goal of w2w racing one day. But first, I have to do some preventative maintenance from the PPI list.

I think I want to build the car more towards DE/TT but I am most likely going to participate in a lot of autocross as well. My experience so far is only autocross in my GTI, but have never been to a track day.

My first preventative maintenance item is to change out to the brake hoses + fluid. I'm trying to decide between ATE rubber hoses or stainless steel hoses from Pelican Parts.

My biggest question is, is it worth it to try and stay in stock class for autocross and get the rubber hoses? I will be primarily focused on driver mod for a while, but also want to make sure my car can handle the track duty. Is the 2.7 986 even competitive enough in street class to worry about?

I know that installing an underdrive pulley is recommended for track and will take me out of stock class at autox. And if that is the case, should I just say screw it, get SS lines since I will be thrown out of street class when I put in the reliability mods for DE anyways?

The most important part of your car for AX is the rubber. Get a set of Bridgestone RE 71-R tires and go for it.

Would you recommend to try and stay in stock class? Or just say screw it and go to STR/STX?

I'm running all new rubber lines, i think ATE brand as well, i like em. :)

To me, the brake lines aren't an issue. I agree with Anker - use a staggered set of 18's with RE71s. I would highly recommend GT3 front lower control arms - because with the lack of camber you are only using 1/3 of the tire, particularly if you intend to hit the track. I'm not sure if that bumps you out of STR, but if it does, who cares? If you are using AutoX as an entry point to improve driving, classing is somewhat irrelevant.

This is the first year for me Autocrossing my '01 base, and I've described all I've done to the car (plus an alignment), and it is incredibly competitive. Maybe not with a prepped ND Miata or S2000, but among Porsches it does well.

Thanks for the reply! I thought pretty hard about it and came to not care about the stock classing anymore. Especially since I'm getting ready to do a preventative waterpump job and plan to throw an underdrive pulley in right away anyways. And it opens me up to other simple upgrades like Ben's short shifter.

And why 18's instead of 17's? Even if I have a 2.7, I was thinking of replicating the BSX set up.

I'm not familiar with BSX setup. I say 18s to start because RE71s fit stock size. If you go with a square or squarish setup, 17s may be the way to go.

BSX is pretty much Spec Boxster set up while remaining street legal. Since my car isn't eligible as a Spec Boxster, I could be flexible with the modifications. I was using the Spec Boxster build as a guideline.

I'll consider the RE71R if I come across some nice 18s at a good price. What do you think the comparable 17 tires are?

Also, do you recommend going for the GT3 LCA before I take it to my first HPDE? Or do you think my tires would be okay for a little while if I just max out the negative camber on the stock set up? The LCAs are a little pricey, but I can justify the cost later on if it saves me money on tires.

You may find a size for RE71s that'll work on stock 17's. But stock 17" front is 205 v 225 for 18s. Some people run a square 17" setup but I think to balance the car properly you'd need some sway bar changes too. Another really good AutoX tire is the Rival S 1.5. (not a lot of size options), And the new Azenis RT615+ seem like a good value. www.WillTheyFit.com is a good resource for comparing different size wheels and tires.

You should be able to find some used OEM 18s for $500+/-

As for the GT3 LCAs, they make a big difference but at a sizable cost. I autoX'd 3 times without them and looked at the shoulder wear then pulled the trigger. I'm sure you'd be fine for a while without them. But start saving and searching for a set to pop up.

Hope my $0.02 helps.

If you use 17" wheels, the tires are much cheaper. That's why most people who do track events use them.

I run 225/45-17 on my stock 17" wheels, so that is the pretty much the same amount of rubber as the 225 on 18's.

No, GT-3 LCA's are definitely not required. It will typically take a little time for you to learn to drive at the limit to the extent that you'll need the GT3 LCA's. The obvious sign that you need more camber is when the outside 1/3 of the tire is done and the inside 1/3 of the tire still looks fine.


Yes, this will help turn in and cornering grip and the stock adjustment is small enough that it won't negatively affect tire wear on the street too badly.


Eventually, it will be a tradeoff: maximizing corner performance vs track tire wear vs street tire wear.

Unfortunately there isn't any free lunch so you'll have to find the best compromise for your driving objectives (both on and off track) and budget.

I run 225 fronts on 18" 205 rims. Works like a champ and has the added advantage of making the stock setup less staggered. It helps reduce understeering. After I switched to this setup the main issue is not enough negative camber, especially on track, but also on AX. Since camber has nothing to do with rims and tires that's my next point of attack.